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Old 02-25-2014, 08:34 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by Fortis View Post
You could always drive around with a half tank of gas... A gallon of gas weighs ~6 lbs so that's close to a 40lb reduction in weight.
I can definitely feel a bit of difference driving around when the fuel tank is near empty vs. when its full. Losing ~100 lbs DOES make a difference, sprung or unsprung.
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Old 02-25-2014, 08:49 AM   #44
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Looks like no one has mentioned lightweight clutch/fly and driveshaft yet. You could save another 15-20 lbs. that way.
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Old 03-06-2014, 01:39 PM   #45
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Thats a good point. I understand the cabin noise will inevitably increase, but I don't think it will be horrible - especially since my music is up a decent level most of the time. The Sparco R100's say they can adjust, maybe you had another set in mind? Or maybe I am wrong that they can?

I appreciate your feedback and opinion - I was also wondering, you honestly think that the added horsepower from the OFT (+30hp give or take), complimented with 130 subtracted pounds will be un-noticeable?
I got my BRZ back in Jan 17th and I been just going to the mountain only. Not used it for DD. Yesterday I took out rear seat, seat back, and spare tire plus jack, tools. Filled up the gas full at Costco and got on I75!.Immediately I felt little bit more pick up from 5k to the redline(fyi temp was 50f/I weight 150ish)

Far as noise goes, traveling at 80mph I had my volume pretty high because of the noise coming from rear. I don't know if this will get better over the times but, not good for long trip. At higher volume you can still hear the roar from the back!

Ok, at the mountain my BRZ definitely slide her butt more easily then before. Keep in mind I used up1/4 tank of gas and temp was about 55f. Couldn't believe shaving off about 50lb can do such a change.

Oh, and when gas was down to 1/4 tank, car pulled harder from 4k to the redline. So 'YES' putting on a diet will make the car faster IMO. To keep weight distribution of the near 50/50 will be tricky.
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Old 03-06-2014, 03:21 PM   #46
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Interesting thread.

@Anthony Very cool you bought a new car just to gut it lol... that doesn't quite click with me but if you're going for 100% performance weight is one of the best areas. I was going to say, you'd *love* a lotus, then saw your sig - of course you would

I think 100-200 lbs. would be very noticeable, IMO. Even on the street. I know whenever I ride w/o passenger the car feels more nimble to me. Probably not a whole lot, but for the price OP is considering spending that's not bad.

Heck I can feel it if we get a whole load of groceries from like costco or something... I'd think 100-200 lbs. weight loss would be pretty noticeable for not a whole lot of dough.

I think a header + tune (OFT + OFH?) would be your best bet though, if you're looking for most performance/dollar. I already got the OFT, getting the header soon (waiting for 3rd party dynos/reviews), then I'll likely go tires & wheels, and some minor weight adjustments.

I also would be careful taking too much from the rear of the car, due to the factory weight distrubution. My goals for weight for this car are:

1) Lightweight battery ($150-300) -15 lbs.
2) Wheels ($500+) -20+ rotating lbs.
3) Header/exhaust bits -10 lbs? (not going muffler delete or lightest exhaust)
4) Brake kit -20+ lbs.

Overall though, not much, but there's more that can be done for sure and keep good DD-ability.

I'll also be taking out spare + tools for track, and likely run my gas low (planning on brining jugs of e85 with me eventually...). If I get really hardcore with the track (likely) I might even go full weight reduction, AC + stereo, seats, etc.

Not worrying about it, though. I think the most important things to get the most out of your car is to track it, and that's my main goal for now The rest I'll get to likely when the tires wear down, header when I get more used to my current power level, etc. etc. I think its better to just mod the car as you grow with it, after this tune I can see how dumping a bunch of money into F/I and related mods is a little silly if you can't utilize 100% of the cars performance (stock).

So, tl;dr get some seat time at an HPDE or autocross - not all that expensive (especially with these little cars), and something you'll remember for the rest of your life even if you just do it once!

I can't wait to go back again damnit. There's one this weekend I'll likely miss, but should be going to WSIR this month sometime and hopefully CVR with CSG Mike & crew next month
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Old 03-07-2014, 04:43 PM   #47
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Quote:
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185 lbs @ 6'2" ... I'd rather not weigh less and look like a rod. D:
LOL. I hear you. Same height, was 175 when a teenager. Haven't been under 220 in ten years, but always think about this as the smart weight reduction "mod"!
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Old 03-08-2014, 08:05 PM   #48
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I appreciated your post on the loss of weight for the brake kit! I didn't realize we could lose weight in this area, as I am rather new to compact cars/imports. Could you please let me know what kit you were referring too, as I may consider this also...


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Old 03-09-2014, 03:04 PM   #49
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Solid thread, car is meant to be modified and if you can save 100lbs go for it.
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Old 03-09-2014, 09:10 PM   #50
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A BBK is really making sense to solve the overtaxed stock setup and for weight savings. The problem is at what price? Most kits I've seen are budget busters so does someone know the weight savings and price for a 4-pot WRX conversion? What about rotors only and which would work best with stock calipers and my Carbotech track pads?
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Old 03-09-2014, 09:38 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkSunrise View Post
Looks like no one has mentioned lightweight clutch/fly and driveshaft yet. You could save another 15-20 lbs. that way.
Good point. Somewhat mixed revues for one-piece aluminum shafts due to NVH issues although the price is right. Too bad the quiet carbon shafts are $$$.

Why do you think they went to such trouble to design a stock two-piece shaft?
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Old 03-09-2014, 09:56 PM   #52
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Nothing wrong with a little weight reduction regardless of your goals for the car...
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Old 12-07-2014, 01:20 AM   #53
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Love the ideas... People have pretty much nailed it...
Wheels/tires
Header back, and a ti single for most weight savings. Battery. Aluminum Sumitomo (300zx/subie 4pots), battery, (probably the easiest,) spare removal if you have roadside, haha. FLYWHEEL/CLUTCH! (makes the car "feel" soooo much lighter, hard to quantify, may not be faster, but way more fun.) Driveshaft, pulleys. Suspension components- coils are light. Not sure about control arms etc, but any unsprung weight that can be removed will make a difference from a drivers POV. If you did that stuff bit by bit, all said and done, it would be an extremely nimble car, I own a Miata, and only imagine that responsiveness In the FRS chassis. If you are moving to body weight, focus on weight uo high, (not like there is any... CF roof saved like 2lbs I think) and at front/back extremes. You could do carbon doors, hood, fenders, trunk, but it'd cost a fortune, and you should be rocking a cage at that point, which would negate and weight savings. I say buy an NC Miata, strip it, moto east oem 2.5/cam swap it (210whp reliably attainable) remove airbags/top, cage it, light seats, center mount display, no radio, no A/C. Car couldn't be more than 2250, maybe less at that point with 200+ n/a Hp... Glorious.
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Old 12-07-2014, 05:13 PM   #54
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^^ But it would still be a Miata.....^^^


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Old 12-28-2014, 11:07 AM   #55
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Tinkering with the idea of removing the spare tire and jack kit.


Just wondering if anyone who has done that can tell me if it was noticeable or if they felt it was really a wasted effort and put it back in.
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Old 12-28-2014, 11:20 AM   #56
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Tinkering with the idea of removing the spare tire and jack kit.
Is it your daily driver? If so, what are you going to do if you get a flat? If not, what could it hurt?
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