01-11-2017, 02:29 AM | #561 |
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Hi, you should send them an email with a specific question, I'm sure they can give you the answer you are looking for
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01-11-2017, 09:39 AM | #562 |
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I asked for detailed specs and bias information to be published about a year ago. I was told "go find it on their website." Then I was accused of being a bad person for posting a technical question in a competitor's thread. I thought a technical question in a technical thread was valid.
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01-18-2017, 12:09 AM | #563 | |
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01-18-2017, 12:12 AM | #564 | |
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01-18-2017, 05:05 PM | #565 | |
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I suppose using OD is somewhat close, in reality pushes the bias forward, because the ED on the rear, with smaller pistons and shorter pads, is actually closer to the outside of the rotor compared to the front. It would also be less accurate comparing a bbk with big rotors and smaller pistons. An old legacy guy has a brake math spreadsheet with the effective diameters of a lot of stock brakes. I have been meaning to make some modifications to it with some aftermarket stuff and more cars. http://www.main.experiencetherave.co.../brakemath.xls |
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01-18-2017, 05:48 PM | #566 |
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I e-mailed Simon at RR Racing and he has provided me the relevant Wilwood caliper part numbers for each of the kits.
Stage 1/3: 120-11779 - http://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/Cali...o=120-11779-BK Piston Specifications Piston 1 Bore(In): 1.62 Piston 2 Bore(In): 1.12 Piston 3 Bore(In): 1.12 Total Piston Area (inē): 4.04 Stage 2/4: 120-13235, 120-13236 - http://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/Cali...emno=120-13235, http://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/Cali...emno=120-13236 Piston Specifications Piston 1 Bore(In): 1.62 Piston 2 Bore(In): 1.12 Piston 3 Bore(In): 1.12 Total Piston Area (inē): 4.04 Sport Performance: 120-11132 - http://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/Cali...emno=120-11132 Piston Specifications Piston 1 Bore(In): 1.62 Piston 2 Bore(In): 1.62 Piston 3 Bore(In): Total Piston Area (inē): 4.12 For anyone who feels like running the numbers again. |
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01-18-2017, 06:59 PM | #567 |
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That's pretty useful- they have a diagram with the pad dimensions, which are about the same for all three calipers- just a different thickness.
So pad material is about 43mm high. Divide that by two, add 1-2mm because the edge of the pad will not be exactly with the edge of the rotor, and I would call the effective radius whatever the rotor diameter divided by 2 minus 23mm. It assumes the centerline of the pistons lines up with the center of the pad material but I don't think it would be off by much. Closer than using the OD of the rotor anyway. Tonight if I feel like it I'll look up the rotor diameters and play around with the brake math spreadsheet. Guess I could even line the rotor, pad, and caliper up in cad and see what I get for effective radius that way since willwood provides the drawings. |
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01-18-2017, 09:49 PM | #568 |
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These look very promising. I have to check if these can clear my wheels. I would love these.
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01-19-2017, 04:09 PM | #569 |
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I'm running bp 10's for a while now. At first there was lots of squeal but there is much less since performing a second bleed in the system. Apparently I hadn't bled the system completely, most likely because air was trapped in the ABS system, but after activating the ABS over a few months I was able to bleed out more air, and now there is minimal squealing. I will likely perform another bleed in a few months to just make sure.
