Opti-Coated the BRZ

[Food]

What's the average cost to PPF the hood and bumper? It looks like something I want to do...but not if it's thousands of dollars lol (especially since the average price to get a panel/hood/bumper/fender painted is $400-500).

I'm a noob on this new "PPF" stuff and actually only read about it here recently. I've only researched and am knowledgeable of coatings (OC, CQuartz, etc), and other typical detailing products/techniques (paint correction, compounds/polishes, sealants, wax, polish machines, etc)

[Ec1990]

Originally Posted by Food

What's the average cost to PPF the hood and bumper? It looks like something I want to do...but not if it's thousands of dollars lol (especially since the average price to get a panel/hood/bumper/fender painted is $400-500).

I'm a noob on this new "PPF" stuff and actually only read about it here recently. I've only researched and am knowledgeable of coatings (OC, CQuartz, etc), and other typical detailing products/techniques (paint correction, compounds/polishes, sealants, wax, polish machines, etc)

Probably around the $500-1000 range depending on location, PPF used (Xpel/3M), and the quality of the installer.

[Food]

Wow..didn't know that. I'll pass and just stick with traditional detailing stuff and maybe coatings. You can get a bumper painted for $400-500, and a hood painted for $400-500, from a dealer and/or a high quality paint shop.

[imom]

Originally Posted by Food

Wow..didn't know that. I'll pass and just stick with traditional detailing stuff and maybe coatings. You can get a bumper painted for $400-500, and a hood painted for $400-500, from a dealer and/or a high quality paint shop.

I guess you never had your bumper sprayed before... it's not as easy to blend and match paint. To blend bumper to hood and fender, the painter will need to over spray and try to match the old paint with the new paint. I"m not saying it can't be done, but it's not easy even for high end shops...unless you allow them to blend. If you blend, that means the paint is going to show on the paint meter that you had body work done i.e. repaint. It may not mean much for some but for others it's depreciation in value. The laser that does the measurements are very accurate.

Like I said in my other postings, if you don't want to do PPF the whole front clip, just do the bumper. The bumper takes the most abuse, plus imagine you scrap your bumper...okay you paint it... go on a freeway and pick up more chips right away. At least with PPF is that unless it's has more serious damage, the PPF can be corrected and your paint still protected.

So the only real way to save money is to get some old junk cars and learn how to paint correct and how to wrap cars...otherwise if you can't afford it. Just have some paint correction by pro and do the sealant yourself and then just wrap the bumper... If you got money then just have it done by folks you know who can refer you to someone good.

[sr86]

Wow... I really admire your work Ec1990. Good job!

[Ec1990]

Originally Posted by imom

I guess you never had your bumper sprayed before... it's not as easy to blend and match paint. To blend bumper to hood and fender, the painter will need to over spray and try to match the old paint with the new paint. I"m not saying it can't be done, but it's not easy even for high end shops...unless you allow them to blend. If you blend, that means the paint is going to show on the paint meter that you had body work done i.e. repaint. It may not mean much for some but for others it's depreciation in value. The laser that does the measurements are very accurate.

Like I said in my other postings, if you don't want to do PPF the whole front clip, just do the bumper. The bumper takes the most abuse, plus imagine you scrap your bumper...okay you paint it... go on a freeway and pick up more chips right away. At least with PPF is that unless it's has more serious damage, the PPF can be corrected and your paint still protected.

So the only real way to save money is to get some old junk cars and learn how to paint correct and how to wrap cars...otherwise if you can't afford it. Just have some paint correction by pro and do the sealant yourself and then just wrap the bumper... If you got money then just have it done by folks you know who can refer you to someone good.

Very valid points especially after only a few years and with tintcoats or heavy metallic paints it is incredibly difficult to blend correctly.

Paint correcting honestly is not a difficult skill to learn. Complicated? Absolutely but I taught myself over the past two years and it only takes half a dozen or so tries and quite a bit of patience to learn it and can be overwhelming at first.

You shouldn't have to heavily paint correct your car more than once or twice, after that it's once a year minor polishes since scratches and swirls are inevitable.

[Food]

Good points. Ya, matching new paint to years-old worn paint would be difficult. But maybe there's new digital tools/sensors/etc nowadays that can find better paint mixtures to match the old paint. I know there's some new digital mix machines that can find precise ratios and percentages to get the exact/any color you need. But ya; I know whatcha mean as I had a rear quarter repainted on my EG 20 years ago; it was close, but still a not perfect match to the rest of the 3-4yo older paint on the car. But I'm sure there's some new better paint matching advancements/machines 20 years later

But, I see your point...having at least the front bumper PPF would be a good choice, for the budget conscious. I may just do this.

