Built engine - GEN-2 GTX3076r

[Kris86]

Originally Posted by BRX

I read the whole thread hoping to see results to compare to my own build.

Have you replaced the damaged compressor seal you posted before? It's supposed to go around the plate behind the blades and not on the housing. A bit obvious but you never know.

I see you are venting the crankcase to the atmosphere. What have you done to the intake manifold and EVAP hoses? I suggest you plug them off and delete them. I deleted my PCV solenoid as it can't hold much boost. I would recheck all the hoses as there might be a simple misplaced hose that's hooked up in the wrong location.

You could also double check your fuel system as it is no longer a returnless system. Your fuel regulator needs a vacuum line to function correctly, at least on my other builds it did. Not sure how the FBM kit works but I'm pretty sure it needs a boost source at least.

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Yup first thing we changed was the seal for the turbo. Yeah the only reason it got cut/pinched was when we were spinning/aligning the housings angle

I completed deleted the evap solenoid and I plugged up all that it was connected too.

On the intake manifold where the pcv used to be plumbed too, I have my aem boost gauge vacuum source reading from there. I have checked my vacuum hoses over and over and over again. Any recommendations are to which vacuum lines could be hooked up incorrectly that I could make sure of?

I also have in the radium pcv delete kit.

Only modifications I've done to my fuel system are the DW 900cc injectors (with the hard connectors )and the FBM 485 fuel pump kit, I haven't installed any fuel pressure regulator or modified anything with the fuel system otherwise.

Can you please elaborate some more as to your last paragraph

[BRX]

Originally Posted by Kris86

Yup first thing we changed was the seal for the turbo. Yeah the only reason it got cut/pinched was when we were spinning/aligning the housings angle

I completed deleted the evap solenoid and I plugged up all that it was connected too.

On the intake manifold where the pcv used to be plumbed too, I have my aem boost gauge vacuum source reading from there. I have checked my vacuum hoses over and over and over again. Any recommendations are to which vacuum lines could be hooked up incorrectly that I could make sure of?

I also have in the radium pcv delete kit.

Only modifications I've done to my fuel system are the DW 900cc injectors (with the hard connectors )and the FBM 485 fuel pump kit, I haven't installed any fuel pressure regulator or modified anything with the fuel system otherwise.

Can you please elaborate some more as to your last paragraph

Ignore my last paragraph as you haven't actually installed the FBM fuel return system yet.

On the intake manifold you have 3 ports in total. Two on the top and one in the bottom.

The bottom one is Connected to the CPC solenoid (EVAP). I referred to it as the PCV solenoid in my previous post (my bad) Anyway, you can delete this solenoid whatever it's called, disconnect the hoses going into it and plug them making sure they're sealed tight. You can keep them connected on the non CPC solenoid sides. The solenoid is closed in normal operating conditions and some have actually tighten the hoses going into it as they become loose with boost. Deleting it is the safest way to go as you never know when the valve inside might fail or leak.

For the top two hoses, the one on the passenger side (driver side in US) is connected to the brake booster ( I use it for my gauge by welding a T in the solid line)

The one on the driver side (passenger in US) is the one coming from the PCV it is used in most catch can setups. If you're ventilating to air, make sure the intake manifold opening is sealed tight. The opening might actually be too big to be used for a gauge unless you install a reducer.

If I were you, I would reconnect the PCV valve directly to the intake manifold (remove gauge) and see if there is any difference. If not, I would look into installing the stock injectors as the DW injectors might not be seated correctly but it should have been probably noticed in the compression check you did. Also check the fuel/EVAP lines and make sure non of them are mixed up as all 3 look the same. It's gonna be something obvious as always with these issues.

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[FRS Justin]

Originally Posted by BRX

I read the whole thread hoping to see results to compare to my own build.

Have you replaced the damaged compressor seal you posted before? It's supposed to go around the plate behind the blades and not on the housing. A bit obvious but you never know.

I see you are venting the crankcase to the atmosphere. What have you done to the intake manifold and EVAP hoses? I suggest you plug them off and delete them. I deleted my PCV solenoid as it can't hold much boost. I would recheck all the hoses as there might be a simple misplaced hose that's hooked up in the wrong location.

You could also double check your fuel system as it is no longer a returnless system. Your fuel regulator needs a vacuum line to function correctly, at least on my other builds it did. Not sure how the FBM kit works but I'm pretty sure it needs a boost source at least.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

You don't need a vacuum source to the pressure regulator just set the fuel pressure to 56 pounds. vacuum reference regulators make tuning the system a total bitch because the tables have to be in sync with the changing fuel pressure plus your D/I pump should have a constant pressure not one that fluctuates..


Now as far as plugging the intake ports that is solid info. don't make the mistake I did and assume the valve will seal it. I took forever to figure why I COULD NOT MAINTAIN 30psi of boost.....smh

[FRS Justin]

Originally Posted by Kris86

Yup first thing we changed was the seal for the turbo. Yeah the only reason it got cut/pinched was when we were spinning/aligning the housings angle

I completed deleted the evap solenoid and I plugged up all that it was connected too.

