Front -3.5 camber needs plates and bolts to avoid End Link rub, correct?

[BrunoS72]

Originally Posted by solidONE

It also can depend on your ride height and driving habits. If you never trail brake or apply brakes very sparingly with the wheel turned or have close to stock ride height you can probably get away with more than -3* of front camber without ever having clearance issues with most of your camber from adjustable top plates.

If the opposite is true (lowered and aggressive trail braking into turns often) you'd probably be well served with most of your negative camber added at the knuckles without causing any tire to strut rubbing and the rest from the upper plates. If you're still making contact on the upper endlink you can try looking into some lower profile aftermarket end links and/or putting an indentation in the section of the frame making contact to avoid binding.

Thanks, I am going to split the camber between the plates and the bolts. The car has lowering springs and I take it to the local autox often.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by BrunoS72

Thanks, I am going to split the camber between the plates and the bolts. The car has lowering springs and I take it to the local autox often.

Max the bolts, that will increase end link and strut clearance to the fenderwell. The only reason not to is if you're concerned about wheel to strut clearance.

[Gearhead1]

Originally Posted by BrunoS72

On stock suspension to achieve -3.5 front camber, is it required to split the camber between camber plates and camber bolts to avoid End Link rubbing against the inside of the wheel well?


Thanks in advance for confirming this.


Another way to ask, on stock suspension how much negative camber is possible with Camber Plates without rubbing the End Links?

I have exactly that issue (Bilstein B6 struts). With the camber plates at the max negative position, the end link contacts the inside of the wheel well. I'm getting about 2.5 degrees from the camber plates and another 1 degree at the upright.
I swapped out the end links for studded rod ends from FK (FKB-CM12M, or FKB-CML12M for left hand thread). The rod ends have to tolerate a high misalignment angle because the upper mount is on the strut and rotates with it--and these just barely work.

I used the Velox plates. They raise the ride height almost 1/2" in the middle position and just under 3/8" at max negative. That forced me to swap the O.E. springs for lowering springs and then put top strut spacers (from Subtle Solutions) in the rear to level things out.

BTW, if you reverse the right and left positions of the Velox plates, you can gain 1.2 degrees of caster in the max position which I found very helpful.

[Gearhead1]

Originally Posted by Gearhead1

I have exactly that issue (Bilstein B6 struts). With the camber plates at the max negative position, the end link contacts the inside of the wheel well. I'm getting about 2.5 degrees from the camber plates and another 1 degree at the upright.
I swapped out the end links for studded rod ends from FK (FKB-CM12M, or FKB-CML12M for left hand thread). The rod ends have to tolerate a high misalignment angle because the upper mount is on the strut and rotates with it--and these just barely work.

I used the Velox plates. They raise the ride height almost 1/2" in the middle position and just under 3/8" at max negative. That forced me to swap the O.E. springs for lowering springs and then put top strut spacers (from Subtle Solutions) in the rear to level things out.

BTW, if you reverse the right and left positions of the Velox plates, you can gain 1.2 degrees of caster in the max position which I found very helpful.

I should have added that the rod end thread pitch did not match the Whiteline endlink barrels, so I needed to source different end links (turnbuckles).

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by BrunoS72

Thanks, I am going to split the camber between the plates and the bolts. The car has lowering springs and I take it to the local autox often.

NP. This interference between the link and the inner wheel well could have been avoided or reduced greatly if aftermarket suspension manufactures moved the upper end link mount on the strut just a quarter inch or so outward from the factory location.

With all the testing and fitting these guys do pre-production I'm surprised nobody has caught on. Instead, they stick to the factory dimensions even though it's obvious what the use and intents of these damper system buyers are. (performance driving, lowering and 'hellaslam' purposes)

So best bet with your current situation is, again, Max adjustment from the knuckles allowed then the rest of the negative adjustment from the tops.