INSTALLED || Blitz Racing Oil Cooler Kit RD for FRS/BRZ

[mav1178]

Will be installing this on my car soon, most likely after the engine goes under the knife for warranty work.

Some nice features of this Blitz oil cooler are:

• Built-in thermostat
• Cooler has air guides that help direct airflow (or you can build your own blockoff plate for street use)
• Oil filter block has multiple 1/8PT holes for various sensors. Oil pressure, temp, etc.
• Complete packaging out of box.

http://www.blitzna.com/oil-cooler-ki...r-zn6-zc6.html
http://www.blitz.co.jp/products/cool...ler_rs_rd.html




-alex

Kit contents:
The Blitz oil cooler kit is pretty comprehensive and includes all hardware needed to properly mount it on your car.


The kit includes air guides that maximize efficiency of the oil cooler. I suspect that if you want to use it on the streets, a block off plate can easily be fabricated to restrict airflow to the core.

Cooler core & air guide install:
The instructions are pretty straightforward for the air guide and brackets, so I won't detail them here. I should note that the 8x 10mm bolts on each corner of the cooler core should be hand tight to allow you to adjust the cooler core location once it's on the car.





















Assembled cooler:

Prep work on car:
A few things need to be removed or modified on the car for the cooler to mount properly.

The following need to be removed:
Air guides (left/right)
Air box intake tube
Air guide (top)
Front bumper bottom cover
Front bumper bracket







Next, the front horn bracket will need to be removed and the front horn will need to be relocated.
Here's the bracket that you need to remove:


The horn is relocated to another location on the passenger side, behind the fog light area. There is an unused hole and Blitz supplies an extra nut/bolt to mount the horn. The instructions basically tell you to 1) rotate the existing rear horn, 2)bolt the front horn, and 3) cut the harness shielding open so you can plug in the horn.
Apply electrical tape after you are done so the area is cleaned up.




The ambient air temperature sensor needs to be reoriented so it sits upside down.

Oil cooler core install:

The core mounts to the car at 3 hard points. One is on the bumper support, two are on the actual frame of the car.
Given the tight fit, if your car has been in a wreck previously or you suspect the front end may be compromised, this is not the oil cooler kit for you.

Mounting points:




The cooler needs to have sufficient clearance for the two oil line fittings to be installed. It is recommended that you tighten the bolts after you've figured out clearance.

This one is key:


Tighten bolts when you've figured out the proper location.

Oil filter spacer and adapter:
The adapter mounts on top of the stock filter location. O-rings and proper plugs are supplied in case you are not running any sensors for gauges. The thread is 1/8 PT and there are a total of 6 locations for sensor feed.


I took the opportunity and wired up some gauges. Oil pressure and oil temperature.


As is the case with oil filter installation, apply a tiny bit of oil on the O-rings so they don't bind when torquing down.

Oil line installation:

The oil lines come with plastic sleeves so you can protect the steel braided lines from cuts.
Which line goes on which outlet does not matter, as the oil will pass the core no matter which outlet you use. I followed the instructions supplied with the kit.

First, install the longest line:


The line runs around the windshield wiper fluid reservoir. Tuck it in front of the AC condensor.



Lastly, run it up to the passenger side of the cooler core and mount it on the fitting.


The shorter line feeds to the drivers side of the cooler core.


Tuck it under the headlight. The rest of the line sits on top of the bumper support.

Misc items:

A portion of the left side OEM air guide will need to be cut out to clear the oil line.


Reinstalled:



A portion of the front bumper bracket will need to be trimmed so that the oil cooler can clear. You will see where you need to cut once you put the bracket back on the car.



Installed on the car (minus front bumper):



There are 5 items that are permanently removed off the car after you are done. Passenger side OEM air guide, 10mm bolt (for horn bracket), horn bracket, plastic elbow guard (for horn harness), and the horn harness plastic clip.

External view:

[LOLS2K]

This should be good

[xero404]

I have one of these and its been on for over a year with no problems! Braided lines and preinstalled AN fittings give me a piece of mind that there will be NO LEAKS.

[Clipdat]

Can anyone explain this benefit: "Built-in thermostat"

Does this mean that on short trips it won't try to overly cool your oil?

