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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain. |
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12-08-2018, 03:28 PM | #1 |
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Transmission removal
Preparing for a TOB/clutch job.
Have read how to remove the trans - searching and reading threads here, etc. To save time vs. the book method of removing trim and going in from the top of the shifter to detach the shift linkage, I've seen some recommend just detaching the shifter from below, but that sounds like it involves cutting the rubber dust boot over this connection. Looking at images online before I start removing stuff... Any reason you couldn't remove the linkage from the forward point on the linkage vs. the aft one? Talking about the one just under the blue "miles" in this picture : Looks like the same sort of connection, but wouldn't involve cutting the boot or going in from the top (trim removal/etc). Enough room to disconnect then re-connect? I'll probably give it a try once I have the exhaust/driveshaft off -- just wondered if anyone had done this. Thanks. |
12-08-2018, 04:34 PM | #2 |
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I think getting your hands in there is going to be harder... and am not sure there's room to clear the pin even if you manage.
You don't need to cut the boot, and don't need to work from the top. I did it all in freezing temps from under the car when I installed my Kartboy. I did end up heating up the boot with a heat gun just in case...
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The Following User Says Thank You to cjd For This Useful Post: | ermax (12-10-2018) |
12-08-2018, 05:16 PM | #3 |
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you can rotate and slide out the two pins that connect the shifter carrier to transmission, lower the transmission, and remove the cotter pin (below "blue miles") at the shifter rod.
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=117270 |
12-08-2018, 07:20 PM | #4 | ||
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Quote:
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12-10-2018, 09:45 AM | #5 | |
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12-10-2018, 10:15 AM | #6 |
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I believe he is asking if the pin marked with the blue arrow can be removed rather than removing the pin marked in green. I am guessing you wouldn't be able to reach that pin. The boot marked in green can be taken off without cutting but it's REALLY freaking hard. I got mine off without cutting but it ripped going back on. You have to stretch the crap out of it to get it off/on. I plan to cut mine off and throw it away the next time I have mine off. Notice the linkage marked in blue doesn't have a boot and it's doing okay. Although it is up above and tucked in a little so it probably doesn't get as much exposure to road crap. The red pins are easy to deal with though. |
The Following User Says Thank You to ermax For This Useful Post: | JohnJuan (12-11-2018) |
12-10-2018, 10:19 AM | #7 | |
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This is good to know. I will try this next time. |
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12-10-2018, 03:38 PM | #8 | |
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I gave it a go last night - figured that worst case I have to remove the other one... The driveshaft was still in since I'm waiting on a transmission plug in an attempt to avoid having to change the gear oil (JUST changed it before the TOB failed). I was just able to get the retaining clip and washer off, but I can't seem to budge the linkage side to side to get the pin out and detached from the transmission. Can't see up in there well enough to figure out why it won't slide to the side and off. Will see if lowering it a bit helps once I get all the parts I've ordered and start this job in earnest. Thanks for the advice. BTW - was sort of shocked at how much movement my shifter carrier moves before it even contacts the rear bushing - about 1/8" of play it seems like. Ordered an energy suspension shifter bushing, whiteline KDT926 trans mount bushing, and the cusco shift lever retainer bushings... while I'm in there ... The front of the carrier was more solid, but still had some movement it seems. Last edited by 86league; 12-10-2018 at 04:06 PM. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to 86league For This Useful Post: | JohnJuan (12-11-2018) |
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