SCCA T4 Build thread

[ermax]

The FIPG from the factory on my car was also black. I can’t recall if the pan was black though and I don’t have any photos of the pad to refresh my memory. My guess is the crap in your pan has either been there forever or is from the clean up work done with the recall. Who knows maybe they didn’t use TB1217H on the early builds which may have something to do with the bearing failures in early MY2013s. The replacement short block I got also had black FIPG. I kind of expected it to be gray.

[ka-titties]

Originally Posted by rice_classic

Since I'm one of the folks who had the valve spring recall done, I'm now crazy paranoid. I've only driven it from the dealer to my house at this point so I don't know if things are gonna go kaboom or not.

With that said - I figured I'd remove the pan and inspect.

Holy Hell! The pan was hard to get off they used SO much sealant from the factory I had to take a metal putty knife and hammer around the seam to break the stuff free as there were no good pry points along the pan. I'm so used to my Hondas which used Oil Pan gaskets instead.

Not all that excited about this discovery, but I am glad I found it.

That process is pretty standard for vehicles that use RTV-type sealant for oil pans.

[ermax]

It's kind of a bummer they don't have pry points though. Being steel it's easy to deform the lip of the pan. I understand the use of FIPG on most of this engine but I just don't understand why they didn't use a normal gasket on the lower pan. Not only is it a pain to get off but a pain to clean up without scratching the paint off the pan and needing to respray it.

I like how they mixed it up and threw in a rubber gasket for the valve cover though. Hahaha.

[rice_classic]

Originally Posted by ermax

It's kind of a bummer they don't have pry points though. Being steel it's easy to deform the lip of the pan. I understand the use of FIPG on most of this engine but I just don't understand why they didn't use a normal gasket on the lower pan. Not only is it a pain to get off but a pain to clean up without scratching the paint off the pan and needing to respray it.

I like how they mixed it up and threw in a rubber gasket for the valve cover though. Hahaha.

Using FIPG/RTV instead of a gasket isn't what was surprising - it was the amount. I bet there was a bean counter involved here where the cost of using RTV was cheaper vs the manufacturing or sourcing cost of a gasket on a per unit basis considering the volume they were expected to produce - or just period.
But that's all behind me now.. gotta keep working! Onto the rear shocks!

[rice_classic]

The rear Sportline springs are the same resting length as the OEM which makes me wonder how they would lower the car 1.4" advertised - I assume that's a function of the progressive rate of the tighter coils that allows the spring to compress 1.4" more vs OEM when the car sits.

IMG_0478 by Rice Classic, on Flickr


I was planning on using the raceseng 2" rear extended top hat but I'm not sure that's going to work - but I'll get to that in a moment.

Let's start by removing the OEM perch - thankfully this one is pressed on so I only need to tap it off. However, I will have to grind quite a bit away to make it fit the 2" width I need for the Bilstein.

IMG_0473 by Rice Classic, on Flickr
IMG_0474 by Rice Classic, on Flickr


Not the final grind FYI - it got wider and much cleaner.

IMG_0475 by Rice Classic, on Flickr
IMG_0477 by Rice Classic, on Flickr


And now I have the "top-hat" conundrum. By using this 2" extending top hat I have to compress the spring (Preload) by about 2". The first 1.5" was by had and I had a 2nd person thread the top nut on and tightening the nut added about another .5". So that's ~2" of preload with everything set at the lowest height I can set it - meaning I would have great bump travel at the loss of droop. Secondly, if I find I need to raise the rear it will only increase preload and further reduce droop.



ISSO7503 by Rice Classic, on Flickr


I can use the OEM top-hat instead (not pictured) which only preloads the spring by 1" (or less) which will give up some bump travel but improve droop, preload and give me a bit of room for corner balancing; raising the rear if needed since everything is set at full-low...

Once I have the car on the ground I'll know for sure which top hat I will need to use. Ideally at rest the shock shaft will be at 50% of its stroke.

[Rampage]

How are things going? Are you making progress?

[rice_classic]

It's about time for an update.

