whiteline rear subframe inserts - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

charged86 · 04-12-2013, 10:07 PM

Has anyone installed the rear subframe bushing inserts from whiteline? Like installed them yourself. I attempted. Got the rear mounts but it was easy. I only loosened the rear subframebolts with rear of car on jack stands Seemed like its too hard to do laying on your back with one jack lowering the rear subframe to do the front two.

20valvewynn83 · 04-12-2013, 10:36 PM

I don't recommend doing this with out a lift as it is hard to re- align the rear end after you remove the bolts. Last thing you want is the whole rear end to fall off.

mrk1 · 04-12-2013, 11:14 PM

Why would the rear end fall off? Either the bolts go in or they dont. I did my BRZ inserts on the ground but my 08 STI on a lift. Didn't see to much difference.

UncleFester · 04-12-2013, 11:25 PM

Put mine in using a jack and stands. Was easy. Took about 30 minutes.

D1cker · 05-15-2013, 06:55 PM

I did it on a lift because I could, but it's pretty easy. Just follow the instructions from whiteline.

Calum · 05-17-2013, 12:37 PM

I just finished doing mine. I did it with the car on ramps. I did have to jack up one side at a time to give clearance to get the front bushings installed, but all in the all, it went well.

I did run into one snag, but it didn't have anything to do with the parts from Whiteline or the instructions. One of my factory threaded holes felt like it had been cross threaded for the first two or three threads. The bolt kept skipping to the side so I had to clean that up before I could continue. All in all it took me about 1.5 hours to install these and the diff inserts.

ATL BRZ · 05-17-2013, 01:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charged86

Has anyone installed the rear subframe bushing inserts from whiteline? Like installed them yourself. I attempted. Got the rear mounts but it was easy. I only loosened the rear subframebolts with rear of car on jack stands Seemed like its too hard to do laying on your back with one jack lowering the rear subframe to do the front two.

I followed this DIY which is WAY better than what Whiteline includes: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20920

I did have a drive-on lift which made it easier. It's imperative that you jack the subframe/diff at the points dictated (subframe crossbar for the rear and diff for the front) in the DIY. Otherwise the subframe assy won't align properly to get the bolts re-threaded. Just follow the steps exactly. To install the fronts you'll need to loosen (NOT remove) the rear bolts again and have the subframe hanging down a bit to allow the front make enough clearance to get the front bushings in when you're jacking up the sides.

Take your time. You DO NOT want to cross thread those bolts. Any abnormal threading resistance at all, STOP and back them out and realign the subframe properly. Use a flashlight to shine up in there and find the holes.

7thgear · 05-17-2013, 01:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 20valvewynn83

I don't recommend doing this with out a lift as it is hard to re- align the rear end after you remove the bolts. Last thing you want is the whole rear end to fall off.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9_XPANc9aIc"]Oil Tanker Front End Fell Off.... How? - YouTube[/ame]

Calum · 05-17-2013, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 7thgear

WTF?

charged86 · 05-17-2013, 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ATL BRZ

I followed this DIY which is WAY better than what Whiteline includes: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20920

I did have a drive-on lift which made it easier. It's imperative that you jack the subframe/diff at the points dictated (subframe crossbar for the rear and diff for the front) in the DIY. Otherwise the subframe assy won't align properly to get the bolts re-threaded. Just follow the steps exactly. To install the fronts you'll need to loosen (NOT remove) the rear bolts again and have the subframe hanging down a bit to allow the front make enough clearance to get the front bushings in when you're jacking up the sides.

Take your time. You DO NOT want to cross thread those bolts. Any abnormal threading resistance at all, STOP and back them out and realign the subframe properly. Use a flashlight to shine up in there and find the holes.

Took the car to my friends shop. Both bolts on the driver side were almost cross threaded. You couldn't even thread them back in by hand passenger side you could. We decided they were cross threaded from the factory

ATL BRZ · 05-17-2013, 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charged86

Took the car to my friends shop. Both bolts on the driver side were almost cross threaded. You couldn't even thread them back in by hand passenger side you could. We decided they were cross threaded from the factory

I highly doubt they were cross threaded from the factory.

They likely got messed up when you installed the rear bushings by not properly supporting the subframe and/or not letting the subframe rest on the partially threaded rear bolts to install the front bushings. There should be little to no resistance threading the bolts if the subframe is properly supported/aligned.

