Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[Lunatic]

Originally Posted by Nitro22

I thought the issues were resolved with clamping down the evap solenoid? Is there a different problem or same symptoms?

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Yes I did too. But the car is still giving fault codes and running rough below 1500 rpm. I sent new data logs to Zach at Delicious and he aid there are still vacuum leaks.

[86fun]

Originally Posted by Lunatic

Yes I did too. But the car is still giving fault codes and running rough below 1500 rpm. I sent new data logs to Zach at Delicious and he aid there are still vacuum leaks.

My car did not have that problem exactly, but it did have low RPM issues. We changed the cam timing back to stock and most of the problems went away. Just a shot in the dark but maybe you guys could try it, it worked well on my car.... now I'm just hunting down a few more minor hesitation/smoothness issues...

[Lunatic]

Originally Posted by 86fun

My car did not have that problem exactly, but it did have low RPM issues. We changed the cam timing back to stock and most of the problems went away. Just a shot in the dark but maybe you guys could try it, it worked well on my car.... now I'm just hunting down a few more minor hesitation/smoothness issues...

Thanks for the suggestion, I'll pass this on to Zach Monday.

[86fun]

Originally Posted by Lunatic

Thanks for the suggestion, I'll pass this on to Zach Monday.

Not sure if you saw my experience with the messed up manifold gasket earlier in the thread, but I did a low pressure smoke test which did not reveal the damage. I had to take it off to find it. I only mention it because it is much more common to have the issue you have with an air leak. Is your idle stable? Does it cycle RPMs up and down a bit at idle? Are the fuel trims at idle making significant adjustments? These could all be about an air leak. I can't see how it would hurt to go back to stock cam timing just to test though. The cam timing issue had us all fooled into thinking it was an air leak on my install, as you can read in the previous posts... Good Luck!!!

[Lunatic]

Originally Posted by 86fun

Not sure if you saw my experience with the messed up manifold gasket earlier in the thread, but I did a low pressure smoke test which did not reveal the damage. I had to take it off to find it. I only mention it because it is much more common to have the issue you have with an air leak. Is your idle stable? Does it cycle RPMs up and down a bit at idle? Are the fuel trims at idle making significant adjustments? These could all be about an air leak. I can't see how it would hurt to go back to stock cam timing just to test though. The cam timing issue had us all fooled into thinking it was an air leak on my install, as you can read in the previous posts... Good Luck!!!

Thanks for your suggestion. Yes my rpm's cycle up and sown, with the air conditioning on in park they cycle from 500 to 1500 rpm's. I'm going to pass your suggestion on to Zach at Delicious tuning who did my tune.

Pulling the supercharger and checking the gaskets will probably be next.

[Paulo86]

I order a special tune from Delicious for 98ron (europe), flash my car, went to dyno and had perfect curve. I drive it everyday and everything is perfect. No low rpm probs or anything else. For me the tune from Delicious is delicious at 100%.

[Luftwaffel]

Ohi. Any lessons learned from install? Extra things not listed, what not to do, etc. Other than destroying my manifold gasket.

Planning on doing teardown on Wednesday night while I wait for the box to arrive, then buildup all day Thursday!

[Nitro22]

Originally Posted by Luftwaffel

Ohi. Any lessons learned from install? Extra things not listed, what not to do, etc. Other than destroying my manifold gasket.

Planning on doing teardown on Wednesday night while I wait for the box to arrive, then buildup all day Thursday!

1. Read the entire Instruction Manual Before Starting
   
2. Obtain a Subaru style Fuel Line Removal tool (generic ones may not work)
   
3. Obtain Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel
   
4. Obtain some silicone grease for rubber seals
   
5. Invest in a good hose clamp pliers or needle nose vise grips for hose clamps
   
6. Use a hose clamp on every "push on" hose connection
   

[Luftwaffel]

What do you mean Subaru style? I've seen the longer ones but the actual popper piece is shaped exactly the same as the cheap ones you can buy off the shelf at Autozone. They just look like they may have a bit more leverage. Are the hose clamps included or should I stock up?

[Nitro22]

Originally Posted by Luftwaffel

What do you mean Subaru style? I've seen the longer ones but the actual popper piece is shaped exactly the same as the cheap ones you can buy off the shelf at Autozone. They just look like they may have a bit more leverage. Are the hose clamps included or should I stock up?

A lot of generic fuel line tools cannot go deep enough to release the line. Company23 sells a good one. All of the hose clamps are provided in the kit.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Nitro22

A lot of generic fuel line tools cannot go deep enough to release the line. Company23 sells a good one. All of the hose clamps are provided in the kit.


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I've not yet seen that happen, but you do have to press them in ALL the way.

Fuel line tools are universal, but the nice metal 2-piece ones are much easier.

[Nitro22]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

I've not yet seen that happen, but you do have to press them in ALL the way.



Fuel line tools are universal, but the nice metal 2-piece ones are much easier.

Yeah, I tried a couple of universal brands from my local auto parts store with no success. I finally caved in and bought the Subaru specific removal tool and it released with ease.

http://www.company23.com/subarutools/545

[Sargy]

Originally Posted by Nitro22

Yeah, I tried a couple of universal brands from my local auto parts store with no success. I finally caved in and bought the Subaru specific removal tool and it released with ease.

http://www.company23.com/subarutools/545

2 zip ties cut down to the hard bits have worked wonders. no damage done to the clips


-Using the 2 zip ties, find the two tabs (180degrees apart) on the inside of yellow/green quick connector, and push the flat part of the zip ties in to raise the tabs.
-Pull the hose + quick connector out (yellow/green slides out with it)

[Freude am Fahren]