Let's start where I left off - top hats and springs. I ended up going to back to the OEM top hat. It afforded me a lot less spring pre-load which is favorable and gave me some room for adjustment without significantly adding to that preload.

IMG_0483 by Rice Classic, on Flickr


And it all went in alright.

IMG_0490 by Rice Classic, on Flickr

With that out of the way - it was time install the SPC bits for some adjustability and the RacerX sway bar end links. Nothing fancy (nor expensive) and that's what I LOVE about the T4 rules!

IMG_0486 by Rice Classic, on Flickr


AQEH5303 by Rice Classic, on Flickr


So now that the rear suspension was in place it was time to do the rotating bits on the rear - hub/bearing/rotor/brakes.

IMG_0497 by Rice Classic, on Flickr


I took a wire wheel to everything and then coated in anti-seize so the next time I do this it's not all chemically fused together with rust!

IMG_0496 by Rice Classic, on Flickr
IMG_0498 by Rice Classic, on Flickr


I felt bad replacing these because they felt great! 84k miles and the bearings feel like they're new. But - it's a new race car build so I'm starting fresh.

IMG_0500 by Rice Classic, on Flickr

[rice_classic]

Going back to the front of the car..

The Hotchkis strut tower brace wasn't copacetic with my raceseng cascam mounts so I had to get creative in my bolt-bin. The bolt wasn't long enough to accommodate the cascam plate and the strut bar so needed something longer. Here how much pass-through existed without the strut bar in place.

IMG_0517 by Rice Classic, on Flickr

Here's the Cascam ones on the left (silver bits) and the alternates I had to choose from.

IMG_0516 by Rice Classic, on Flickr

First was the long black one in the raceseng washer...


IMG_0514 by Rice Classic, on Flickr


It protruded too far so I had to go for a shorter one with it's own washer. The reason for finding the right one was to A) make sure enough threads were engaged and B) so the upper spring perch wouldn't touch the bolt once I slide everything over for the camber adjustment.

It's less "pretty" but the problem was solved.

IMG_0529 by Rice Classic, on Flickr
That strut bar gave me something to tie my Innovate AFR sensor to as well, although I will probably relocate that attachment point.



But now I get to move onto one of my favorite bits... the Stereo Delete for the gauges and kill switch.

First and foremost I needed to figure out a way to kill the car and I was happy to find a very simply/safe solution. The 80amp fused wire off the positive terminal feeds a discrete block of fuses in the main block including fuel pump and ignition. Kill that - car dies. It works brilliantly. The rules don't require me to install this, but I won't only be racing with SCCA - I also race with ICSCC and they require these...

EZUO3583 by Rice Classic, on Flickr
Now for the gauges...
IMG_0507 by Rice Classic, on Flickr
IMG_0509 by Rice Classic, on Flickr
IMG_0534 by Rice Classic, on Flickr

[rice_classic]

I'm quite happy with out that gauge plate turned out. And speaking of being happy out things turned out... THE MANIFOLD! I also got a 1" bung welded in, just after the overpipe for the AFR sensor (not shown)

IMG_0494 by Rice Classic, on Flickr

I also got ready for the first starting of the car by having my trusty extinguisher in place with my fancy quick disconnect mount.
CPGY4753 by Rice Classic, on Flickr
IMG_0523 by Rice Classic, on Flickr

I will be installing a full fire suppression later this season but I needed the car at a minimum readiness for testing in April.

So now it was time to do alignment, scales etc...and in order to do that I need to move it to the other garage bay which means! Starting it!

I pulled the fuel pump plug so that I can dry crank it to fill up the oil cooler and lines and make some pressure before letting her rip.

IMG_0531 by Rice Classic, on Flickr
And then she fired right up!

But.. but... It wasn't all good.


IMG_0533 by Rice Classic, on Flickr

I got the TC/ABS light on and my scanner says steering position sensor fault. The Vehicle speed sensor code I had before was remedied by replacing the left rear speed sensor. For this fault, I'm 99.9% I broke my clock spring by not setting it center when I installed my NRG wheel adapter. Well, sure enough that I ordered another one today. Besides that - the car runs great with no other codes.

