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Old 09-06-2019, 10:00 AM   #15
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Solid pick up and good looking car! Have fun.
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Old 09-06-2019, 12:41 PM   #16
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Out and about this afternoon, what do I see!! Only a Lava MK1 MR2.. sadly it was on the highway and I was driving so couldn't take a picture!! @Tcoat would love it!!
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Old 09-06-2019, 01:01 PM   #17
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Out and about this afternoon, what do I see!! Only a Lava MK1 MR2.. sadly it was on the highway and I was driving so couldn't take a picture!! @Tcoat would love it!!
Completely forgot they had an Orange color in the later model years. Found this photo online.

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Old 09-06-2019, 01:07 PM   #18
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Huh so my photo isn't showing, here's a link:
Finally got around to looking at this on my phone, very nice! If I could have picked that up for $1500, I would have been all over it.

Interesting that the spoiler is body matched. I thought in '85 they were all black. I know mine was, and the couple of others I knew that had a red one were black. I know most the other models were paint matched though so maybe it was either an option, or just the early ones that had the black tail.
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Old 09-06-2019, 01:40 PM   #19
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Speaking of MK1 MR2, here is one in desperate need of rescuing on eBay. It has a lead-acid battery electric conversion done to it....
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Old 09-06-2019, 10:04 PM   #20
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Oregon...can you do a swap?

A 1NZ-FE is a direct fit for the transmission in the AW.
Actually, I just remembered the 2ZR-FE might fit that transmission too, if you want easier power. I think the EC60 and C160/C52 bellhousings are the same. You might even be able to swap the EC60 over.

The 2ZR-FE has pretty solid heads compared to the 1ZZ-FE, I think it's a solid 160hp with bolt-ons. It weighs about 65lbs more than the 1NZ and 30lbs more than the 1ZZ, but still 90lbs less than the 4A-GE.

A 1NZ would be 150lbs lighter, which is not a small amount.
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Old 09-07-2019, 12:28 AM   #21
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I'm definitely open to doing a swap but I would like to avoid an excess amount of fab work/welding (like destroying the trunk). I haven't looked into doing either of those engines though, I'll have to check em out. Any thoughts on those vs a 20v? For now, I'll be pretty much refreshing the whole suspension and fixing the little things wrong with it, autocross it a few times to really learn the car, then add power. And fine tcoat, I won't strip it out if it would hurt you lol.
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Old 09-07-2019, 01:32 AM   #22
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I'm definitely open to doing a swap but I would like to avoid an excess amount of fab work/welding (like destroying the trunk). I haven't looked into doing either of those engines though, I'll have to check em out. Any thoughts on those vs a 20v? For now, I'll be pretty much refreshing the whole suspension and fixing the little things wrong with it, autocross it a few times to really learn the car, then add power. And fine tcoat, I won't strip it out if it would hurt you lol.
I'm pretty sure the 1NZ should drop straight in more or less (I'm guessing it needs one custom motor mount and 100 bucks worth of muffler shop work to join up the exhaust). Someone on ecomodder I think used a 1NZ-FXE, and it was easy, they wanted it to be as cheap of a swap as possible. https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthre...fxe-27266.html

2ZR may or may not take more work, I'm not sure, and I don't know if it's ever been done. Again I believe it has the same bellhousing, but since it's bulkier you might have clearance problems.

As for how it compares:
-Gas mileage: Either newer motor beats the 20v 4A by a long shot
-Replacement cost: Either newer motor can be found for a few hundred bucks used in stock form, so you have a few hundred bucks left to upgrade it
-Power: 2ZR will match the silvertop/blacktop with a little work, 1NZ is a tiny bit weaker than a redtop.

2ZR will blow the doors off any unmodified 4A-GE. You can spend a little money to drop in a new valvetrain and rev it higher with a milled head for increased comprssion, and I think it'll get you around 170bhp with way more low end and mid range.

1NZ is going to be weaker, but you'll be shedding 5% of the car's mass, which makes the peak power comparable to 115hp with a 4A-GE.

A really cheap way to instantly gain power is to get a Prius block (13:1 compression) and toss on the normal FE head, or just the intake cam and valve springs. Judging from pictures, despite the Prius having a lower rev limit, the rods look the same.

Might want to take some material out of the pistons since 13:1 is pretty aggressive even with 93 octane fuel. It would take 1.6cc to get it down to 12.3, which I think should be fine. That would probably get you to 115hp with nothing else. Might even be able to DIY this with a really big drill press lol.

Some guy on Spyderchat said he ran the 1NZ-FE completely stock at 8000rpm with a turbo, and eventually snapped a rod making about 2x stock power, using an overclocked stock 1ZZ-FE ECU, if that's reassuring.
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Old 09-07-2019, 06:53 AM   #23
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The 1nz is a great engine, and is in every cheap car from a Yaris to most of the Scion's. They can hold power and adding power to them is easy and well known. There were a couple of 500 hp Yaris in Thailand, and adding a turbo and getting 300 wasn't too hard.

Quote:
Originally Posted by serialk11r View Post
I'm pretty sure the 1NZ should drop straight in more or less (I'm guessing it needs one custom motor mount and 100 bucks worth of muffler shop work to join up the exhaust). Someone on ecomodder I think used a 1NZ-FXE, and it was easy, they wanted it to be as cheap of a swap as possible. https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthre...fxe-27266.html

2ZR may or may not take more work, I'm not sure, and I don't know if it's ever been done. Again I believe it has the same bellhousing, but since it's bulkier you might have clearance problems.

As for how it compares:
-Gas mileage: Either newer motor beats the 20v 4A by a long shot
-Replacement cost: Either newer motor can be found for a few hundred bucks used in stock form, so you have a few hundred bucks left to upgrade it
-Power: 2ZR will match the silvertop/blacktop with a little work, 1NZ is a tiny bit weaker than a redtop.

2ZR will blow the doors off any unmodified 4A-GE. You can spend a little money to drop in a new valvetrain and rev it higher with a milled head for increased comprssion, and I think it'll get you around 170bhp with way more low end and mid range.

1NZ is going to be weaker, but you'll be shedding 5% of the car's mass, which makes the peak power comparable to 115hp with a 4A-GE.

A really cheap way to instantly gain power is to get a Prius block (13:1 compression) and toss on the normal FE head, or just the intake cam and valve springs. Judging from pictures, despite the Prius having a lower rev limit, the rods look the same.

Might want to take some material out of the pistons since 13:1 is pretty aggressive even with 93 octane fuel. It would take 1.6cc to get it down to 12.3, which I think should be fine. That would probably get you to 115hp with nothing else. Might even be able to DIY this with a really big drill press lol.

Some guy on Spyderchat said he ran the 1NZ-FE completely stock at 8000rpm with a turbo, and eventually snapped a rod making about 2x stock power, using an overclocked stock 1ZZ-FE ECU, if that's reassuring.
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