Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[brandonblt2]

Originally Posted by Jeff86

Welp... mine's the new type. lol

Did you actually test for vacuum leaks with a smoke machine? Hose clamp every vacuum line and start there. Problem still not solved try cleaning the MAP sensor. If doing those things does solve your problem then I would do the following in this order.

- reset throttle body position sensor theres a guide online on how to do it.
- clean throttle body
- fuel injector cleaner
- manually remove port injectors and clean.
- check for any exhaust leaks between the header and block.
- check o2 sensor is working
- check fuel pump pressure

I would start there first since it's inexpensive testing.

[GPhilly]

Originally Posted by Colin86

My car has had intermediate idle issues and it's always been a failing bypass valve. Have replaced it three times now over nearly ten years and roughly 10k miles. Hoping this new larger bypass lasts longer. For what it's worth Zach's new tunes through CSG seem better than ever, but the idle issue I've experienced haven't been tune related.



I don't have the DESS module, but I have the flex fuel module and the bluetooth has failed as far as I can tell. Although it's the opposite, it's still sending good ethanol content signal (so far) to the ECU.

So after upgrading the clutch and driving normally for a few weeks, my car is feeling great. My OEM clutch was very worn down and it seems like the upgraded clutch restored the clamping force needed and I haven't experienced any more issues. Super weird, but can't complain.

I did take other precautionary measures by recleaning the MAF sensor and replacing the manifold gaskets to brand new ones.

Ran the car on the dyno and making normal HP for my setup at 270whp. Rest of the setup is Catless JDL UEL Headers, JDL FP High Flow Cat, Perrin 2.5 resonated catback.

[Colin86]

Originally Posted by GPhilly

So after upgrading the clutch and driving normally for a few weeks, my car is feeling great. My OEM clutch was very worn down and it seems like the upgraded clutch restored the clamping force needed and I haven't experienced any more issues. Super weird, but can't complain.

I did take other precautionary measures by recleaning the MAF sensor and replacing the manifold gaskets to brand new ones.

Ran the car on the dyno and making normal HP for my setup at 270whp. Rest of the setup is Catless JDL UEL Headers, JDL FP High Flow Cat, Perrin 2.5 resonated catback.

I must be lucky. I'm still on stock clutch and dyno'd at 330whp on e85 on a dynojet. Roughly 5-10 track days and 10k miles at that power level as well as a few drag strip passes, total mileage is 30k. Bought a replacement clutch a few years ago but haven't taken the time to swap it out.

[Colin86]

Originally Posted by Jeff86

Welp... mine's the new type. lol

I also have a MAP bypass, might be worth a shot.

[dpfarr]

My car has been doing at stop lights and signs sometimes. Very strange behavior the last couple days.

Haven’t had time to look under the hood or do any diagnostics and logs.

My ideas are looking at boost solenoid, I would guess I might have old version. Looking at ecutek for fuel pressure to characterize fuel pump or injector issues.

Haven’t looked at ethanol content, but will tomorrow. Maybe it was a shitty tank?

[bigB]

I have a 2014 that I put the SC on it at around 15k miles in I think 2016. Now I have 64k miles on it. I am just running the carb legal tune, but in my opinion this mod transformed the car from a good car to a great one.

Without the SC, the car was okay when you drove it hard and kept the revs high. But unless you are on the track, who drives around at redline all the time? So normal driving you are usually in the 3k to 4k rpm range, which is smack in the middle of the torque dip. When on the freeway unless you dropped down to 3rd, stepping on the gas mostly just caused the car to get louder. With the SC that has all changed, and although the power increase at max is moderate, it is much more at mid rpms, it feels like twice as much power there. It has just made the car that much more fun to drive.

I know that I could make more power with further mods, but I am trying to keep it reliable. I have had a few problems, but nothing too serious. I am also an old guy, and I no longer want to do any mods that wind up on the wrong end of the law or smog. I did plenty in my younger days, so those of you that do I certainly understand, but man it can be a hassle. I even got pulled over and a ticket for no front license plate once, I think just because my car was obviously modified but that was all she could come up with to cite me for. So although I didn’t want to put screw holes in my bumper, I do have a front plate with the mount in the tow hook hole just to be 100% legal.

I had to smog my car last year and had no trouble doing so with the carb eo number. And I really appreciate the look of this kit, it is very professional (almost looks like an oem unit).

To those of you that have posted here with technical issues, you have my thanks. It has been a great assistance to me in finding and fixing the problems I have had. I’ll post some more on my experience and repairs later.

[HotRodPA]

Just got a new SC kit installed, loaded the tune sent by Delicious, and here is where things get tricky. The car will start, the revs begin to drop, and the car dies, all of this takes about 5 seconds or less. It will remain on for longer if I keep it from dying if I give I use the gas pedal, but will die immediately if I stop. This can be replicated over and over again. Triple/quadrupled checked that all the lines and wires are as per the instructions. The only CEL I can sometimes pull is a P0451.