I have a few newb questions, maybe @Cartman or someone can help: 1. Are these pads normal pads, sporty street pads, street/track pads or entry level track pads? Considering they have BP 20's and 30's and stuff, I'm guessing entry level track pads, or some type of street/track pad. 2. Are most people who daily drive their car running a track or street/track pad, or are they running a normal pad like OEM style on the street, and then swapping for the track? I am looking to probably get some OEM style pads for the street. 3. Again noob question, but is it normal to get poor braking feel in the wet with bp10's (if they are track pads) or with track pads in general? I feel like these pads stop worse than OEM pads in the rain on the street. I have never really got them hot in the rain or used them on the track in the rain, so I don't know how much they change with heat, but I can tell improvement once they begin to heat up, yet like I said, I don't know if they equal dry weather performance or equal OEM pad abilities in the rain. 4. Does anyone make an OEM style (material) pad for these calipers? I saw @Cartman you said I could run a larger pad with the Ferodo 3116 pads. I'm guessing these are track pads; I need to see if they are medium or heavy use pads. Do you have a suggestion for a OEM/street pad of the larger dimension? |
01-19-2017, 07:23 PM | #570 | |
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Edit: Also, they don't last long and I'm told the BP20's are no better. I used around 75% of my pad material this summer with 3 track days, 6 autocross events and approximately 5000kms of daily driving. I expect that they will last the winter for me and that's it. I've got a set of EBC Yellowstuff and Winmax W5 pads to swap in the spring though. Thinking I'll daily on the Yellowstuff and track on the Winmax but we will see. 2. I can't say what most people do because this varies more based on what someone wants from their brake pads. Someone who is new to tracking or only tracks only once in a while and isn't interested in swapping pads for every event might prefer a dual purpose brake pad to make life easy. Someone who wants ultimate stopping power and fade resistance will go for a dedicated track pad and either live with the noise and dust on the street or swap it out between events. 3. This one is hard to answer. Personally, I haven't noticed anything in particular with my BP10s in the rain other than they tend to squeal a bit when wet compared to when dry but they perform like normal. I've even been driving with them all winter and have noticed no change in braking performance. I will note that after beating on them on track for a day and getting used to the hot bite and then letting them cool off, I find the cold bite very poor. I've noticed this after every track day. After a few days, I stop noticing it but I'm not sure if I just get used to it or if it actually improves. Seeing that you're in Cali, I just wonder if your ambient temperatures are high enough that you're starting to get into the hot bite most of the time and it only cools off enough to feel true cold bite when it rains. I can't say for sure though. 4. I know you can get Winmax W1, Hawk HPS and EBC Greenstuff which are all OEM like pads for the Wilwood calipers and I'm sure there are plenty of other options too. Most manufacturers make pads in the 7420/7416 shapes although special request/orders usually need to be made for them. Last edited by Lynxis; 01-20-2017 at 12:29 AM. Reason: adding notes that bp pads wear fast |
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01-19-2017, 08:59 PM | #571 | |
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2) I switched to EBC greenstuff for DD since its the only pad I've been able to get that doesn't squeal like a raped monkey, but it did require the use of the Wilwood shims plus the included anti squeal tape from EBC. I plan on testing Ferodo DS1.11 this year for the track along with an old set of Raybestos ST45 I have for the rear. 3) I didn't use the BP's long enough to experience them in the rain, Sorry I can't help on this. But I have not noticed any change in braking performance with the EBC pads in the rain. 4) I think EBC has almost all their pads in 7420 size, but I've read that the Carbotech 1521 are excellent pads for DD from people running the AP racing kit, which uses the same wilwood pad shape. As far as running the taller pads, I would advice against it. After 3 events I noticed that my pads are wearing much faster at the top than the bottom (e.g. Pad material -> /| <- backing plate), most likely due to the fact that the pistons only touch the upper half of the pad, also could be the cause of why I could never get them to stop squealing. |
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01-20-2017, 02:17 AM | #572 |
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I think you might be right about the performance of the pads in wet conditions being more related to the cold vs the fact that they are wet, and also it could be in my perception of the difference of the bite that goes with a warm pad.
Thanks for the info on the longer pads. To be honest, it was mostly for aesthetic changes. I'm guessing you had your resurfaced or had little wear when you switched to the other pads, right? It isn't a lip that is still creating the uneven wear, right? I think I'll just stick with these for now, and when it is time to buy new ones maybe try a dedicated street pad and a hybrid or a race only pad. Thanks. |
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01-20-2017, 05:45 AM | #573 | |
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01-21-2017, 02:56 PM | #574 | ||
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