07-15-2012, 11:27 PM | #29 |
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I did not know this my self so I looked it up and according to K&N's site, the only difference is that the PS-1004 has the nut on the end for easier install/removal, and weighs in at .63lb, where the HP-1004 does not have the nut on the end and weighs on at .75lbs. Other than that they are identical according to K&N's site. I wonder if the HP-1004 has physically more filter media(guessing due to the weight) or if the casing of it just weighs more. I am thinking it is only from the casing though from further research. Can anyone chime in with a better answer?
Hope this helps. Thanks, Rick |
08-14-2012, 02:57 PM | #30 |
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Fumoto makes a new "S" variant of their valves now. So now there's
F108: original, no nipple. (7/8" in length (Only stick out 1/2" more than standard oil plug head.) F108N: with long nipple (15mm) for attaching rubber hose (1 1/2" in length (stick out 1 1/8" more than standard oil plug head) F108S: short nipple. (17/16" in length, 5mm nipple) I'm gonna order a F108S to try it out. |
08-14-2012, 03:16 PM | #31 | |
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08-15-2012, 12:18 AM | #32 |
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Thanks Bobasaur and Jayde, great info!
Rick |
08-15-2012, 10:29 PM | #33 | |
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09-01-2012, 09:38 PM | #34 | |
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I had the same issue as jarviz. I bought a new 14mm wrench in the hopes that I could loosen up the drain plug, but it still did not work. Finally I decided to use a ratchet with a 14mm drive socket and it worked. I had to tap the drive socket into the drain plug first to cover the nut, and then I attached the ratchet to that drive socket. I was not sure whether the nut was a hairline larger than my drive socket, or vice versa, or that it is still new. The drain plug did got stuck in the drive socket though after I unscrewed it. I tapped it out. Our drain plugs might have been over torqued. |
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09-28-2012, 11:55 PM | #35 | |
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09-29-2012, 12:11 PM | #36 |
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I always use sockets, never an issue. Now I have Fumoto Valves so it's never going to be needed again!
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10-12-2012, 07:27 PM | #37 |
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Quick question, is it fine if I only lift the front by driving up the ramp to do an oil change? So basically like jacking up only the front. Or should I drive up ramp/jack up front, then jack up the back so they are leveled. I will be using jack stands of course. Ive been jacking up all four corners for oil changes and imo if all i need to do is just drive it up a ramp and no need to lift the back then thats so much easier...
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10-12-2012, 10:59 PM | #38 | |
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10-12-2012, 11:53 PM | #39 |
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A pressure bleeder would do nicely. I purchased a Motive Products pressure bleeder to do one man brake fluid changes, works like a charm. I imagine pushing oil out the engine (or even a vacuum bleeder) would be the IDEAL way to get all the oil out and the most fresh oil in.
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10-13-2012, 12:40 AM | #40 |
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The OP had a good replacement using a magnetic plug. It does not help with a real problem but it might help diagnose issues.
WOW! you guys can make this WAY over complicated. It is an oil change for god's sake. I have a dry sumped SBC track car and I don't put this much thought into an oil change. Use a 6 point socket and remove the drain plug like a man. The Fuckyermoto valve is ridiculous. Why would you add another point of failure to a beautifully simple drain plug. It is not like you change the oil every day at the track... get some fuzzy dice while your at it. The filter is inverted... wet the element with a small amount of oil and screw it on... no need to fill it up at all. You are just going to dump oil all over the place. |
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10-13-2012, 01:55 AM | #41 | |
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Actually never heard of anyone lifting their car at all four corners to do an oil change before unless they had a lift.
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10-13-2012, 01:56 AM | #42 | |
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