Could use some suspension advice

[guybo]

So you have really bad roads, the old shocks blew out because you're too low and you want to go lower and you're going to DD it in a place that gets snow?

that's a tall order. I think you need bags so you can adjust the ride height. But that's more $$ than you want to spend.

[ApexEight]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

The B12 is a kit with springs, and I assume it includes the B8 "sport" shock.

In general I don't recommend the B8 shock over the B6 since it's the same valving, just slightly less droop travel. No real gain.

- Andrew

Why did Bilstein decide to have less droop travel for those with lowering springs? Is there danger to having more droop travel with the lowering springs with them possibly "free falling" in big dips/potholes?

I'm really considering a B8 + lowering spring combo but if the B6s are better then I'll go with them.

[Assassin4Hire13]

Originally Posted by Jidonsu

Another thing you can consider is picking up someone's stock suspension for dirt cheap and swap that back during the winter. It's cheap if you can do the work yourself minus twice a year alignments.

Not a bad idea. Would still need something in the near future to replace what I have. As for work and alignment, I don't have an issue with that, I do my own work except in cases where I'm in way too deep. My local Racing Club has a sponsorship deal with a reputable shop for a screaming deal on lifetime alignments, so that's not much of a concern either.

[Assassin4Hire13]

Originally Posted by guybo

So you have really bad roads, the old shocks blew out because you're too low and you want to go lower and you're going to DD it in a place that gets snow?

that's a tall order. I think you need bags so you can adjust the ride height. But that's more $$ than you want to spend.

The old shocks blew out because they sat around and weren't used. I'm on prokits, so I'm not really that low. My buddy has an absolutely slammed NA Miata and another has a tastefully low S2000 and they get by fine. The roads aren't the greatest yeah but it is what it is. Generally speaking I don't hit potholes or major bumps (though I've clearly hit enough lol). I understand I'll be putting whatever I get through hell and back and that will have consequences down the road. It's all a game of give and take.

As for air, I have thought about it but I'm not too keen on the idea at the moment. Maybe when whatever system I go with needs replacing I'll take a look at air, but that too has pros and cons.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by ApexEight

Why did Bilstein decide to have less droop travel for those with lowering springs? Is there danger to having more droop travel with the lowering springs with them possibly "free falling" in big dips/potholes?

I'm really considering a B8 + lowering spring combo but if the B6s are better than I'll go with them.

I don't really have a great answer for that. Droop travel is a good thing...my guess is they designed the shorter extension so that with shorter than OEM springs they remain captive at all times. But I don't think there are any aftermarket springs (for this car) that are so short that you need to worry about that. So yeah, get the B6 shocks. Same bump travel and valving.

- Andrew

[Qadthane]

Originally Posted by ApexEight

Why did Bilstein decide to have less droop travel for those with lowering springs? Is there danger to having more droop travel with the lowering springs with them possibly "free falling" in big dips/potholes?

I'm really considering a B8 + lowering spring combo but if the B6s are better than I'll go with them.

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

I don't really have a great answer for that. Droop travel is a good thing...my guess is they designed the shorter extension so that with shorter than OEM springs they remain captive at all times. But I don't think there are any aftermarket springs (for this car) that are so short that you need to worry about that. So yeah, get the B6 shocks. Same bump travel and valving.

- Andrew

When I paired RCE Yellows with Raceseng Caster camber plates on stock dampers, I had an issue with the springs not being captive at full droop. The Raceseng plates have a reduced stack height; when combined with the lowering springs I managed to create this issue. I switched out the stock dampers to B8 dampers, and it solved the problem. I am not knocking RCE's or Raceseng's products; both are great. It was me that came up with the 1 - 1 = "oh damn" equation. Just for info, I ended up moving to RCE Tarmac springs from the Yellows. I wanted a little firmer spring rate. I think Tarmacs on B8s is a fantastic combo. I run a fair amount of autocross; the car is so much better than I am now.

[ApexEight]

Thanks for the responses guys. I think B6s/B8s + RCE Tarmacs or something similar would be my ideal setup. What is a good bang for the buck/budget camber plate? Or maybe I'll just try getting around -2.5 camber up front with just camber bolts and using the lower strut bolt in the upper hole. Thoughts? I don't think I'll ever go more aggressive than the sub 300TW tires so Pilot Super Sports and the like are probably what I'll be running.

[churchx]

If with drop, -2.5 should be doable with just bolts, due car naturally gaining camber from lowering. Don't forget LCAs for rear though.

[solidONE]

My DD alignment after swapping out my coilovers with a set of MY15 OE dampers. Completely stock save for camber bolts. Front camber "before" numbers were with max adjustment on top with the bottom one at or close to neutral position (no camber added). So you can expect as much as -1.7 with just one set of SPC camber bolts.



Using RS3 Hankook tires the result of this combo is still an understeering car. The toe was more than I'd like but.. Sears auto alignment. My previous alignment tech no longer works at the same location, so I'm just glad it's close to what I want.

[Assassin4Hire13]

So one final question, is there any appreciable difference between the Koni Yellows and Bilstein B6s? I looked on ft86sf and found I would be all in for the B6s (or Konis, I checked both), SPC camber bolts, and SPC LCAs for about $100 less than the kit they sell on the site with RCE Yellows, Koni Yellows, and SPC camber bolts and SPC LCAs. Having delved through numerous threads over the past couple days, the RCEs would give me more neutral handling than the more oversteer-y Pro Kits, right? I think I could live with myself sacrificing some low for more neutral performance. In my mind, it'd be worth the extra money to essentially get RCE Yellows for $100, even if that means I sell one of the two spring set I have down the road. I know the Konis have adjustable dampening, but in reality I'd set it once and forget it, so that's not really a point for or against them.

As for ride, it seems like everyone is pretty darn happy with their RCEs, so that doesn't sound like a problem either. Though I guess I should've done more research before the Pro Kits because many say they're a bit harsh on stock shocks. Whoops (But that's why I'm doing it now, right? lol). Once again, thanks for the help!

[RJasonKlein]

Originally Posted by Assassin4Hire13

So one final question, is there any appreciable difference between the Koni Yellows and Bilstein B6s? I looked on ft86sf and found I would be all in for the B6s (or Konis, I checked both), SPC camber bolts, and SPC LCAs for about $100 less than the kit they sell on the site with RCE Yellows, Koni Yellows, and SPC camber bolts and SPC LCAs. Having delved through numerous threads over the past couple days, the RCEs would give me more neutral handling than the more oversteer-y Pro Kits, right? I think I could live with myself sacrificing some low for more neutral performance. In my mind, it'd be worth the extra money to essentially get RCE Yellows for $100, even if that means I sell one of the two spring set I have down the road. I know the Konis have adjustable dampening, but in reality I'd set it once and forget it, so that's not really a point for or against them.

I would recommend the Bilsteins over the Konis.

I would also recommend that you call Racecomp Engineering directly and give them the opportunity to earn your business - nothing against FT86 SpeedFactory, but they're not posting on this very thread trying to help you out. Just saying...

[Assassin4Hire13]

I was more or less just using ft86sf to price things out and get an idea, but would rather buy from RCE directly if I get RCE Yellows