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12-16-2013, 11:08 AM | #29 | |
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12-16-2013, 11:44 AM | #30 |
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Part of me has always wanted to yank the doors and drive around like a Jeep Wrangler. With a rollcage of course...
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12-16-2013, 12:23 PM | #31 |
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Like others have said the unsprung weight wont make as much of a difference. Get some light wheels (17 x 8 rpf1s with 225/45 would save some good weight) along with lighter brakes (either a bbk or 4 pot subaru calipers or just lighter rotors)
Headers are another good place to drop some weight in terms of exhaust, so getting lower weight & HP is win-win. |
12-16-2013, 12:37 PM | #32 |
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Oh, my ......
While weight reduction is an interesting topic, ...... if I wanted a small, fun car, that didn't have a "back seat" or a spare tire and was 250# lighter, I would have bought (kept) this car .... humfrz |
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12-16-2013, 01:13 PM | #33 | |
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I was all about weight when I first started on this forum and read too many autox builds. I mean Im looking at weights when I am upgrading, but its cost-benefit. If I can manage to shed some lbs great, but i really do have a budget. Lol |
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12-16-2013, 01:25 PM | #34 | ||
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12-16-2013, 01:39 PM | #35 |
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For me as a DD I'll probably do a
lightweight battery rear seat delete header back but keep stock muffler Remove spare and tools unless going on a trip My goals with my car is keep it looking stock (-ish, besides wheels maybe some springs) and not be obnoxious to drive. |
12-19-2013, 10:01 PM | #36 | |
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@Anthony
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@bestwheelbase can you do that? haha that would be fun, even just to try for the weekend. So many heads would turn haha @humfrz I mean yeah, that is true, but the FRS just looks way sexier. I have respect for the miata and love the car for what it is, but if I were to ever get one it would be as a side car that I romp around with while not giving two sh*ts and I would very much want it to look like and (in my dreams) have the same components as below haha! (greedy face) |
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12-20-2013, 07:42 AM | #37 |
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Here's my weight loss list. It's mild, but I want the car to pass the Girlfriend test, and I'll be getting performance elsewhere too.
Weight loss: Removed OEM Spare Tire - 26 lbs Removed OEM Trunk tools - 6 lbs Removed Owner's Manual - 3 lbs Removed washer fluid (1 gallon) - 8lbs Net loss = 43 lbs OEM Battery - 30 lbs Braille battery - 11 lbs Net loss = 19 lbs OEM Catback - 39 lbs HKS Hi Power catback -22lbs Net loss = 17 lbs Stock headers - 21 lbs JDL header -13 lbs Net loss = 8 lbs Over pipes & front pipes Net loss = 2 lbs (estimated) Total Net Weight Loss = 78 lbs Edit: just got my car corner weighted. Total weight with 180lbs of driver and half a tank of fuel is 1279.5 kg or 2820.8 lbs. So mch for armchair calculations! :P As far as weight reduction goes I like to try and balance it, meaning that I like to take weight off the front to equal whatever I remove elsewhere. Whenerver I don't lose weight I at least try to gain performance without adding weoght but it's a bit of a tradeoff. I added 18 inch OZ ultraleggeras and michelin PS2s. They weight about the same as the stock 17s net but get a LOT more grip out of them. I also added RS*R coilovers and an Alcon BBK. No idea what the actual weight savings is over stock but they've increased my car's handling and braking capabilities immensely. Then there's power to weight: Stock dyno baseline power = 161.5 whp Tuned dyno power = 189.5 whp Net power increase = 28 whp Guesstimated crank hp = 226 ish?
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2013 Toyota 86 GT M/T
2009 Renault Clio Sport R27 Team F1 Edition (sold) 1991 Mazda MX5 Miata (sold) 2007 Mitsubishi Evo 9 RS (sold) 2006 VW Golf R32 (sold) Last edited by ultra; 02-02-2014 at 04:51 PM. |
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02-22-2014, 07:24 PM | #38 |
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This is an interesting post! To keep the car reliable, good looking and pass the wife or girlfriend test is a challenge, a challenge. I want to increase the acceleration of my vehicle also, as it is 100% stock. From my personal experience some of the easiest and reliable ways is of course lose weight, which many people gave quality data and specs. I agree a tune is simple and can add power! A tune works...! Also, what I would like to do, as I don't drive faster that 75-80 in this, street car (maybe one day autocross) is to change the gear ratio. I have seen some gear sets for sale, I think their was a 4.56 to 4.67 ratio set out there. Gears can make the car accelerate faster at different speeds. I would like to see what 4:56 to 4.67 gears in my automatic with a tune would feel like with the spare out and a 1/8 or 1/4 tank of gas. If I had a manual I would research light weight flywheels and the carbon fiber or light weight drive shafts (rotational mass). I think these two things can make a difference you could feel and have measurable data.
Another way of "changing the gear ratio" would be the tire size. Though this isn't "orthodox" you could go to a 16" wheel, say a Motegi, lose 4-5lbs on the rim and then also lose the tire height, the stock tire is 24.7" and some of the 16" tires are 23.5" for a 215/45/16 or a 215/40/16 will weigh 19lbs (1lb lighter than the stock michelin and 3lbs lighter than the stock Bridgestone) have a tire height of 22.7". These are just a few ideas, as I know there are many ways to move, these are just my thoughts. This in combination with the gear change and tune would have my interest indeed! Staying with a light weight aftermarket wheel either 16x7 or 17x7 can save 20lbs of unsprung rotational mass. (watch the tire weight also..) A Light weight flywheel can save 10lbs and a light weight carbon fiber driveshaft is about 10-12lbs savings also. A total savings of 40lbs. "They" say this can be some of the best weight you can lose. Last edited by makesdrivingfunagain; 02-22-2014 at 11:46 PM. |
02-22-2014, 11:39 PM | #39 |
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Losing weight is not hard to do, but how to lose weight and maintain (or even improve) the practicality of the car for daily driving?
How about light weight anti-roll bars? I think all US models come with 18mm solid bar in the front and 13mm solid bar in the rear. Cusco offers a 16mm solid bar for the front and a 14mm hollow bar for the rear. Cusco said its light weight bars are just a stiff as OEM ones and I agree. That should reduce weight by another 2, 3 lb. Or lug-nuts? I use Muteki open-ended lug nuts for my Enkei RPF1's. The Muteki nuts only weigh 25g each, vs about 70g for the OEM nuts. Nearly 0.5lb (of unsprung weight) saved per wheel. Or light-weight pulleys A set of (5) light weight pulleys can save about 5lb. My wife drives the FT-86 to work daily. I changed the pulleys without telling her (she thought I was just going to change oil and the anti-roll bars.) Then she jumped up and down for almost a week asking what I did to her car. I finally told her. Then she told me the car felt so much faster and she was wondering what I did. Last edited by Yoniyama; 02-22-2014 at 11:50 PM. |
02-24-2014, 02:28 AM | #40 |
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You could always drive around with a half tank of gas... A gallon of gas weighs ~6 lbs so that's close to a 40lb reduction in weight.
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02-25-2014, 12:09 AM | #41 |
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Yeah with the spare and the tools out, and about 3 gallons of gas in the tank (fuel capacity 13.2gal tank) we can save a cheap and easy 90lbs or approximately 3 percent weight savings.
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02-25-2014, 12:15 AM | #42 |
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i feel like weight reduction for a daily car is kinda sucky. i feel like an aggressive alignment (and if you are really inclined, bushing and maybe springs) will make the car feel like its hundreds of pounds lighter.
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