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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous


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Old 09-01-2016, 05:14 PM   #15
Amaya
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My O2 sensor died this morning shortly before getting to the dyno so I didn't really make any changes while on the dyno. But now I've got numbers. 284whp and 230ft-lbs of torque on around 6 to 6.5psi. And that's with it spinning the wheels on the dyno below 3k rpm so it may actually be making more torque.

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Old 09-01-2016, 06:25 PM   #16
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good numbers man!
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Old 09-01-2016, 06:30 PM   #17
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Here it is compared to what it made NA

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Old 09-02-2016, 10:18 PM   #18
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16 days and almost 1500 miles of boost. Can you tell I spent a lot of time road tuning it? :P
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Old 09-03-2016, 02:41 PM   #19
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wow fantastic number for low boost!! although why is the graph looks weird?
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Old 09-03-2016, 03:09 PM   #20
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The weirdness is from wheel spin during the pulls. We ended spraying VHT on the tires and rollers and I had to not go full throttle right off the bat. The one line that is not weird is at part throttle for the lower rpms. The turbo spools so fast one of the guys thought something was wrong because my wastegate opens as soon as you punch it :P

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Old 09-03-2016, 03:22 PM   #21
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Ah, a properly sized turbo, something I wish alot more people knew how to do.
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Old 09-03-2016, 09:45 PM   #22
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GT28 Love!! The 2863 looks killer
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The Build Thread

GT28RS - eBoost2 - 3.91 Final Drive - Supra LSD
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Old 09-06-2016, 08:38 PM   #23
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So apparently my O2 sensor is fine, the fuse for the heater just blew when I was hooking up my flexfuel analyzer to the secondary O2 input. I had planned to use the flexfuel input on the dyno for "live" tuning. Which is another thing yall might be interested in seeing. My flexfuel analyzer:
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The sensor is a standard GM unit and outputs a frequency signal with the E% and fuel temp encoded into the one output. Because the standard inputs for our ECU are reading a 0-5V signal I'm using an arduino to interpret the sensor signal and convert it to an output that the ECU can easily use. As an added bonus I have programmed the arduino to allow me to manually take control of it's output signal. This means I have a driver/tuner controlled input that combined with Ecutek custom maps gives me a lot of options for adjusting stuff without reflashing constantly.

Also, in preparation for turning the boost up I have started working on extending the parameters that effect the boost controller. Using 3 custom maps I am adjusting target boost based on mapswitch mode, rpm, gear, and accelerator position.
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I'm going to try turning the boost up at higher rpms in the next day or two. Since torque was dropping off I should be able to get another 30 ft-lb at the top end without the clutch slipping. But I've got a FX350 clutch that will be going in so that will stop being a limiting factor. Probably be a couple months before that happens though.

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Old 09-06-2016, 09:02 PM   #24
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I'm also making some progress on scaling the MAF as until now I've been running fulltime speed density. But I think for this setup the MAF will be a more accurate and adaptable way to read air flow at lower rpm/engine load. I'll probably try to put together a more detailed post about my experiences with tuning the car, hopefully it will be of help to others and I can get some feedback from more experienced/knowledgeable folks on what I've done wrong and how I can do a better job.

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Old 09-07-2016, 05:54 AM   #25
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So I started turning the boost up tonight and got a little carried away. Now wheel spin in 3rd gear is an actual thing. And holy shit, it pulls HARD in 3rd! (Full boost only comes on in 3rd gear above 4500rpm)
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The lowest line is from an old tune (5-6psi) and it made around 265whp when I tested it on the dyno. The other pulls are from tonight and are approximately 8psi, 11psi, and 15psi. I had figured I would max out the clutch by the time I hit 10psi but it wasn't slipping so I kept on increasing the boost. Granted it does slip after a few 15psi pulls and you have to let it cool off or whatever to get it to hold again. Also my intake temps get pretty high at 15psi but hopefully a bigger heat exchanger will help with that.

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Old 09-08-2016, 08:42 AM   #26
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How do you think the water/air intercooler is working compared to air/air? Velox makes a billet clutch fork and pivot you might consider when upgrading your clutch. Many people have reported great improvements with it and imo they're pretty cheap. How much has your setup cost? Would it have been cheaper to just buy a kit? You obviously like tinkering so I can understand if you wanted to do all the work yourself
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Old 09-08-2016, 05:23 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ashikabi View Post
How do you think the water/air intercooler is working compared to air/air? Velox makes a billet clutch fork and pivot you might consider when upgrading your clutch. Many people have reported great improvements with it and imo they're pretty cheap. How much has your setup cost? Would it have been cheaper to just buy a kit? You obviously like tinkering so I can understand if you wanted to do all the work yourself
I can't really say for sure on the a2w setup yet, my intake temps get higher than I want but the heat exchanger I'm using appears to be way too small.
Depends on how you calculate it, you can get decent kits for less than I spent but for a comparable setup I think I've saved some money. Unless you factor in time spent on it. Basically for parts/materials I think it's about $5k currently. Add in another $1000 or so for tools and some parts that I ended up not needing/using. And maybe as much as $500 of miscellaneous expenses indirectly related to the project. Pricing out the kits/setups I wanted easily came out to $9k or more new so I think I came out ahead. I've also saved around $1k by buying some of the parts used.

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Old 09-08-2016, 05:27 PM   #28
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Oh, and quick update: not totally sure if I blew my engine yesterday. Last night I was totally sure it was fucked but after some sleep and taking some stuff apart it's looking like it may be fine and I've just got an issue with the crankcase ventilation. I'll update as I get into it more and check stuff out.

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