2013 BRZ oil consumption

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by 86MLR

If you dont get good ring and bore seal initially when breaking in the engine then you've missed the boat.

Unless you build the engine yourself, this is all academic. With a new car, the engine will have been started several times before it reaches its final destination.

[86MLR]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Unless you build the engine yourself, this is all academic. With a new car, the engine will have been started several times before it reaches its final destination.

Initial starting does play its role, but the benifits are still available for a few heat and load cycles even if the car has a couple of km on it.

From picking the brains of engine builders over the years I've learnt you need the engine at operating temps and under full load, before too many heat cycles and/or km.

I acknowledge this is a "can of worms" topic, I'm only putting forward what I have learned and what processes I use to break in a new engine using, what I believe are, sound engineering principles.

I've used this method on all new vehicles I have purchased and any engines that I have had built for me, cars and bikes included.

I'm no engine builder or mechanical engineer, but to me, the proof is in the pudding.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by 86MLR

I'm no engine builder or mechanical engineer, but to me, the proof is in the pudding.

I have mixed feelings about the technique and zero experience so, no argument from me.

Given a proper build, at worst it would do nothing. Seems like a no-brainer to give it a go.

[Bonburner]

I did a semi-hard break in .. occasional red line pulls.

But I'm seeing a lot of stuff out there advocating against hard pulls. so ... I don't know.

I guess it worked out for me, but that's pretty meaningless anecdote - more likely I got lucky with the engine block manufacturing process.
(Hopefully the recall work on the springs don't mess things up)

[86MLR]

Originally Posted by Bonburner

I did a semi-hard break in .. occasional red line pulls.

But I'm seeing a lot of stuff out there advocating against hard pulls. so ... I don't know.

I guess it worked out for me, but that's pretty meaningless anecdote - more likely I got lucky with the engine block manufacturing process.
(Hopefully the recall work on the springs don't mess things up)

How many people advocating against it are engine builders?

Metallurgy and oils have come along way.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by 86MLR

How many people advocating against it are engine builders?

Metallurgy and oils have come along way.

More than materials and lube, the main advance in play here is the manufacturing process.

Break-in is to give the parts that aren't supposed to come into contact a chance to rub against each other and wear down until they don't. Not much need for that anymore, not unless the build was for shit in the first place.

[86MLR]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

More than materials and lube, the main advance in play here is the manufacturing process.

Break-in is to give the parts that aren't supposed to come into contact a chance to rub against each other and wear down until they don't. Not much need for that anymore, not unless the build was for shit in the first place.

I believe it's still needed IOT ensure the ring and bore, ummm, leave a spot for the oil to sit on the surface of the bore to lubricate the ring and bore.

Other wise the hone gets screwed up and there is glazing on the bore, which will cause blow by.

It's more technical than my uneducated rambling though.

There's some good engine building sites that can relate it better, they even have pictures taken with microscopes that show the difference between what constitutes a good lubricated seal, and a poor one, and they explain how the different break in methods affect the bores.

The advancements in the honing methods now are also a good read and very enlightening.

[Bonburner]

Originally Posted by 86MLR

How many people advocating against it are engine builders?

Metallurgy and oils have come along way.

This was one of the few pretty convincing things I remember off the top of my head

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oklqJnm7_TY[/ame]

[JIM THEO]

I read the same article from mototune back in 2003, since then I follow succesfully their guide and although I rev the cars during brake in period I try to not be too hard, just in case, I change the oil after 150-200 first kms with semi-synthetic and again at 1000kms with normal synthetic I use!

[ZionsWrath]

Mine never burnt oil despite track use. Though i changed it often/low miles due to track use as well.

[86MLR]

Originally Posted by Bonburner

This was one of the few pretty convincing things I remember off the top of my

As I stated, it's a can of worms, I've seen a few videos of that guy, he seems pretty switched on, and does point out some good info, but, bringing up the operator manual for how the factory recommends, there is alot of conficting evidence IRT that.

A manufacturer isn't going to state that to break in their engine the owner needs to get the car up to operating temps and do multiple high load runs, ensuring to let the car cool between runs, all within the first 20km.

I can see it now, "sorry officer, I was only breaking in my engine the way the manual told me".

And a hard break in isn't thrashing the car, it is upping the load gradually, load does not equal high rpm, it does mean that you will see some high speed though, which may interest the local constabulary.

Anyways, I've put my views and findings of this subject out there, not everyone will agree, which is fine.

But, if anyone can prove with a leak down test that a soft break in is better I will revisit my findings, at this stage, for me at least, a hard break in gives better results.