On the intake manifold where the pcv used to be plumbed too, I have my aem boost gauge vacuum source reading from there. I have checked my vacuum hoses over and over and over again. Any recommendations are to which vacuum lines could be hooked up incorrectly that I could make sure of?

I also have in the radium pcv delete kit.

Only modifications I've done to my fuel system are the DW 900cc injectors (with the hard connectors )and the FBM 485 fuel pump kit, I haven't installed any fuel pressure regulator or modified anything with the fuel system otherwise.

Can you please elaborate some more as to your last paragraph

If you installed a aftermarket pump you need to check fuel pressure... some pumps run at 30 psi some at 75psi but your factory is 56 to 57 psi and that is what most tunes are set for.

[FRS Justin]

Kris if you need to look at my setup we can facetime and I will walk you thru it

[Kris86]

Originally Posted by BRX

Ignore my last paragraph as you haven't actually installed the FBM fuel return system yet.

On the intake manifold you have 3 ports in total. Two on the top and one in the bottom.

The bottom one is Connected to the CPC solenoid (EVAP). I referred to it as the PCV solenoid in my previous post (my bad) Anyway, you can delete this solenoid whatever it's called, disconnect the hoses going into it and plug them making sure they're sealed tight. You can keep them connected on the non CPC solenoid sides. The solenoid is closed in normal operating conditions and some have actually tighten the hoses going into it as they become loose with boost. Deleting it is the safest way to go as you never know when the valve inside might fail or leak.

For the top two hoses, the one on the passenger side (driver side in US) is connected to the brake booster ( I use it for my gauge by welding a T in the solid line)

The one on the driver side (passenger in US) is the one coming from the PCV it is used in most catch can setups. If you're ventilating to air, make sure the intake manifold opening is sealed tight. The opening might actually be too big to be used for a gauge unless you install a reducer.

If I were you, I would reconnect the PCV valve directly to the intake manifold (remove gauge) and see if there is any difference. If not, I would look into installing the stock injectors as the DW injectors might not be seated correctly but it should have been probably noticed in the compression check you did. Also check the fuel/EVAP lines and make sure non of them are mixed up as all 3 look the same. It's gonna be something obvious as always with these issues.

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I completely deleted the EVAP solenoid and plugged up the hoses that went with it securely.

I have honestly been told to try the pcv recirculation again just to see, so I guess it really is worth a shot. If not I will speak with my tuner about trying the stock injectors afterwards.

I really really really appreciate the time you took for your detailed post.

ALL THE HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED EVERYONE

[Kris86]

Originally Posted by FRS Justin

If you installed a aftermarket pump you need to check fuel pressure... some pumps run at 30 psi some at 75psi but your factory is 56 to 57 psi and that is what most tunes are set for.

Thanks for the info Justin!

I will speak with my tuner

[Kris86]

Originally Posted by FRS Justin

You don't need a vacuum source to the pressure regulator just set the fuel pressure to 56 pounds. vacuum reference regulators make tuning the system a total bitch because the tables have to be in sync with the changing fuel pressure plus your D/I pump should have a constant pressure not one that fluctuates..


Now as far as plugging the intake ports that is solid info. don't make the mistake I did and assume the valve will seal it. I took forever to figure why I COULD NOT MAINTAIN 30psi of boost.....smh

My bad but, Which valve do u mean exactly? Pcv?

[Kris86]

Originally Posted by BRX

The one on the driver side (passenger in US) is the one coming from the PCV it is used in most catch can setups. If you're ventilating to air, make sure the intake manifold opening is sealed tight. The opening might actually be too big to be used for a gauge unless you install a reducer.



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This is how my gauge is connected

[FRS Justin]

Originally Posted by Kris86

This is how my gauge is connected

Kris where does that other line go it should go to the brake booster.
evap purge valve

[BRX]

Originally Posted by FRS Justin

Kris where does that other line go it should go to the brake booster.
evap purge valve

I thought it was going into the opposite direction and then I saw that the battery and brake master cylinder are in opposite positions compared to LHD. I wonder what else is flipped over.

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[FRS Justin]

Originally Posted by BRX

I thought it was going into the opposite direction and then I saw that the battery and brake master cylinder are in opposite positions compared to LHD. I wonder what else is flipped over.

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ah the old left hand drive vs right hand drive lol

[Kris86]

Originally Posted by FRS Justin

Kris where does that other line go it should go to the brake booster.
evap purge valve

I completely deleted my evap solenoid

[Kris86]

Originally Posted by FRS Justin

If you installed a aftermarket pump you need to check fuel pressure... some pumps run at 30 psi some at 75psi but your factory is 56 to 57 psi and that is what most tunes are set for.

I do this by hookin a fuel pressure gauge between the feed line and the fuel rail correct ?