Check this thread out from another forum member who unfortunately cross threaded those bolts. It's easy to do if you aren't being careful.

Good luck.

Calum · 05-17-2013, 06:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ATL BRZ

I highly doubt they were cross threaded from the factory.

They likely got messed up when you installed the rear bushings by not properly supporting the subframe and/or not letting the subframe rest on the partially threaded rear bolts to install the front bushings. There should be little to no resistance threading the bolts if the subframe is properly supported/aligned.

Check this thread out from another forum member who unfortunately cross threaded those bolts. It's easy to do if you aren't being careful.

Good luck.

I can't speak for the other people, but I know what I'm doing, and did it right. The first two to three threads on the passenger side forward hole were cross threaded, from the factory. Nobody else has had those bolts out, and the subframe alignment was checked before I tried to thread the bolt in. I had to hold the ratchet in place to prevent the bolt from skipping to the side. When I first noticed it, I rechecked the alignment and it was spot on.

I saw the thread you mentioned and started getting that sinking feeling the minute I saw the bolt go crocked. Not a good feeling.

charged86 · 05-17-2013, 07:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ATL BRZ

I highly doubt they were cross threaded from the factory.

They likely got messed up when you installed the rear bushings by not properly supporting the subframe and/or not letting the subframe rest on the partially threaded rear bolts to install the front bushings. There should be little to no resistance threading the bolts if the subframe is properly supported/aligned.

Check this thread out from another forum member who unfortunately cross threaded those bolts. It's easy to do if you aren't being careful.

Good luck.

And I highly doubt your correct. Ive been modifying cars since 95 and gocart racing with my dad from 87 to 93. But thanks though

ATL BRZ · 05-17-2013, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charged86

And I highly doubt your correct. Ive been modifying cars since 95 and gocart racing with my dad from 87 to 93. But thanks though

Just trying to help. Sorry if I sounded condescending. Hope you get it sorted out. The bushings are worth the trouble to install.

04-12-2013, 10:07 PM	#1
charged86 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Drives: whiteout gt86 2015 IS350fsport Location: northern kentucky. cincy Posts: 1,931 Thanks: 2,154 Thanked 697 Times in 437 Posts Mentioned: 42 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	whiteline rear subframe inserts Has anyone installed the rear subframe bushing inserts from whiteline? Like installed them yourself. I attempted. Got the rear mounts but it was easy. I only loosened the rear subframebolts with rear of car on jack stands Seemed like its too hard to do laying on your back with one jack lowering the rear subframe to do the front two. __________________ INSTAGRAM @Rcf_700 www.youtube.com/boostindub

04-12-2013, 11:14 PM	#3
mrk1 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Drives: Sterling BRZ Ltd Location: New England Posts: 1,702 Thanks: 403 Thanked 1,389 Times in 671 Posts Mentioned: 20 Post(s) Tagged: 2 Thread(s)	Why would the rear end fall off? Either the bolts go in or they dont. I did my BRZ inserts on the ground but my 08 STI on a lift. Didn't see to much difference. __________________ The Build Thread GT28RS - eBoost2 - 3.91 Final Drive - Supra LSD

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04-12-2013, 11:25 PM	#4
UncleFester Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Drives: BRZ Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 597 Thanks: 157 Thanked 178 Times in 120 Posts Mentioned: 15 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Put mine in using a jack and stands. Was easy. Took about 30 minutes.

05-15-2013, 06:55 PM	#5
D1cker Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Drives: B9 S4/ND2 Location: Fullerton, CA Posts: 522 Thanks: 190 Thanked 182 Times in 106 Posts Mentioned: 21 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	I did it on a lift because I could, but it's pretty easy. Just follow the instructions from whiteline.

05-17-2013, 12:37 PM	#6
Calum That Guy Join Date: Dec 2011 Drives: 2013 asphalt FRS MT Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia Posts: 4,865 Thanks: 5,058 Thanked 2,867 Times in 1,499 Posts Mentioned: 82 Post(s) Tagged: 1 Thread(s)	I just finished doing mine. I did it with the car on ramps. I did have to jack up one side at a time to give clearance to get the front bushings installed, but all in the all, it went well. I did run into one snag, but it didn't have anything to do with the parts from Whiteline or the instructions. One of my factory threaded holes felt like it had been cross threaded for the first two or three threads. The bolt kept skipping to the side so I had to clean that up before I could continue. All in all it took me about 1.5 hours to install these and the diff inserts.

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