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Old 01-17-2016, 07:14 PM   #43
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2013 whiteout frs 26k miles
Mods: gruppe-s headers,perrin resonated exhaust, st coils, valenti red tails, oft tune, mishimoto oil catch can, and some enkei rs05rr and delicious tuning flex fuel kit is gonna go on it in the next couple weeks...

So far so good crickets come and go i dont mind them, have had no issues at all with the car you wont regret getting one. Power isnt there but youll have fun building power as mods are addicting lol but 100% recommend getting a twin youll love it as most of us do 👍

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Old 01-17-2016, 07:49 PM   #44
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I have a 2013 FRS (made in 10/2012, purchased in 12/2012) with around 35k miles on it.

Zero problems whatsoever. The only warranty work I've done was to replace the fuel pump back in early 2013. The new one chirped louder than the original but otherwise it's a non-issue. The paint and rust are what you'd expect for a car this age. Even with my supercharger (which I've had for 1 year/10k miles) it starts and runs just as reliable as a bone stock car. That's particularly impressive because I go drifting with mine which involves a lot of time bouncing off the rev limiter and generally abusing the car.

I personally love mine, and I have for as long as I've owned it. I've also daily driven a '07 Lexus, a '96 Porsche, and a '98 BMW, and I find the FRS to be the most comfortable all-arounder despite being the cheapest. The seats and interior fit me very well. It's an enjoyable car around town and comfortable on long-distance highway trips. I still find myself smiling when I drive it and staring at it while parked in the garage.

Before you buy it, understand what you're buying. It's a cheap, lightweight, low hp coupe. When these first came to market in 2012, a lot of people ran out and immediately bought them, only to hate that it was slower than a Camaro and used cheaper materials than a $40k Mustang GT Premium. It won't be fast and it won't be luxurious, and that's what makes it fun. It's an enthusiast car that is wildly popular despite being sub-par on paper, sorta like the Jeep Wrangler. If that isn't your cup of tea, then you should maybe look elsewhere.
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Old 01-18-2016, 11:09 AM   #45
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Used 2013. Got it in July.

Lots of creaks and rattles. Plenty of random bangs when going over bumps. Transmission is a pain in the ass when cold. Clutch has zero feedback. Some days the engine makes weird grinding noises like it is about to die, and then the next it sound healthy and wants to rev. Full pump isn't chirping right now (freezing temperatures), in the summer it is bonanza. Windows screech going up or down when wet. When running the heat/ AC the engine doesn't want to idle right and revs up and down. Stereo sounds tinny, though spending some time with the EQ can help a little. Too much bass causes the doors to rattle. The seat doesn't go down far enough. The wheel doesn't telescope enough. Lots of panel gaps and general build quality issues. Lots of road and wind noise. At 5,000 rpm the engine sounds about the same at 7,400 so not hitting the limiter means keeping your eyes on the tach. The engine is too quiet but at the same time it sounds like a dying kitchen appliance.

I just had my 30,000 mile service... $315.

I love driving the thing. It is easy to control. Great fuel economy. Zero regrets.
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Old 01-18-2016, 11:46 AM   #46
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Own a 10 Series since Aug 2013, has 15,500 miles completely stock except swapping bulbs to LED. Only issue encountered (last year) was a slightly leaky cam plate cover (dealt with that asap -ridiculously stupid problem that was very easy to fix). Aside from oil changes -no other maintenance required.
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Old 01-18-2016, 11:56 AM   #47
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How many people here have had the infamous "fuel pump chirp"?

Kinda not digging the sound of that.
Has this been resolved in newer models?


It's one of those things that comes on then sometimes goes. You have to keep in mind all cars with direct injection (diesel cars too) have their sound. With this car it's less not the typical tapping but a chirp from the fuel pump that (when it happens) only occurs when the car is idling and pronounce in confined areas/hood open. That being said, unless your car is idling at a drive through all day it's not such a big deal.


