New RACING short shifter from Individual Racing Parts

[redlined600]

Originally Posted by Tor

I am still not 100% sure about what the spring on the CAE shifter does, so take this with a grain of salt. I suppose it is spring loaded back to neutral and hence you need to overcome the spring force getting it into gear. I also suppose the purpose is for the spring is to assist getting it out of gear faster and maybe artificially create more force on the shifter so it feels more springy during the shifts and encourages to make the shift more forcefully.

The springs that counts are those centering the shifter side to side (so you don't e.g. go into 5th instead of 3rd). These springs are located inside the gearbox itself and can be upgraded with e.g. MTec springs. I did this in combination with the IRP shifter and would highly recommend doing so.
.

What you state in your second paragraph is what the spring on the cae shifter does, keep it centered or add force side to side. It's a torsion spring.

[civicdrivr]

I had the Billet Pro Shop shifter in my car, and the IRP (installed last night) requires less effort than that. It feels almost stock, just...better.

I do have the rattle though, and it seems to be coming from the reverse lock out button. If I lightly press the button, the noise will cease. I'm trying to figure out a way to isolate it a bit better. Aside from that, I love the shifter. It feels great and the height is perfect for me.

Quick note for others - if you have a one piece driveshaft, you'll need to remove it to make the installation easier. I managed to get the old upper support bracket out of the tunnel by lowering the transmission. But when it came time to attach the shift rod to the shifter, there wasn't enough room in the tunnel to get pliers in there to slide the shift rod onto the shifter. Pulling the driveshaft gave me the room to do it easily.

[Tor]

Originally Posted by redlined600

What you state in your second paragraph is what the spring on the cae shifter does, keep it centered or add force side to side. It's a torsion spring.

Thanks for clearing that up. I thought the spring on the CAE shifter helped make faster shifts from e.g. 3rd to 4th. In that case, the up/down forces should be exactly the same with the CAE and IRP? That takes away what I thought was the advantage of the CAE shifter.

As for side to side, I wouldn't want any more spring force than what MTec springs already provide. The IRP shifter centers very fast and accurately with the MTec springs. Even with the stock springs, it centered more than sufficiently that you wouldn't miss a gate. So what's the point of making an even greater barrier to go into 2nd or 5th?

Of course, you save the bother of installing the MTec springs, but they are around €$30 and take 10 mins to change when you are down there anyway.

[stevesnj]

On the want list. Very nice shifter

[FT-86 SpeedFactory]

Super short comparison of OEM vs. IRP in our new 86. Full install coming soon on our Youtube channel.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BOqRnWPA...86speedfactory

[civicdrivr]

Has anyone been able to fix the rattle?

[Tor]

Originally Posted by civicdrivr

Has anyone been able to fix the rattle?

See the video in post 61: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...0&postcount=61. As you can see my rattle is gone without the aluminum plate covering the hole in the transmission tunnel. Some kind of vibrations occurs between the rubber boot, aluminum plate, and shifter (on my car at least). Are you sure yours come from the reverse lock out and not from the base of the shifter? It can be hard to pinpoint the origins of vibrations.

I changed the rubber boot with a softer one and it improved a lot. I am not driving the car at the moment (winter, salty roads), but the next thing I'll do will be to change the aluminum plate out with a piece of carbon. I haven't been in a rush to do so as it is much less noticeable now and only at high rpm now that it doesn't bother me that much.

If yours really originate in the reverse lock out mechanism, maybe an idea could be to tighten the wire a notch? Didn't look if it's feasible, but just an idea.

A good thing is that after first install everything can be done from inside the car. I had the shifter out at least 10 times, doing diagnostics. Now that I'm in practice I can have the shifter out and back in, in 5 mins, not counting removing the center console.

[civicdrivr]

Originally Posted by Tor

See the video in post 61: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...0&postcount=61. As you can see my rattle is gone without the aluminum plate covering the hole in the transmission tunnel. Some kind of vibrations occurs between the rubber boot, aluminum plate, and shifter (on my car at least). Are you sure yours come from the reverse lock out and not from the base of the shifter? It can be hard to pinpoint the origins of vibrations.

I changed the rubber boot with a softer one and it improved a lot. I am not driving the car at the moment (winter, salty roads), but the next thing I'll do will be to change the aluminum plate out with a piece of carbon. I haven't been in a rush to do so as it is much less noticeable now and only at high rpm now that it doesn't bother me that much.

If yours really originate in the reverse lock out mechanism, maybe an idea could be to tighten the wire a notch? Didn't look if it's feasible, but just an idea.

A good thing is that after first install everything can be done from inside the car. I had the shifter out at least 10 times, doing diagnostics. Now that I'm in practice I can have the shifter out and back in, in 5 mins, not counting removing the center console.

Yeah, mine is definitely from the reverse lock out button. I'll poke around a bit, but like you, my car is living in the garage due to winter.

Thanks for your response!

[Tor]

I have been working on mine, and now the center console was out again, I made this short video demonstrating the centering force with the upgraded gearbox springs.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TCS7pO55kwE"]IRP Germany shifter for the GT86/BRZ/FR-S - centering spring force - YouTube[/ame]

[TeutonicShift89]

It makes me happy knowing there is someone as conscientious and yet with such childlike enthusiasm making videos like this for our car parts perhaps it's the charm of Germanic thoroughness to a lazy American 👍👏🏻🙏


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[Tor]

Originally Posted by TeutonicShift89

It makes me happy knowing there is someone as conscientious and yet with such childlike enthusiasm making videos like this for our car parts perhaps it's the charm of Germanic thoroughness to a lazy American 👍👏🏻🙏

Danish child, in Germany for 8 years now. There are too many great racetracks here, all within 2 hours reach (Nürburgring, Spa, Zolder). I'll probably never escape.

[TeutonicShift89]

Well thanks to this thread I just ordered mine today! 🤣


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[TeutonicShift89]

Originally Posted by Tor

See the video in post 61: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...0&postcount=61.

I changed the rubber boot with a softer one and it improved a lot.

What did you use / where did you source the rubber?

I just installed mine and there is a highly annoying rattle starting around 2500 rpm, which is cruising speed, and only gets louder as you accelerate.

Sounds like the reverse lock out initially but when you grab the lever you can feel the rattle is Coming from the base.

It's bad enough I'm not sure I'll be able to deal with it 😱



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[Tor]

Originally Posted by TeutonicShift89

What did you use / where did you source the rubber?

I just installed mine and there is a highly annoying rattle starting around 2500 rpm, which is cruising speed, and only gets louder as you accelerate.

Sounds like the reverse lock out initially but when you grab the lever you can feel the rattle is Coming from the base.

It's bad enough I'm not sure I'll be able to deal with it 😱



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This one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-Shifter-B...-/172251473979

You need to cut it a bit to get it to fit (there is an internal part that need to be removed. Also, you need to cut down the boot that came with the shifter.

That way the ebay boot rests on the remains of the IRP boot, wherein it becomes two piece.

Two more things to check/do, before bothering with the boot:
- That there is no slack in the reverse cable (losen the screw on the base, and pull it tight to take up any slack that could cause the button to vibrate).
- Wrap a thin piece of foam around the cable where it passes through the lever. So that the cable won't vibrate against the handle.