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01-25-2015, 04:41 AM | #1 |
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what is the optimal rim and tire size for 1/4 mile?
Hey guys. Wanted to know what the best rim and tire size for a 1/4mile. Brz is ~205whp naturally aspirated. Looking for best size for optimal gearing. i was thinking to go with 16x8 rims for the rear, (not sure what tire size, i was thinking to go with a smaller rolling diameter than stock) and fronts id get 16x5 rims. Thanks
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01-25-2015, 05:04 AM | #2 |
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Please don't.
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01-25-2015, 08:02 AM | #3 | |
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Why would you want smaller rolling diameter? |
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01-25-2015, 09:00 AM | #4 |
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Drag radials! Add a wheelie bar just in case
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01-25-2015, 03:38 PM | #6 |
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Wow useless info. I guess this is why no one uses the forum anymore
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01-25-2015, 04:13 PM | #7 | |
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I've seen few youtube videos, they are usually running 15 inches wheels and meaty tires. So more rubber, less metal. The more there is ground patch, then the more the power will be deliveried. In other words, 15x8.5-9 would be an ideal. However, 200 horsepower on the wheel. It won't matter as much. Running 18x8.0 will be almost equivalent to 15x8.5-9 Hope it helped. LET ME KNOW YOUR SCORES
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01-26-2015, 01:39 AM | #8 | |
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01-26-2015, 01:46 AM | #9 |
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Smaller rolling diameter is going to be easier for the engine to turn the wheels. Also faster acceleration but lower top speed in 1/4 mile. Larger diameter would be easier to hook but slower acceleration with higher top speed. Im just wondering if anyone has found the sweet spot for a 210whp brz
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01-26-2015, 01:51 AM | #10 |
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please tell me you didn't buy this for 1/4 mile
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01-26-2015, 09:22 AM | #11 | |
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01-26-2015, 09:25 AM | #12 |
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this thread is great
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01-26-2015, 09:56 AM | #13 | |
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01-26-2015, 11:10 AM | #14 |
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Ok, so drag racing isn't really what these cars are best for but that's what you want to do with it so I will go with it. I have taken mine to an 1/8th mile dragstrip and hopefully I can go back soon for a comparison now that I have bigger/better tires. I will tell you what I would do as a starting point if I was going to be drag racing this car.
Remove spare tire, tools, front passenger seat and rear seats, floor mats, owners manual, cup holder, and any junk you keep in it (go look at the weight reduction thread). Rear wheels: Enkei RPF1 17x9 offset about +40 (+/-5) Rear tires: high performance summer tires size 255/40 (or /35 or /45 whatever is available) Front wheels: Enkei RPF1 17x7 +35 Front tires: same as rear but in a 225/40ish size Run max tire pressure (or higher but only on the track) on the front and experiment with the rear tire pressure. Start at normal pressure and drop the pressure by about 1 psi at a time. Find the lightest exhaust setup that fits your budget (there's a thread that lists weights go search for it). That will mean headers, no cats, single exit, muffler delete and it will probably be loud and obnoxious as fuck. Cut up the intake snorkel, search for threads about intakes and you'll see what I'm talking about. Get a tune, either off the shelf or custom. Get a higher final drive, I know there's a 4.88 available. At this point you have spent a decent bit of money and invested quite some time (unless you paid someone to do the work, in which case more money) and you haven't really done anything that can't be reversed. The car also remains "streetable" (even if not street legal) although that is a relative term, I have daily driven a fully stripped down Honda that weighed less than 1800lbs but not everyone is as crazy as I am. If this is a dedicated track car go ahead and remove trim, carpeting, radio/speakers, a/c system, airbags, and start replacing parts with lighter components, every ounce will make a difference. Now that is if you aren't going to be using forced induction. But if you are then I would just start with wheels/tires and whatever FI system you prefer. If I wanted a fast drag car I would just go straight for FI, then worry about weight reduction later. Or even better, use a different car :P
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