DIY: Sound Generator Delete for $4

[Gunman]

Originally Posted by Cope52

4. It will RUIN the airflow, capping the side like that 3" in. The car will be jumpy on and off the throttle at traffic/back roads speeds
5. Possible power loss, if anything

Any evidence of either? I haven't noticed any change. I would think the smaller compressible volume in the, now short, sound tube, would aid air flow going to the engine. ie the amount of air in the sound tube is smaller, and less compressible, thus having less impact on the flow to the engine.

[SubieNubie]

Does this make a significant difference in noise? I've been thinking about doing this, specifically for highway driving. The cabin noise just seems to be brutal at anything about 70+.

[drewbot]

Originally Posted by SubieNubie

Does this make a significant difference in noise? I've been thinking about doing this, specifically for highway driving. The cabin noise just seems to be brutal at anything about 70+.

The cabin plug alone is worth it at those speeds

[Andrew025]

Originally Posted by Gunman

Any evidence of either?

No

[Cope52]

Originally Posted by SubieNubie

Does this make a significant difference in noise? I've been thinking about doing this, specifically for highway driving. The cabin noise just seems to be brutal at anything about 70+.

The motor is not loud on the highway, its all road noise. I wasted 8 bucks and an hour's time with this "mod". Trust me, 9 out of 10 who try this will end up switching back. The motor sounds more like a Porsche with the sound tube. Without it, its just generic Subaru. The engineers put it in for a reason.

[aznatama]

Personally, I'd rather not hear the engine unless I'm pushing it. But to each their own.

[B-R-Z]

Originally Posted by Cope52

The motor is not loud on the highway, its all road noise. I wasted 8 bucks and an hour's time with this "mod". Trust me, 9 out of 10 who try this will end up switching back. The motor sounds more like a Porsche with the sound tube. Without it, its just generic Subaru. The engineers put it in for a reason.

I'm not looking to argue or anything, but if you are looking to sound like a Porsche and have more pronounced motor noise inside of your cabin, why did you embark on this "mod" in the first place? The intention with this is to REDUCE motor noise inside of the cabin. What was your goal? If you were looking to reduce road noise and thought this was the cure then I can't take responsibility for your thought process.

[ericmpena]

I messed around with the TRD sound changer in the past. With the noise completely blocked the car does sound very generic and puny.

The completely open tube sounded dumb also. Nothing feels more embarrassing than hearing a loud roar in the cabin, but you're car is barely accelerating.

Ended up selling the TRD Sound Changer and put the stock pipe back on. IMO the stock pipe sounds perfectly balanced.

The only reason for this mod is if you absolutely need extra room under the hood. I think plugging the hole will give you just as good of results for 10 seconds of your time and zero cost.

[Gunman]

Anyone considered cutting the end off the OEM sound tube, leaving the small flange, so that it and the metal liner, stay in the rubber tube, to keep it from collapsing? I think I'll cut mine, and try it, probably not an issue anyway, but it would help retain the shape.

[B-R-Z]

Originally Posted by ericmpena

Ended up selling the TRD Sound Changer and put the stock pipe back on. IMO the stock pipe sounds perfectly balanced.

The only reason for this mod is if you absolutely need extra room under the hood. I think plugging the hole will give you just as good of results for 10 seconds of your time and zero cost.

If my car was 100% stock I might have kept it in, but now that I have an axleback and UEL header, I no longer need to force-feed the sound. It now sounds like cars I've had in the past where I hear it the old fashioned way--through the firewall, windows, etc.

Originally Posted by Gunman

Anyone considered cutting the end off the OEM sound tube, leaving the small flange, so that it and the metal liner, stay in the rubber tube, to keep it from collapsing? I think I'll cut mine, and try it, probably not an issue anyway, but it would help retain the shape.

I don't like to modify any stock parts just in case I need to go back to them in the future. I was going to see if I could find a piece of PVC to fit in there and have it cut to about 1" in length and insert that into the intake tube and then re-install the cap. I'm pretty sure it's fine as-is since it's rubber-like plastic on rubber so it's not going anywhere. But I prefer my stuff to be rock solid sturdy. I'm going to measure the opening and I'll post back if I come up with anything.

[Gunman]

Could take a piece of 1 1/4" sched. 40 PVC, and have it turned down, to 1.590", leaving a bit of a flange to keep it from going all the way in. I measure my oem piece at 1.590", and the pvc would be 1.660" OD.

I used to have that "go back to stock" mentality too, then I did shaved handles, emblems, suicide doors, frenched antenna, split tailgate, cut the roof out, etc., to my Ranger, and I got over it

Done, just needs some final sanding, and it should go in tomorrow.

[B-R-Z]

So you cut the mounting point off of the sound tube?

[Kimsey47]

Funny how people will argue about this topic... I say that folks should try this out in some form or fashion just to see what difference it makes. You may like it or may not, but it is a big enough difference to justify seeing what your own preference is.

I personally think the car is more refined without the sound being pumped into the cabin; however, I also have my Perrin exhaust to listen to. With an OEM exhaust you may find you desire the need for some sound.

So just try it!

[BirdTRD]

Originally Posted by Gunman

Anyone considered cutting the end off the OEM sound tube, leaving the small flange, so that it and the metal liner, stay in the rubber tube, to keep it from collapsing? I think I'll cut mine, and try it, probably not an issue anyway, but it would help retain the shape.

I took a 1" sched. 40 coupler which had an outside diameter of "just about right", cut it off at an angle, filled it full of Great Stuff expanding foam, trimmed it up then added a layer of black RTV to the surface that ended up in the intake pipe. I just didn't like the cavity that was there and was trying to smooth it out a bit. Who knows if it makes a difference, just made my OCD feel better! (held it in place with the 1-1/2" cap on the outside as well)