Alignment opinions

[Jajanken86]

Got an alignment and debating whether I should try again at a different shop or not.
Only mods are camber bolts up front, SPC on the lower and the OEM lower bolts swapped to the top, lowered on TRD springs. If it affects alignment slightly due to weight, I went in with a full tank of gas, removed spare tire and tools, and have a driver side single exit exhaust. Wondering if it's normal that the rear camber is uneven? They didn't want to try at least evening it out even if it is unadjustable stock. And is caster able to be evened out? They did not want to try as well. The mechanic also couldn't get the front camber bolts loose, so ultimately all they did was change toe. They typed on the invoice that if I can loosen and retighten the camber bolts they'll be willing to redo the adjustments for free, but is it worth trying again with them?

[Capt Spaulding]

If they can’t loosen the camber bolts, I’d look elsewhere. And I’d consider asking for a refund.

[strat61caster]

They couldn't loosen camber bolts and didn't talk to you about parts needed to get the alignment you want? I'd go elsewhere unless there's locals who recommend the shop and they just treated you like a rando.


They're not wrong about just doing toe in the rear, you'll need adjustable lca to even out rear camber like spc or white line or other. Most people leave caster alone, you can either adjust with a top hat/camber plate or with a lower control arm (I haven't seen any that are Street friendly though) but four tenths isn't alarming.

[TommyW]

Get camber plates. Best mod.

[Jajanken86]

Without LCA though is it really not possible to at least even out camber in the rear? I'm ok with either -1.4 or -2.6 that they got if it could be even. I was more picky about camber in the front, looking for -2.5 so I was pretty bothered by them not doing anything about that.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by Jajanken86

Without LCA though is it really not possible to at least even out camber in the rear? I'm ok with either -1.4 or -2.6 that they got if it could be even. I was more picky about camber in the front, looking for -2.5 so I was pretty bothered by them not doing anything about that.

No. You could try cramming camber bolts into the arm but that's not 'approved' by anyone and you'd at best even out the two for around -2 degrees

Asking for -2.5 and they didn't even loosen the camber bolts, run away from that shop.

[Ultramaroon]

Call Trackside Motorsports. Garth and crew are worth every penny for the special touch. I am notoriously distrustful of "professionals." He's willing to put up with my annoying questions, and I am thrilled to pay him generously for his time.


He's absolutely one of the rare good guys out there.

[Decep]

The place i go to doesn't bat an eye at aftermarket adjustable parts (top hats, rear lower control arms, camber bolts).. you need to go to a different shop and one that specializes in performance cars. They do charge extra which is understandable since it takes longer than just setting the factory toe (150 vs 100$)

[Grady]

Go to a performance shop if you want a special alignment. They are correct on stock suspension that rear camber is not adjustable. Also front caster is not adjustable. Whiteline eccentric rear upper bushing will probably give you enough to even out the rear camber. You will probably end up somewhere around -2. It is a bitch to adjust with those lower control arms are the better choice. That split in caster on the front is nothing.

[Jajanken86]

The place I went to was supposedly a reputable import tuner shop, which makes things even more surprising. I'll be trying out another shop. I read in another thread that if you don't want to buy LCA just yet and if the shop is willing, they can loosen things in the rear and nudge things especially around the bushings to even out the camber. In practice though, how well does that go? And is the camber difference of -1.4 and -2.6 a big deal? Haven't found another thread saying they ended up with -2.6 after an inch of lowering.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Jajanken86

The place I went to was supposedly a reputable import tuner shop, which makes things even more surprising. I'll be trying out another shop. I read in another thread that if you don't want to buy LCA just yet and if the shop is willing, they can loosen things in the rear and nudge things especially around the bushings to even out the camber. In practice though, how well does that go? And is the camber difference of -1.4 and -2.6 a big deal? Haven't found another thread saying they ended up with -2.6 after an inch of lowering.

Loosening and retightening might change things, but it is likely to shift. I don't think I would want to do it that way as camber has a big effect on toe in the rear of the car, and if the camber shifts you will really be compromising the alignment. I'd just live with it if you are only driving on the street, if it bugs you get some SPC LCA's and get it evened out.

I honestly stopped going to shops for alignments and just do it myself anymore. Nobody I trust close by, I had one shop that didn't bother to tell me that my toe links didn't have enough adjustment at the camber I was running, so the car spent a year toe'd out in the rear and was absolutely killing tires and very twitchy. It is a PITA and typically my wheel is slightly off center but the car drives fine so

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

I honestly stopped going to shops for alignments and just do it myself anymore.

I need to learn this skill!

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

I need to learn this skill!

I can show you, but it is a pain in the ass. It would be a lot easier on stock suspension without so much adjustment. I really need to build a jig that bolts to the car so that I can string it. Using toe plates is a lot harder. rice_classic did a writeup on it in his T4 build thread.

[strat61caster]

Loosening and re tightening doesn't move things by more then about a tenth of a degree.

If you're just Street driving the rear camber difference is fine. I wouldn't want to autocross or track on it though.

Edit: setting up for a diy alignment check is such a pain in the ass I'm happy to pay $120 once or twice a year to have someone else hit the numbers I want. It takes me at least an hour to get a reading and a half hour or more to make an adjustment depending on what needs to be done.