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Old 10-16-2018, 10:23 PM   #29
GrabTheWheel
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Originally Posted by Sportsguy83 View Post
KAB Customs in North Lauderdale. They did my swap (LS2/TR6060 and Pure Motec) and are finishing an LS3 FRS as we speak. Great individuals with fair pricing.



The differential has been proven to hold 800 whp and 700ish torque, so that's fine.

In my case, I already had suspension, brakes, 600 hp rated axles, bigger radiator, 275 tires, a vented hood, just upgraded to 1300 CFM dual fans. The car drives and performs great. Yes, I will not be hitting the track ever weekend, as I am first and foremost NOT interested on it, but I wouldn't for a second doubt about taking this car to the track and thrashing it. I've said this before, but 99% of owners do not track their cars, and the other 1% most of them do not race at the track competitively, they do it for fun on an HPDE event with no times or competition. The car would do fine on those type of events.

I'm not saying you're wrong, your corvette is definitely worlds above a better car from the groundup to take the abuse, but for people who cannot afford a 60+K sticker price on a car, swapping the car for less than half the cost of that could be a nice tradeoff. Everything has pros and cons.
I appreciate your suggestions and input! What are the biggest problems you've encountered with your swap?
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Old 10-16-2018, 11:18 PM   #30
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I appreciate your suggestions and input! What are the biggest problems you've encountered with your swap?
I think the most important part of the swap is to educate yourself a whole lot before diving into it. Unless you have an open checkbook, then I would say ship it to Pure Automotive, they've done plenty of swaps and have nailed down both the hardware and the software.

I lost a lot of time and wasted some money because there was some stuff I needed to figure out as I went, I did not have everything readily available and some things you just learn as you go. I thought the slim fans and shroud everyone sells are enough, but in my particular case, when it's 99 degrees outside with AC on, the slim fans could not keep up, thus I needed to upgrade to 1300 cfm fans. That is just an example of "wasted money" because I didn't have the knowledge. If anyone asked me today, I'd say go with the bigger fans from the get-go. I also learned this 40ish% more powerful fans work with the stock wiring, the fuse just needs to be changed from 25A to 30A. I also went with a lover temperature thermostat, which has helped tremendously and the car runs a lot better with it, temps. stay in check.

I've learned that there is no bolt on and go and no plug and play package will be absolutely plug and play with zero issues, although some will have vey minor stuff to do custom (Motec), while others will involve a lot of custom wiring and some others advertised as plug and play are really a shithole garbage...

I bought some unnecesary fittings here and there, because I didn't know which ones worked at the end. I learned that choosing an ECU option is only half the battle, as finding a tuner for it might be more challenging. I learned that the 4.10 stock final drive is too much, and you are way better served with the 3.73 from the IS300.

Those are all just examples. Once the car is back together and all the little issues are sorted out, the car is a lot of fun. easy to drive, sounds sick, the torque is intoxicating. but the road to get there will have some frustrating spots for sure (again unless we're talking about an open checkbook, send the car to Pure and forget about anything else).
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Old 10-17-2018, 10:57 PM   #31
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If you throw enough money at it, anything can be made fast and reliable. Remember the old saying? Fast, cheap, reliable. You can have any two of the three you want.

The only challenge you may face is cooling, but with enough vents and heat exchangers, you should be okay- so long as you don't try to make 700hp or something.

Good luck. Sounds like fun.
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Old 10-18-2018, 08:47 PM   #32
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Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread! Car is being shipped to Pure possibly as soon as next week.

Curious for those who swapped have you found the need for an axle upgrade?

Should I go used or new LS3? Leaning towards new

Who has experience with the TR6060 vs Magnum XL? pros and cons of each I know the Magnum holds more torque but my power goals are modest just looking for 450-500 whp

I did have a 4.56 final drive in the car. Definitley going down from there to something like a 3.73

I'd like to have AC for now so that would mean no dry sump. Looking into aftermarket baffled oil pans. As well as having Motec pull timing during high lateral G's for an extended period of time. That is what the GM ecu does on the C7's so I figure Motec must have that feature.
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Old 10-18-2018, 10:02 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by GrabTheWheel View Post
Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread! Car is being shipped to Pure possibly as soon as next week.