[imom]

Originally Posted by Ec1990

Paint correcting honestly is not a difficult skill to learn. Complicated? Absolutely but I taught myself over the past two years and it only takes half a dozen or so tries and quite a bit of patience to learn it and can be overwhelming at first.

Do you do this for a living...seem to know a bit about the topic. I thought about a rupes big foot polisher, but I don't have an old car to practice on and I didn't want to learn on a new car. My neighbar had a new black car and tried to polish the car himself...he ratfucked the paint...was kinda funny on a brand new car. He was lucky to find someone at the detailer store to save his butt and correct all his mistakes...talk about swirl city.

I know doing it is not hard especially if you have a good DA polisher and proper technique...lately time is not a luxury for me. For others.... if you got a buddy or your old old car that needs a paint correction...I say learn on that. Couldn't make it worse and will be good practice and should make it look better. But yes...after major correction, if well maintained...shouldn't take a lot to do touch ups.

[Ec1990]

Originally Posted by Food

Good points. Ya, matching new paint to years-old worn paint would be difficult. But maybe there's new digital tools/sensors/etc nowadays that can find better paint mixtures to match the old paint. I know there's some new digital mix machines that can find precise ratios and percentages to get the exact/any color you need. But ya; I know whatcha mean as I had a rear quarter repainted on my EG 20 years ago; it was close, but still a not perfect match to the rest of the 3-4yo older paint on the car. But I'm sure there's some new better paint matching advancements/machines 20 years later

But, I see your point...having at least the front bumper PPF would be a good choice, for the budget conscious. I may just do this.

There definitely have been enhancements especially with lighting which allows a much better blend.

Originally Posted by imom

Do you do this for a living...seem to know a bit about the topic. I thought about a rupes big foot polisher, but I don't have an old car to practice on and I didn't want to learn on a new car. My neighbar had a new black car and tried to polish the car himself...he ratfucked the paint...was kinda funny on a brand new car. He was lucky to find someone at the detailer store to save his butt and correct all his mistakes...talk about swirl city.

I know doing it is not hard especially if you have a good DA polisher and proper technique...lately time is not a luxury for me. For others.... if you got a buddy or your old old car that needs a paint correction...I say learn on that. Couldn't make it worse and will be good practice and should make it look better. But yes...after major correction, if well maintained...shouldn't take a lot to do touch ups.

No just a hobby. I'm always willing to help out local enthusiasts though, I thought about and tried starting it up as a side-business but it didn't work out. it's difficult to establish, but I do also run a blog for fun on detailing. it allows me to post what I want on numerous products I try out. But if anyone's in Vegas and wants their car detailed I'm open to do it, either for a cost or if you just want to learn.

The Rupes is a fantastic polisher either the 15 or 21 especially with the Kevin brown washer mod. It will do it much quicker than other polishers but I just couldnt justify it over the cost of a Griot's.

Overall besides burning the paint with a rotary or sanding through the clear, there's not much you can do with a standard orbital polisher that will forever ruin your paint.

[Food]

Should I just get a rotary instead of an entry DA? All I read about is lack of power from DAs and I am sure that will dissapoint me after the 1st car I use it on and I'll end up wanting more power quickly. I'm not incompetent (I think lol) and have read and watched many many many videos and articles on how to use a rotary correctly and also using the correct pads, product and technique/arm speed. It would be hard to burn or ruin paint with the proper pads, proper polishes and sufficient arm speed and technique imo. Also, intricate edging will be much easier, precise and nicer with a rotary.

I just honestly feel I'll regret buying a weak DA, when I could've bought a rotary for roughly the same price (with better tank build quality to boot from a classic rotary...instead of a china/plastic built griots). Lastly, the rotary will be much smoother and quieter and comfortable, than a DA (which will jiggle your hand numb after an hour lol).

[Shady195]

Originally Posted by Food

Should I just get a rotary instead of an entry DA? All I read about is lack of power from DAs and I am sure that will dissapoint me after the 1st car I use it on and I'll end up wanting more power quickly. I'm not incompetent (I think lol) and have read and watched many many many videos and articles on how to use a rotary correctly and also using the correct pads, product and technique/arm speed. It would be hard to burn or ruin paint with the proper pads, proper polishes and sufficient arm speed and technique imo. Also, intricate edging will be much easier, precise and nicer with a rotary.

I just honestly feel I'll regret buying a weak DA, when I could've bought a rotary for roughly the same price (with better tank build quality to boot from a classic rotary...instead of a china/plastic built griots). Lastly, the rotary will be much smoother and quieter and comfortable, than a DA (which will jiggle your hand numb after an hour lol).