Mods are as follows:
DT flex-fuel kit
DW 700c injectors
DW 300c fuel pump
JDL UEL
ACT clutch
Edelbrock SC

Reaching out to Edelbrock and Delicious for advice as well. I'm hoping this is something stupid I missed, but I could use the extra brain power. Thank you guys!

[ABQautoxer]

Have any of you sold your supercharged twin? I've put mine up for sale but being a niche item I'm not sure I'm advertising it in the right spots.

[B T]

So, I ran into an issue where my car wasn't experiencing full acceleration on a regular basis. At first I thought it was throttle body not opening all the way as throttle body failures have been documented. ECUTEK showed the pedal the throttle were in alignment with one another. Bypass actuator tested good, I was lost. Went to take apart today and discovered the bypass valve itself was stuck open. Apparently the shaft will develop longitudinal play causing the plate to stick on the side of the casting and not close when out of vacuum. If you are in there anytime soon, I suggest you go ahead and add a shim to keep this from happening in the future. You'll need something high temp, 10.5mm ID(or slightly more), 12-13mm OD and 10mm thick to do the job. The problem was intermittent and drove me nuts. Also, figured out why my first engine blew, it was due to a certain tuning company who's name starts with a D having their ethanol sensor spit out garbage after overheating itself in the engine bay. My ethanol sensor went out, but didn't unplug it. Went on an out of town drive and just like clockwork, 2.5 hours in, I started getting major bucking. My MAF and timing were going nuts. Unplugged the unit and it drove perfectly fine. This is exactly what happened when my first engine blew while on cruise control on a long distance drive. Just a heads up to anyone using the D company for ethanol content sensing.

[FrickingReallySlow]

Originally Posted by B T

Apparently the shaft will develop longitudinal play causing the plate to stick on the side of the casting and not close when out of vacuum. If you are in there anytime soon, I suggest you go ahead and add a shim to keep this from happening in the future.

Any pics or videos of the play in question? is this the shaft of the actuator or the shaft of the butterfly valve inside the supercharger?

[FrickingReallySlow]

Took this weekend to modify the remote MAP setup. The problem with the remote MAP was also remote temp sensor which heat soaked and took forever to get back to what the intercooler was seeing. I did a test after a 30mins drive, park the car for 30min and start it again and monitor the Remote TMAP temp and then the TMAP temp in the runner. the temp of of the TMAP in the runner would very quickly (15min highway driving) come down from 140F to +25F above ambient (67F) whereas the remote TMAP temperature would take close to 1hr of highway driving to slowly equalize to the intercooler/runner temp. So using the temp sensor in the remote TMAP would lose you a lot of ignition timing if you start the car from a heat soaked state (basically if you stopped to get groceries and drove off afterwards). You wouldn't actually notice this from a cold start in the morning.

Since I bought another TMAP sensor for the test anyways I wired the temp only to the MAF T connection (green wire + yellow wire) and then disconnected the TMAP from the entire harness so its just use the 3 wire to 4 wire cable. This also allowed me to shorted the hose to the remote MAP. Here's a picture for reference, my remote map is now by the firewall wrapped in a shop towel by the firewall until I find a way to secure it firmly. Pretty simple mod, minimal soldering skills, make sure to connect the runner TMAP GND to the MAF sensor GND (yellow wire) and just reuse the green wire that's already in the edelbrock harness

[Teseo]

Originally Posted by ABQautoxer

Have any of you sold your supercharged twin? I've put mine up for sale but being a niche item I'm not sure I'm advertising it in the right spots.

Depending how much you want... Ebay or here in the classified?

[B T]

Originally Posted by FrickingReallySlow

Any pics or videos of the play in question? is this the shaft of the actuator or the shaft of the butterfly valve inside the supercharger?

It was the shaft of the butterfly valve itself. I'm only on my 2nd vacuum actuator, been lucky to not have as many problems as others. Sorry, not pics but it was about 1/4 inch total movement.

[B T]

For those of you running the remote MAP sensor located on the edelbrock supercharger, i did a mod to bring down the reported IATs closer to where they should be and it seems to have worked. I was regularly seeing falsely reported temps up to 80 Deg F over ambient which we know just isn't correct.

The Fix:
I did two things at once but the main thing is applying a layer of aluminum silicone sealant between the remote map and the intake runner to stop heat transfer to the MAP block. Super easy fix. Just let it gel and harden a little bit before reinstalling the block. you just need a thin layer maybe 1 mm thick.
Secondly, I cut cooling fins into the remote MAP block to dissipate any heat that was built up. I'm not sure this helped much, but I thought it was worth a shot. Just cute some slots around it using a bandsaw. It's ugly, but whatever.