[ryoma]

don't most oil coolers come with a thermostat in the adapter plate? it definitely looks like a quality piece though, and I wouldn't expect anything less for that price tag too. I'm curious what those plates are for though. they look nice

Originally Posted by Clipdat

Can anyone explain this benefit: "Built-in thermostat"

Does this mean that on short trips it won't try to overly cool your oil?

the thermostat opens when the oil reaches a certain temperature in order to start cooling the oil. however, many people state that even with the thermostat closed, there is still a slight flow of oil through the cooler so most people just block it off during the winter so the oil reaches temp easier

[go_a_way1]

Originally Posted by Clipdat

Can anyone explain this benefit: "Built-in thermostat"

Does this mean that on short trips it won't try to overly cool your oil?

A thermostat will just prevent most of the oil from going to the core until it reaches the preset temperature then more oil will be diverted to the core to maintain a desired temperature. I run a 190ish thermostat on my car. The reason you want one is to heat the oil up faster otherwise it would take a long time to warm up.

[xero404]

Warming up the car on idle does take a bit longer. Once warmed up and On the freeway I'm usually in the operating range of 180-200f range so no worries of overcooling. The plates are for the duct around the cooler

[go_a_way1]

Originally Posted by ryoma

don't most oil coolers come with a thermostat in the adapter plate? it definitely looks like a quality piece though, and I wouldn't expect anything less for that price tag too. I'm curious what those plates are for though. they look nice



the thermostat opens when the oil reaches a certain temperature in order to start cooling the oil. however, many people state that even with the thermostat closed, there is still a slight flow of oil through the cooler so most people just block it off during the winter so the oil reaches temp easier

Haha you beat me to it! In my sandwich plate the thermostat is normally open closes when it warms up. The oil flows right through for the most part but when it starts to close around 190 F more oil is forced to go to the core and is cooled then back to the sandwich plate on the other side and up into the oil filter. When I reach about 220+ its fully closed and all the oil goes to the core and the temps don't get much hotter then that.

Oil will always flow to the core but not much until it warms up. In the winter I remove the thermostat all together (as it takes a little space where the oil by passes even when fully open i.e. cold oil) my car warms up nearly as fast a stock and hold 190F sames as coolant temps unless I really go hard on it in -20C

Sorry if I cant spell I am on my phone and dont want to re read this haha

[Clipdat]

Interesting, thanks for sharing your experiences. What kit do you have exactly?

I've been wanting to get an oil cooler for a while, ever since I first laid eyes on the Perrin oil cooler, which to me looks like a really nice setup.

This is only the second oil cooler which has made me as excited as I was about the Perrin. The design looks great and I like the ducting to direct the air onto the core.

Looking forward to hearing the OP's review!

Originally Posted by go_a_way1

Haha you beat me to it! In my sandwich plate the thermostat is normally open closes when it warms up. The oil flows right through for the most part but when it starts to close around 190 F more oil is forced to go to the core and is cooled then back to the sandwich plate on the other side and up into the oil filter. When I reach about 220+ its fully closed and all the oil goes to the core and the temps don't get much hotter then that.

[go_a_way1]

Originally Posted by Clipdat

Interesting, thanks for sharing your experiences. What kit do you have exactly?

I've been wanting to get an oil cooler for a while, ever since I first laid eyes on the Perrin oil cooler, which to me looks like a really nice setup.

This is only the second oil cooler which has made me as excited as I was about the Perrin. The design looks great and I like the ducting to direct the air onto the core.

Looking forward to hearing the OP's review!

Blitz is a good brand so I am sure this kit will be great! I run a custom Mishomoto kit. You really dont need ducting for a street car but it would be really nice for a track car.

[ryoma]

I wonder how this mounts up. if I recall correctly, the Perrin cooler mounts to the plastic undertray of the bumper which I am not a fan of.

[mav1178]

The thermostat inside this unit opens at 75C, which is after the coolant thermostat opens. Just like the coolant thermostat, it prevents oil from circulating to the cooler core until it reaches operating temperature.

Originally Posted by ryoma

I wonder how this mounts up. if I recall correctly, the Perrin cooler mounts to the plastic undertray of the bumper which I am not a fan of.

Bolted to chassis, various bracket locations under the bumper support on the passenger side.

-alex

[mav1178]

Pictures from the Blitz NA Flickr account:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/137904...57660365503073

-alex

[Clipdat]

Bump for updates.