Changing oils by myself, are these a recommended jack+jack stand?

[btan219]

This would be my first time changing oils by myself and using after market jack and jack stands. 2015 BRZ

For jack stands, would the double locking Torin be preferred over the regular? Or is there a completely different brand you would recommend?

Torin- https://www.amazon.com/Torin-Big-Ste...pSrc=srch&th=1

Torin double locking- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00026Z3EA...ing=UTF8&psc=1

For the jack to lift up the front/back of car

Pro Lift F767- https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Lift-F-76...words=car+jack

Thank You

[cjd]

Not going to lie, I'd spring for the double locking... I'm always a wee bit paranoid. I've also been using the standard ones for years (as do so many other people), so that paranoia is likely unwarranted.

For the jack, do yourself a favor (though yes - it's a good deal more spendy) and get an aluminum jack (unless you never ever ever plan to take your car out where you might be wanting to change tires at the event... track, autocross, drifting, whatever.) I like the Arcan 2 ton, bit more reach than the 1.5 ton, though a bit heavier and more $: https://www.amazon.com/Arcan-ALJ2T-A...dp/B00132CGEW/

Also, just so it's out there. NEVER use the round/hexagon base jack stands.

[cnk]

If it's just for oil changes, get some Rhino ramps from Pep Boys.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

[Trueweltall]

I have ESCO 10498 Jack Stands and use a hockey puck with a line cut down it to place on the pinch weld, works like a charm. I went with these because they have a wider base, four leg jack stands have a narrow base and will do a tripod dance when you use them on a slight incline.

[gutbuster]

The ESCO stands are pricey but simple, robust and stable. I always grab them first. The new Harbor Freight Daytona jack is a beast with a big low to high range. A virtual copy of Snap-ons, coming out of the same factory. Its also a 100 lbs, so it aint portable.

[Trueweltall]

If you want to save some money the Arcan-XL20-Black-Jack is $140 and goes down to 3 1/2 inches, but it's only a 2 ton jack.

[btan219]

Originally Posted by Trueweltall

If you want to save some money the Arcan-XL20-Black-Jack is $140 and goes down to 3 1/2 inches, but it's only a 2 ton jack.

What's wrong with a 2 ton jack? Isn't that more than enough for our BRZ's?

Also, any recommendations on a jack that is <$100? The ones above suggested look great, but I'm not looking for the top of a line jack, it's a tool I will be using most likely 3 times a year at most. Just something to lift up my BRZ so I am able to put the jack stands in to change my engine, trans, and diff oils, rotate tires. My vehicle is only used as a daily driver for work, no racing or anything exciting lol

[ZionsWrath]

Trolly jacks are a waste of money imo, just go to harbor freight and pick a nice floor jack and a couple 2+ ton jack stands. You wont regret it.

[Spuds]

I have a pair of old inherited torrin dual lock stands holding up the front of the car right now lol. And a pair of cheap HF holding up the rear. They work fine. I'd spring for a set of 4 torrin dual locks at the 3 ton level (at least) if I were to do it over again. The torrins definitely have better welds on them, though the HF I'm sure will be fine. I believe in having the largest factor of safety when my life depends on it.

Floor jack isn't a life or death thing if you are doing things right. My recommendation is to get a low or ultralow profile steel jack from HF (I have the former) Yes it's heavy, but when are you really going to need to carry it around? Wish I had the ultralow profile, but mine was a gift so . Problem with the low profile one is it's about an inch too short lengthwise if you want to lower the car at all.

Edit, one more thing to note is that i believe stands are rated by the pair nowadays. I believe my torrins are old enough to be rated individually at 3 tons per stand, which would put them at the 6 ton set for sale today, but I'd have to go check. Not that it matters for an 86, but just a note to read the fine print before using them on anything else.

[Spuds]

Originally Posted by cjd

Also, just so it's out there. NEVER use the round/hexagon base jack stands.

Why not? They looked fine to me, but pricey.

[Brink]

Originally Posted by Spuds

I have a pair of old inherited torrin dual lock stands holding up the front of the car right now lol. And a pair of cheap HF holding up the rear. They work fine. I'd spring for a set of 4 torrin dual locks at the 3 ton level (at least) if I were to do it over again. The torrins definitely have better welds on them, though the HF I'm sure will be fine. I believe in having the largest factor of safety when my life depends on it.

Floor jack isn't a life or death thing if you are doing things right. My recommendation is to get a low or ultralow profile steel jack from HF (I have the former) Yes it's heavy, but when are you really going to need to carry it around? Wish I had the ultralow profile, but mine was a gift so . Problem with the low profile one is it's about an inch too short lengthwise if you want to lower the car at all.

Edit, one more thing to note is that i believe stands are rated by the pair nowadays. I believe my torrins are old enough to be rated individually at 3 tons per stand, which would put them at the 6 ton set for sale today, but I'd have to go check. Not that it matters for an 86, but just a note to read the fine print before using them on anything else.

Yeah, if it's just gonna sit in your garage and you're not taking it to the track there's no need for a particularly light jack. As long as the jack can handle the weight of the car, which most jacks probably can for a twin, just make sure it's something that will do what little it needs to do and can get under the car/reach the lift points. Just don't cheap out on jack stands, as many people have pointed out your life does depend on them. When I was looking at them everything was rated by the pair, rather than individually, but just be sure you know what you're getting in that regard.

[Spuds]

One more thing. I always lift with the e brake disengaged, which might be counterintuitive. Reason being that you get less front-back motion when lifting and lowering. The car is going to rotate about the rear hubs in either case, but if the wheel isn't forced to rotate with it (by ebrake) the car won't be forced to roll backwards or forwards. If you are on a level surface and use wheel chocks it's not going anywhere anyway.

I used to lift with ebrake on, but when I lowered the rear, the front jacks (the torrins) would tip up on the front two legs because of the car's motion. It was super sketchy so I stopped using the ebrake and it didn't happen again.

PS. Get a pair of cheap wheel chocks.

[Trueweltall]

Originally Posted by btan219

What's wrong with a 2 ton jack? Isn't that more than enough for our BRZ's?

Nothing wrong with it for the BRZ, was just comparing it to the other guy about the jack he posted.

[cjd]

Originally Posted by Spuds

Why not? They looked fine to me, but pricey.

Well, the round bases roll if not perfectly flat on the ground. So those are the really risky ones. If one ever starts to go it can bring the car down.

The flat base hexagon version is safer, but I'd never use it outside of a garage with a smooth floor... Defeating the purpose of getting such a light stand in the first place.