If the DA is jiggling your hand numb then you're doing something wrong.

If you have absolutely no experience using a machine I would get a DA. At worst it takes longer to get the job done, but on a car as new as the twins to be honest It shouldent take long at all to do a correction unless your paint has been severely neglected/put in extreme conditions.

You can watch as many youtube videos as you want and take every piece of advice there is out there but until you have a machine in youre hand you have no feel for it.

I learned on a rotary 7 years ago or so. A friend of mine a professional detailer was showing me how on my old Infiniti G20t. I said hey.. they doesn't look so bad, he handed it to me and said oh yeah? Think you can do it.. I said yeah sure.. Needless to say I actually did okay however I did burn through on the close edge of my hood. With a DA I really don't need to worry about that so much.

Also, if you think you're strong.. Enjoy holding one for a few hours and let me know how you feel after

I've only detailed a hand full of cars, i'm hardly a pro at it, but I can tell you from someone who had the same thoughts as you.. its not nearly as easy as you think it will be, not that its hard.. but its all about feeling.

Just get a DA and when youre comfortable with keeping steady pressures and best practices, move onto a rotary.

[Ec1990]

Originally Posted by Food

Should I just get a rotary instead of an entry DA? All I read about is lack of power from DAs and I am sure that will dissapoint me after the 1st car I use it on and I'll end up wanting more power quickly. I'm not incompetent (I think lol) and have read and watched many many many videos and articles on how to use a rotary correctly and also using the correct pads, product and technique/arm speed. It would be hard to burn or ruin paint with the proper pads, proper polishes and sufficient arm speed and technique imo. Also, intricate edging will be much easier, precise and nicer with a rotary.

I just honestly feel I'll regret buying a weak DA, when I could've bought a rotary for roughly the same price (with better tank build quality to boot from a classic rotary...instead of a china/plastic built griots). Lastly, the rotary will be much smoother and quieter and comfortable, than a DA (which will jiggle your hand numb after an hour lol).

I can't say I recommend a rotary, it's not worth it in my opinion at this point in technology. It's safer for a DA, the time saved isn't necessary since being new to it the most important thing is getting time using the machine.

Rotaries are incredibly easy to burn through paint with improper technique. Take some practice with a DA and make your decision then.

[Food]

I'll get a rotary. It's something I've always wanted since the 90s - a true direct drive high speed machine and not a gimmick'y da. Tried a cheapy orbital a couple years ago...ended up not using it and did a truck entirely by hand instead because the orbital sucked so bad and was so weak and just felt like all it did was vibrate.

I honestly think(and have also read many times) the hype and rumors of the dangers and difficulties of using a rotary have been blown out of proportion through the years more and more, to a point where new people are scared of rotaries and get a DA instead. Yes, I read DA are good...but mostly from people that haven't used anything else. Then those people get rid of the PC and get a GG and love its' more powerful motor and doesn't bog down as easy (well...if you dislike "bogging" then y not just get a direct drive machine, no?). And many others, after their first polish job with the DA, they get tired of its' weakness already and upgrade and go for a true rotary and say they wish they went with the rotary from the beginning.

[imom]

Originally Posted by Food

I honestly think(and have also read many times) the hype and rumors of the dangers and difficulties of using a rotary have been blown out of proportion through the years more and more, to a point where new people are scared of rotaries and get a DA instead. Yes, I read DA are good...but mostly from people that haven't used anything else. Then those people get rid of the PC and get a GG and love its' more powerful motor and doesn't bog down as easy (well...if you dislike "bogging" then y not just get a direct drive machine, no?). And many others, after their first polish job with the DA, they get tired of its' weakness already and upgrade and go for a true rotary and say they wish they went with the rotary from the beginning.

I"m a bit confused... from reading your posts on several threads it seems you are new to this and many have offered you advice, but yet you seems to know better. My detailer uses Rupes big foot... I've done some reading on this topic and seen first hand on noobs polishing a new car. There's a lot of youtube on pros showing how to polish, but I don't see many old school using rotary only. It takes a lot of practice given the issue of burning the paint and bad technique in getting swirl marks.

Why do you need more power? The big foot has a very large throw so it covers a big area. The idea of DA is that it doesn't stay on one place and it's random motion reduces the heat build up. If you bought a quality DA, there shouldn't be any issues and get great results. How many pros are raving about rotaries?

Ec1990 already gave you educated advice and several others yet you seems to ignore it. All I can say about rotary polishers... If it's a new car you practice on and you burn the paint, it'll be an expensive lesson for you. Best of luck to you.