Curious for those who swapped have you found the need for an axle upgrade?

Should I go used or new LS3? Leaning towards new

Who has experience with the TR6060 vs Magnum XL? pros and cons of each I know the Magnum holds more torque but my power goals are modest just looking for 450-500 whp

I did have a 4.56 final drive in the car. Definitley going down from there to something like a 3.73

I'd like to have AC for now so that would mean no dry sump. Looking into aftermarket baffled oil pans. As well as having Motec pull timing during high lateral G's for an extended period of time. That is what the GM ecu does on the C7's so I figure Motec must have that feature.
Axle upgrade is recommended, the torque is able to eat the stock ones easily.

I have a TR-6060, like it a lot, have no complains on it. Got it used with 90k miles.

Definitely need to lower the final drive. I ran it initially with the 4.10 and it was neck snapping through the first gears and the were extremely short. Got a good deal on an IS300 3.73 and the car is a dream to drive now. Love it.
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Old 10-18-2018, 10:08 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by GrabTheWheel View Post
Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread! Car is being shipped to Pure possibly as soon as next week.

Curious for those who swapped have you found the need for an axle upgrade?

Should I go used or new LS3? Leaning towards new

Who has experience with the TR6060 vs Magnum XL? pros and cons of each I know the Magnum holds more torque but my power goals are modest just looking for 450-500 whp

I did have a 4.56 final drive in the car. Definitley going down from there to something like a 3.73

I'd like to have AC for now so that would mean no dry sump. Looking into aftermarket baffled oil pans. As well as having Motec pull timing during high lateral G's for an extended period of time. That is what the GM ecu does on the C7's so I figure Motec must have that feature.
Off topic but...

Can i get your 4.56 final drive when you gonna get rid of it?..... lol #reserved
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Old 10-18-2018, 10:39 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrabTheWheel View Post
Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread! Car is being shipped to Pure possibly as soon as next week.

Curious for those who swapped have you found the need for an axle upgrade?

Should I go used or new LS3? Leaning towards new

Who has experience with the TR6060 vs Magnum XL? pros and cons of each I know the Magnum holds more torque but my power goals are modest just looking for 450-500 whp

I did have a 4.56 final drive in the car. Definitley going down from there to something like a 3.73

I'd like to have AC for now so that would mean no dry sump. Looking into aftermarket baffled oil pans. As well as having Motec pull timing during high lateral G's for an extended period of time. That is what the GM ecu does on the C7's so I figure Motec must have that feature.
Smart move, sending it to Pure. Should save you alot off headaches. Buy a new motor if you can swing it to try eliminate unknown issues with a used motor.

I have a Ford 8.8 rear, which can handle a ton of power. I’m running a 3.55 gear, and think it feels great. With the 3.55, power is useable everywhere...even first gear on 285/30r18’s (24.7” tall tires) works well. I’d probably leave the rear alone and save that project for after the engine swap project is done though.

I’m running a magnum xl with a 2.66 gear set, with the 3.55 andthe 24.7” tires, it works really well...plus it fits perfectly.( with vorshlag engine mounts)

I have AC, more important to me than a dry sump but my car isn’t a race car, I’m not tracking every weekend.

As for additional functions,motec can do just about anything...pretty awesome piece of equipment, with all that you want to do, just make sure the M130, which is what Pure supplies with their kit, is enough hardware for you.

M130 has less channels than the M150, I’ve used up all of my channels and have maxed out the m130...an m150 would have better suited my needs. Example, a popular set up for motec users is to put traction control or even boost control on a dial switch to adjust up or down. After getting everything else functioning on my car equipped with an M130 I could not use a dial switch for traction control as I ran out of channels, mine could only support a 3 way switch for traction control. I have a low, medium and high setting. Which is nice but more adjustability would be nicer. I cant add a boost control dial either if I want to go turbo later...I’ll need a more capable ecu or maybe some piggy back unit.

