GrimmSpeed Cold Air Intake - New Product Information - Proven 10whp Gain

[cjd]

The box is mostly heat shielding in the area you'd dent... You want a closed box, so care to ensure it seals up well enough is helpful. The filter is on the intake tube, so the box doesn't need to be airtight.

I mean, that still sucks but if it's just the performance you want...

[GrimmSpeed]

Originally Posted by cjd

The box is mostly heat shielding in the area you'd dent... You want a closed box, so care to ensure it seals up well enough is helpful. The filter is on the intake tube, so the box doesn't need to be airtight.

I mean, that still sucks but if it's just the performance you want...

You nailed it! Based on the photos that we've seen, the 'dent' looks like it would need to provide less than 1/8" of clearance, which isn't much. I'd imagine holding a sandbag against the inside and tapping the outside with a ball peen hammer might do the trick. If I'm wrong, Chase will chime in shortly and correct me. Maybe we'll experiment with it.

Matt Beenen
Engineering

[diodelphi]

Originally Posted by mad_sb

I said i was gonna stop spending money on NA parts and save up for FI.... thats what I said alright......

dear Mad_sb

I want to post a new topic just for thanking you.
I think you helped me so , You are so patient and you answered all of my question very very accurate .

Thanks you sir

about FI what is in your mind? SC or TC?

[diodelphi]

Originally Posted by GrimmSpeed

ALL parameters in the map were equal between pulls.

Changing the MAF scale was not even necessary because we worked hard to make the intake behave as close to stock as possible. In fact in the MAF scale for the intake I believe the HIGHEST correction percentage anywhere was only 4%.

The ignition advance multiplier was forced to 1.0 for two reasons:

1) Consistency. We could perform pulls from stock IAM (i can't remember if it's .7 or .8) until the IAM gets to 1.0. But this is a waste of time, and is a way that some companies can post false dyno numbers (pull 1 being at a lower ignition advance compared to pull 5, thus showing "gains," but actually showing gains from increased ignition timing).

2) Looking for knock. If we do three pulls and the IAM drops, we know we have a problem.

For these reasons and more EVERY SINGLE DYNO YOU SEE should be performed at IAM = 1.0. This is what we did, this is what we do, it is most accurate, and the ONLY thing that we changed in the ECU map from stock.

So no, we didn't change cam or ignition timing, other than forcing the ignition to its "best condition."

Again, all comparison dynos were performed in the same temperature, conditions, dyno, operator, and on the same day.

Let me know if this makes sense to you or if you have any other questions,
Chase
Engineering

I read your links carefully , Thanks so for step by step dyno test graph .
very thanks because you are careful about customers .
I ordered one
be happy

[GrimmSpeed]

Originally Posted by finch1750

Would denting the box make any performance difference by causing turbulence or something like that?

The skunk2 isn't thermostatic which is tough since I DD and am not FI. But I will look into banjo fittings as that may be a solution. I may also just end up running a Forester style cooler since the lines run off the backside of the sandwhich plate.

Denting the box shouldnt cause any major issues with turbulence really at all. When I made the box come that far out at the back I was trying to account for oil coolers by matching the angle on the stock airbox, while also maintaining an angle that was pointing to the lower mount of the airbox. The most important aspect of this feature though was providing airflow around the filter. Not enough area in the back and my CFD simulations were showing a tendency to favor the front side of the air filter. Changing the angle any appreciable amount was ending up causing there to be very little room at the front and middle of the backside of the air filter, so I made the design decision to make airflow around the filter a priority.

Decay107 posted pictures of the clearance between the oil cooler and the airbox, and ultimately decided to get rid of the airbox. Here is the clearance:





So it's close. a little clearance can be gained from moving the sandwich plate a small amount counterclockwise, and a little clearance can be gained from when you tighten down the mounting bolts for the airbox by adjusting it clockwise. More clearance can be gained from denting the airbox, but since we havent tried this ourselves, we are not 100% on how much.



But since this was the end result, i think it really only needs to be clearanced a small amount. Let us know what you go with and we can work with you to develop a solution, witht he forester cooler probably being a no-mods-necessary-slam-dunk.

Originally Posted by diodelphi

I read your links carefully , Thanks so for step by step dyno test graph .
very thanks because you are careful about customers .
I ordered one
be happy

Hey no problem, love helping out and showing why a product that we worked very hard on is great, thanks for looking into it and picking one up!

Chase
Engineering

[Koa]

Originally Posted by finch1750

Would denting the box make any performance difference by causing turbulence or something like that?

The skunk2 isn't thermostatic which is tough since I DD and am not FI. But I will look into banjo fittings as that may be a solution. I may also just end up running a Forester style cooler since the lines run off the backside of the sandwhich plate.

FWIW I run the XT cooler with this intake, no problems.. love both of them.

[Grim-Reaper]

Any chance getting that intake to meet German legal restrictions? Don't think the "TÜV" likes it :-/

[quicksilver30]

I love my gimmspeed intake, but this does make me a bit nervous about getting the Mishimoto oil cooler. Hopefully the clearance won't be an issue.

Does anyone have that combination that can comment?

[GrimmSpeed]

Originally Posted by Grim-Reaper

Any chance getting that intake to meet German legal restrictions? Don't think the "TÜV" likes it :-/

I have no idea what it would take to meet those guidelines. If it's anything like meeting CARB certification here, I seriously doubt it. Do you have a link to anything about it so I can get an idea?

Chase
Engineering

[Pat]

I don't have specifics, but it takes a lot of time, effort and money to attain TUV certification. Don't get your hopes up.

[Grim-Reaper]

I had a short mail conversation with RHD Speedmaster about TÜV. That is a shop known by most German JDM fans in terms of TÜV, legality checks and stuff.

They said they could make that but 280€ "special check" combined with additional 120€ for dyno run. That plus the price of the intake itself... Pew... way too much sadly :-/

[GrimmSpeed]

Originally Posted by Grim-Reaper

I had a short mail conversation with RHD Speedmaster about TÜV. That is a shop known by most German JDM fans in terms of TÜV, legality checks and stuff.

They said they could make that but 280€ "special check" combined with additional 120€ for dyno run. That plus the price of the intake itself... Pew... way too much sadly :-/

I actually worked with TÜV quite a bit when I worked at Polaris a while back. We were certifying an ATV as a 'tractor' so that it could be sold in Europe as an agricultural vehicle. Long story short - TUV certification can be a nightmare. Unfortunately, at this time, that would need to be something that we probably just don't have the resources to tackle.

Matt Beenen
Engineering

[phobos512]

Hey @GrimmSpeed so I got my intake installed yesterday; only had one challenge (other than doing the install outside in 8°F temps): the worm clamp for the front of the flex coupler (to the intake pipe) ate itself when I was tightening it down. Luckily I had spares from my prior setup. Man I hate those damn clamps...

I threw the OFT tune in and went for a drive and everything was good. Spring needs to spring so I can go have some fun now.

[GrimmSpeed]

Originally Posted by phobos512

Hey @GrimmSpeed so I got my intake installed yesterday; only had one challenge (other than doing the install outside in 8°F temps): the worm clamp for the front of the flex coupler (to the intake pipe) ate itself when I was tightening it down. Luckily I had spares from my prior setup. Man I hate those damn clamps...

I threw the OFT tune in and went for a drive and everything was good. Spring needs to spring so I can go have some fun now.

Glad to hear it!

Our welders just finished a MASSIVE batch of intakes and they're off to powdercoating. You guys are buying them faster than we can get them back on the shelves. Who else has been enjoying the warmer weather and dry roads?