There's no exact cause/fix. Members on the forum have replaced the fuel pump for the chirps to return, tried different gas, or just waited them out to go away. Go to youtube or find a twin to see for yourself. Once again not a deal breaker -if you want a totally silent car avoid sporty ones.
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Old 01-19-2016, 10:43 AM   #48
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'13 BRZ with about 87,000 miles, owned for almost 3 years. Only issues were the cam plate leak and the tail light gaskets which I fixed myself, the car hasn't been back to the dealer since the day I picked it up. I drive it over 120 miles a day through a mix of back roads and highways and I track it a few times a year. I'm still happy with it.
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Old 01-19-2016, 11:12 AM   #49
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2013, 19,887 miles, moderately modified, drive it fairly easily on the street, beat the hell out of it on the track. No problems. Got a new tranny under warranty because I knew they would, only because 5th gear was a little bit notchy.
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Old 01-20-2016, 08:10 AM   #50
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2013 bought new in July. Stock daily driver. 90,000 miles. I love this car.
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Old 01-20-2016, 08:45 AM   #51
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'13 BRZ with about 87,000 miles, owned for almost 3 years. Only issues were the cam plate leak and the tail light gaskets which I fixed myself, the car hasn't been back to the dealer since the day I picked it up. I drive it over 120 miles a day through a mix of back roads and highways and I track it a few times a year. I'm still happy with it.
Did you replace with after market gasket? How many miles before cam leak? My 13 has 45k on it
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Old 01-20-2016, 09:29 AM   #52
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Did you replace with after market gasket? How many miles before cam leak? My 13 has 45k on it
The leak was early on. I replaced the gaskets with these: http://gasketninja.com/
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Old 01-20-2016, 10:28 AM   #53
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Posting under the assumption that you want both good and bad.

The car is not perfect.

If you go for a test drive, let me know what you think about the passenger side C pillar blind-spot.

In the same vein, the car is no fun to back up because of the sloped back window and high deck. I believe new ones have a camera?

The traction control nannies? Dealer is not going to let you explore the limits, but you should. Turning them off before every drive is not the perfect answer.

Mine is early 2013 model. I trust the build quality issues have have been sorted by now. Early cars literally talk to you. The window switch on the DS is particularly vocal.

Not in its element in cold climates but hey, no sports-car really is.

The audio system is really not up to the job. And I have very low expectations of a radio other than that it should receive a signal. Guessing the builder figured it was going to get replace with aftermarket anyways, so why bother?

The engine is a jewel designed for the car. It works just fine. Don't ask it to do much more and you should be fine also. I would not track this engine or modify for more power as the designers did not leave much margin.

Highly recommend that you DO NOT buy one that has been modded if buying used.

For us Northern drivers, the question of how rust resistant they are going to be in the long run (say 10 years?) will be answered in the next few years.

In Canada, we pay $.85 more per gallon of Premium Gasoline (91 octane) over Regular 87 octane . That wears thin after a while.

Overall, it is a cheap car crammed with features that had to be built to a low cost and as long as your expectations fall in line , you will be quite happy with how it drives. It IS a pleasure to drive.
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Old 01-20-2016, 11:16 AM   #54
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The leak was early on. I replaced the gaskets with these: http://gasketninja.com/
So only the gasket and not the plate? I saw where many replaced whole plate that has a better gasket. Checking my options if it does happen
Thx

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Old 01-20-2016, 11:48 AM   #55
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Slo only the gasket and not the plate? I saw where many replaced whole plate that has a better gasket. Checking my options if it does happen
Thx
Those gaskets are for the tail lights. For the cam plate I used the raceseng one.
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Old 01-20-2016, 03:47 PM   #56
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Great

Whiteout '13 frs...off the dealer 2012...39xxx Having a blast... No problems except me bitting a trans hub bolt( changed spring, local shop lowered trans mount for a retap)... Occasional, but out of the nothing (like 1-3 times a year, the car would do the idle dip, but no change in car's performance, have a spare throwout bearing cause i do have crunchy clutch pedal occasionally... Normal person might not notice, oil changes are a so easy that fu&$' i do it every 3-4 depending on how i behaved with the car those miles...adjusted pedal and removed spring... It does leaves clutch pedal kind of loose resting but worth the clutch feel.... Warranty left rear lights replaced...dyno runs aspirated tuned uel header and front tomei front pipe and overpipe..2,5 perrin catback resonated, intake spacers and drop in k&n filter... It would do them all day long... Much faster car...lesss top end power with spacers but better gains in lows and mids.... I installed a couple of things, shortshift and along with hubcententric spacers and whole exhaust... NST whole pulleys...painted tail lights red... HT lip kit was very friendly to install...( needs someone else to do it jeje)...The hotchiks springs (1" drop feels like stock on bumps and shit) and fog light kit with switch inside were done by my local shop... Today, after 2 years i added a little of stock blue coolant, 80s-90s all year takes its toll nd reservoir of the car is not a pressurized one so ... The car is great!!! Will do the TOB soon... And reinstal trd shortshifter, cause i know a can a better shifting feel reinstalling...so easy jejeje
Hope all of yours are do well too.
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