But now it's time to start the alignment and scaling...
Since the front wheel width and the rear are the same, I was able to string the car.

IMG_0543 by Rice Classic, on Flickr


I used Toe-Plates on the front but they were fine, no adjustment needed. However the rears were all over the place so I got Toe close, then did camber, then finished toe since on the rear, camber and toe impact each other.

IMG_0541 by Rice Classic, on Flickr
Unfortunately I won't be measuring my Caster today..
IMG_0519 by Rice Classic, on Flickr

I added a couple boxes of kitty litter to the passenger area for ballast and started working scales. Did pretty well even though I added too much (Min weight is 2925lbs with driver).

IMG_0566 by Rice Classic, on Flickr
IMG_0568 by Rice Classic, on Flickr


Link to the corner weight table I used:
http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets11.html

I had a friend help me mount these 245s onto the 7" wide wheels (because rules).

IMG_0537 by Rice Classic, on Flickr


Tire mounting = Free
Tire Balancing = free also..


IMG_0575 by Rice Classic, on Flickr
IMG_0577 by Rice Classic, on Flickr
uh oh.. gotta add some weight to this one!
IMG_0576 by Rice Classic, on Flickr


I put the OEM wheels back on and did a drive around the neighborhood and everything is working. There's a metal dragging noise which I'm pretty sure is rotor backing plate that got bent and touching the rotor so I'll address that soon. Time to schedule the DYNO!!!

[rice_classic]

1. Dyno tuning
2. Numbers/decals
3. Roll bar padding
4. Contingency Stickers (BFG, Toyota, Summit.. maybe others)
5. Install home-made cool shirt box and camera mounts.
6. Wash the car.
7. Final nut/bolt check
8. TEST DAY!

[Rampage]

Great update. It is fascinating to watch this come together.

[rice_classic]

After 2 laptops, 2 cables and 8 attempts... I finally figured out how to make techstream work. I would have figured it out with 1 laptop and 1 cable and probably 3 attempts if I realized that the first cable wasn't fully plugging into my OBD2 port when I thought it was.
Working now!
CGIF5141 by Rice Classic, on Flickr


Why Techstream? 1) seatbelt ding, 2)TPMS, which I never figured out and 3) steering calibration, because I had to buy a new one of these:


IMG_0630 by Rice Classic, on Flickr


Time for a Dyno appt. Happy result considering I'm sticking with 92 octane for now.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/156129...ream/lightbox/

Results are positive (but secret)

The cool shirt box was finished, the weight added (painted AND clear coated!) and rain tires purchased. I bought the RE71Rs because I was curious about their wet weather performance and I could get them in short notice. The reason for the wet weather curiosity... It's the PNW in April which means rain... always rain.

IMG_0653 by Rice Classic, on Flickr


PUZR1937 by Rice Classic, on Flickr

It's probably time to remove the license plate though..


IMG_0654 by Rice Classic, on Flickr

I was able to do several laps with everything from heavy rain with lots of puddles to a wet-to-drying track. They displace water well and hydroplaning was limited below a certain speed but I feel like they are far away from the wet performance of a Hoosier H2O. I would not show up to a competitive event in the rain with these. I expect I will be selling them soon.

[rice_classic]

Lessons learned from test day:

• Struggled with brake transfer layer and I suspect that's due to the weather and ducting. Considering the cold/wet I should have blocked off the brake ducts so rotor could heat up evenly for bedding. Need to do dry track testing on this. I will install new rotors and buy an alternate brake compound if this continues - but I don't expect it to.
• I can't heel-toe in race conditions with pedals in OEM positions. I can on the street but the needs from the pedals during threshold braking is different. I need to widen and raise the accelerator pedal.
• Simply turning off TC does indeed hinder trail braking. I will need to enable pedal dance during dry testing.
• The seat needs to be tilted back one notch and lumbar support added.
• I will revisit alignment (rear camber adj) and nut/bolt check before the next outing.
• I'm very pleased with power delivery and shifting - nothing to change there.

Time for decals/numbers which come from the decal shop in a few days and we're ready to party.

[Rampage]

When is your first event?