[Bonburner]

Originally Posted by 86MLR

As I stated, it's a can of worms, I've seen a few videos of that guy, he seems pretty switched on, and does point out some good info, but, bringing up the operator manual for how the factory recommends, there is alot of conficting evidence IRT that.

A manufacturer isn't going to state that to break in their engine the owner needs to get the car up to operating temps and do multiple high load runs, ensuring to let the car cool between runs, all within the first 20km.

I can see it now, "sorry officer, I was only breaking in my engine the way the manual told me".

And a hard break in isn't thrashing the car, it is upping the load gradually, load does not equal high rpm, it does mean that you will see some high speed though, which may interest the local constabulary.

Anyways, I've put my views and findings of this subject out there, not everyone will agree, which is fine.

But, if anyone can prove with a leak down test that a soft break in is better I will revisit my findings, at this stage, for me at least, a hard break in gives better results.

Oh yeah, I'm well aware of how controversial this topic is.
I also found this video of his to be really interesting.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5C9Ie4BcYew[/ame]

[ROGER-86]

I have been carefully tracking my oil consumption on my 2017 86 Automatic by observing how many quarts of Mobil-1 I have gone through topping up over the last 2.5 years and 27K mi. My car uses exactly 1 qt every 12,400 miles.

As an aside: coolant consumption is 3.7oz every 7,500mi service interval.

I was super careful during the break-in period to watch RPM's and vary constantly, and a few strong pulls (torque'y, but not high RPM) to "seat the rings" if that really does happen. The car gets serviced per book at the dealer as it's new.

I drive it only for fun on a 90 mile route mostly on hiway-1 (Calif coast) to my fav hill climb from San Gregorio to Woodside CA. I do the 10 miles in the hills at 4,500-7K RPM quite hard, very fun. The oil temp gets to about 234 deg at it's peak when I reach the peak of the mountain. The water hits 212 at most (ambient air temperature of about 85).

Scenic driving flat along the coast the oil is 196 deg and water is 190.

I also blend my stupid 91 Calif gas in Woodside with 100 oct race gas (the 76 sells it there!) to get 93 oct and watch the ignition timing to confirm it advances properly to get the most power. I use BlueDriver to monitor.

Another aside... Starting in 2017 forward, Subaru stupidly programmed the car to let the battery discharge during acceleration and stops, doing most of the charging while decelerating only. I discovered this when I parked to listen to the radio for an hour and the car would barely crank. They said it's for "economy" B.S.! This will ruin batteries faster. You can force the car to "normal charge" at 14.2V by turning on the running lights (I drive with them all the time now). Also, if you turn the fan on it will hold at 13.3V. But drive normally and watch the voltage drop from an initial 14.4 at start to around 12.1 in just a few minutes. More on this later as I'm working up a big expose.

I'm an Engineer, I like to measure things.

[DarkPira7e]

Originally Posted by ROGER-86

I have been carefully tracking my oil consumption on my 2017 86 Automatic by observing how many quarts of Mobil-1 I have gone through topping up over the last 2.5 years and 27K mi. My car uses exactly 1 qt every 12,400 miles.

As an aside: coolant consumption is 3.7oz every 7,500mi service interval.

I was super careful during the break-in period to watch RPM's and vary constantly, and a few strong pulls (torque'y, but not high RPM) to "seat the rings" if that really does happen. The car gets serviced per book at the dealer as it's new.

I drive it only for fun on a 90 mile route mostly on hiway-1 (Calif coast) to my fav hill climb from San Gregorio to Woodside CA. I do the 10 miles in the hills at 4,500-7K RPM quite hard, very fun. The oil temp gets to about 234 deg at it's peak when I reach the peak of the mountain. The water hits 212 at most (ambient air temperature of about 85).

Scenic driving flat along the coast the oil is 196 deg and water is 190.

I also blend my stupid 91 Calif gas in Woodside with 100 oct race gas (the 76 sells it there!) to get 93 oct and watch the ignition timing to confirm it advances properly to get the most power. I use BlueDriver to monitor.

Another aside... Starting in 2017 forward, Subaru stupidly programmed the car to let the battery discharge during acceleration and stops, doing most of the charging while decelerating only. I discovered this when I parked to listen to the radio for an hour and the car would barely crank. They said it's for "economy" B.S.! This will ruin batteries faster. You can force the car to "normal charge" at 14.2V by turning on the running lights (I drive with them all the time now). Also, if you turn the fan on it will hold at 13.3V. But drive normally and watch the voltage drop from an initial 14.4 at start to around 12.1 in just a few minutes. More on this later as I'm working up a big expose.

I'm an Engineer, I like to measure things.

Did you post this in enough old threads? Maybe you're practicing to be a necromancer?!

Nice efforts, hopefully this information is helpful to someone