If you have a big chunck of money to throw at the car it will be an awesome project.
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Old 10-18-2018, 11:00 PM   #36
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If you have a big chunck of money to throw at the car it will be an awesome project.
All very valid points, specially coming from someone that already did the swap and has the equipment in question.

I wanted to note that we can buy an expansion module for the M130 and add additional outputs (for boost control for example) without stepping up to the M150. But I fully agree, if money is no object and there are future plans for boost, the M150 from the start would be the best choice.
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Old 10-19-2018, 02:52 PM   #37
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All very valid points, specially coming from someone that already did the swap and has the equipment in question.

I wanted to note that we can buy an expansion module for the M130 and add additional outputs (for boost control for example) without stepping up to the M150. But I fully agree, if money is no object and there are future plans for boost, the M150 from the start would be the best choice.
I don't think I will ever boost this car. If anything some point down the road I would strip the interior and cage the car. Things like a flex fuel sensor and a knob for traction control as well as https://store.schnitzracing.com/mote...elerometer-5g/ would definitley be things I'd want. I am going to confirm with Brady on the M130 vs M150 but do you guys think it's something I should get?

I am going with a crate LS3 and Magnum XL with 2.66 ratio. I'm trying to track down a 3.73 final drive otherwise I will go 3.9. The OS Giken LSD was one of my favorite mods done to the car and I'm hoping I'll be equally pleased with how it will work with the LS3.

Other things I'm considering is a Radium surge tank setup. Please let me know if anything else comes to mind!
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Old 10-19-2018, 02:55 PM   #38
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Smart move, sending it to Pure. Should save you alot off headaches. Buy a new motor if you can swing it to try eliminate unknown issues with a used motor.

I have a Ford 8.8 rear, which can handle a ton of power. I’m running a 3.55 gear, and think it feels great. With the 3.55, power is useable everywhere...even first gear on 285/30r18’s (24.7” tall tires) works well. I’d probably leave the rear alone and save that project for after the engine swap project is done though.

I’m running a magnum xl with a 2.66 gear set, with the 3.55 andthe 24.7” tires, it works really well...plus it fits perfectly.( with vorshlag engine mounts)

I have AC, more important to me than a dry sump but my car isn’t a race car, I’m not tracking every weekend.

As for additional functions,motec can do just about anything...pretty awesome piece of equipment, with all that you want to do, just make sure the M130, which is what Pure supplies with their kit, is enough hardware for you.

M130 has less channels than the M150, I’ve used up all of my channels and have maxed out the m130...an m150 would have better suited my needs. Example, a popular set up for motec users is to put traction control or even boost control on a dial switch to adjust up or down. After getting everything else functioning on my car equipped with an M130 I could not use a dial switch for traction control as I ran out of channels, mine could only support a 3 way switch for traction control. I have a low, medium and high setting. Which is nice but more adjustability would be nicer. I cant add a boost control dial either if I want to go turbo later...I’ll need a more capable ecu or maybe some piggy back unit.

If you have a big chunck of money to throw at the car it will be an awesome project.
What are you using the available channels for on your M130? Thanks for your input!
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Old 10-19-2018, 10:08 PM   #39
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Off topic but...

Can i get your 4.56 final drive when you gonna get rid of it?..... lol #reserved
Hey, as soon as it's out of the car and available I'll send you a message!
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Old 10-19-2018, 10:12 PM   #40
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What are you using the available channels for on your M130? Thanks for your input!
Running all the normal things, you’d expect, AC....And then a 3 stage traction control and 91/100 octane tunes....I added a separate module to handle reverse lock out, because at the time the firmware did not address reverse lockout....and had to eliminate the flex fuel channel to do the 3 stage traction control. There are different types of channels available for certain functions...it gets a bit more technical than I can understand/explain.
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Old 10-20-2018, 01:26 PM   #41
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Ive got 6k fun miles on my build and still going strong! I love it. I went with all new parts. Crate ls3, t56 magnum with 2.66 drive. Once you get it dialed in, and running smoothly, its an amazing ride.
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Old 10-20-2018, 09:21 PM   #42
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Who’s running a big cam and if so which one and how do you like it?
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