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Old 06-05-2019, 10:12 PM   #4971
Joesurf79
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Originally Posted by new2subaru View Post
You can reach your goal easily by striping weight, adding a header/tune or both.
Car is gutted as is - ace header tuned on e85 currently

Just need a few more hp up top to be competitive.
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Old 06-06-2019, 05:50 AM   #4972
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Car is gutted as is - ace header tuned on e85 currently

Just need a few more hp up top to be competitive.

"The car weighs for arguments sake 2700 lbs on the nose with me"


I missed this. Your weight to power goal is fully loaded. Carry on
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Old 06-06-2019, 08:49 AM   #4973
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"The car weighs for arguments sake 2700 lbs on the nose with me"


I missed this. Your weight to power goal is fully loaded. Carry on
Haha, yeah it was actually 2,712 when last weighed with me in it, geared up, 1/4 tank, and the coolshirt system filled. Take my 210 lbs out of the equation and you see my dilemma! And my goal is 190 by Christmas so if I can stick with the running it only helps me

How do these systems control the compressor flow output - is there a blow off valve that can be actuated in the tune to control max power output?

Last edited by Joesurf79; 06-06-2019 at 09:23 AM.
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Old 06-06-2019, 11:40 AM   #4974
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101C peak is totally fine, as long as it's not still rising.

Many modern cars are made to cruise at 105C for efficiency!

120C oil is on the higher side, but still acceptable.

Something like the Trackspec hood louvers, or a Varis (not Verus) hood would do wonders for your temps.
Mike, curious to hear why you don't recommend Verus vents? They seem to be at the perfect location (front) where the SC and front-mount turbos sit.

Trackspec vents would obviously be better due to their sheer size, but not practical for daily driving as they come with no optional rain gutters.

I know people say everything will be fine under the hood without rain gutters, but I don't know if that's a risk that should be taken in the Pacific NW region where the rainy season is INTENSE!
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Old 06-06-2019, 07:11 PM   #4975
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Mike, curious to hear why you don't recommend Verus vents? They seem to be at the perfect location (front) where the SC and front-mount turbos sit.

Trackspec vents would obviously be better due to their sheer size, but not practical for daily driving as they come with no optional rain gutters.

I know people say everything will be fine under the hood without rain gutters, but I don't know if that's a risk that should be taken in the Pacific NW region where the rainy season is INTENSE!
While heat rises, heat doesn't rise when there is significant air movement.

In the case of hood vents, (effective) surface area is king. Trackspec is far, far superior in this instance, and is proven to be more effective.

In fact, after all the talk by Verus about preserving the OEM hood ribbing, etc., they proceeded to copy TrackSpec style vents for every other platform they make vents for (ND Miata, Mustang, etc.,)


Rain gutters are 100% unnecessary. I've both tracked and parked my car in torrential rain, as well as snow, without issue, along with pretty much anyone who owns a Evo, Lotus, <any supercar>, Mustang, etc.
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Old 06-06-2019, 07:14 PM   #4976
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Originally Posted by Joesurf79 View Post
So I am starting to run in TT4 with NASA, and will need more power to get to my 12.0:1 pounds / HP ratio (per NASA's average calculator methodology). The car weighs for arguments sake 2700 lbs on the nose with me, coolshirt cooler, and a 1/4 tank of e85 as it sits now NA.


Questions :
What does the JRSC kit weigh roughly? <-- FOUND ANSWER, roughly 55 lbs?


For my target of 12:1 pound per HP, I need roughly 235 hp peak WHP. Should the C30 with the standard pulley get me there on e85?


Understanding that it's inherently risky boosting a motor with static 12.5:1 compression - with a good tune, are the FA20s surviving at the "lower" whp levels like I'm targeting? This one may be directed more @CSG_Mike, but any track beaten JRSC cars please chime in More referring to lifting rings / heat related issues, and not so much starving the bearings due to g-load on hoosiers :haha:
You'll be just fine. In fact, you'll actually need to detune to get to that number!

As long as you aren't having heat issues, and have a good tune, you will essentially have no change to reliability. @Jackson Racing won a national championship running more power than your setup will need, with zero failures.
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Old 06-07-2019, 08:02 AM   #4977
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Originally Posted by CSG Mike View Post
You'll be just fine. In fact, you'll actually need to detune to get to that number!

As long as you aren't having heat issues, and have a good tune, you will essentially have no change to reliability. @Jackson Racing won a national championship running more power than your setup will need, with zero failures.


Awesome to hear, thanks Mike. I've got a well sorted cooling program as is, so I'll make sure to have the car well tuned and cross the fingers.
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Old 06-08-2019, 01:40 PM   #4978
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Has anyone experienced occasional hiccups/hesitations under light throttle around 3k? The car sort of momentarily bucks and then carries on as expected.

I only have a base map from Delicious right now, but it's a little unsettling when it happens. Waiting to hear back from them with revisions, but was curious if any owners here have experienced the same thing.
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Old 06-08-2019, 01:45 PM   #4979
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Question: the tuner tells me the car is only pushing 9.6 PSI, no leaks have been found. I bought this kit used, first time running it. It drives fine, just not pulling the 12 PSI expected.

Nameless header back
C38 with HBP
DW300 pump
1200cc injectors

I saw some comments that depending on the exhaust it might not pull 12 PSI, not sure if that's really true. Could the bypass valve be the culprit? What else can we check?
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Old 06-09-2019, 04:30 AM   #4980
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Originally Posted by mistople View Post
Has anyone experienced occasional hiccups/hesitations under light throttle around 3k? The car sort of momentarily bucks and then carries on as expected.

I only have a base map from Delicious right now, but it's a little unsettling when it happens. Waiting to hear back from them with revisions, but was curious if any owners here have experienced the same thing.


I replaced my coil packs and spark plugs and it helped.


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Old 06-09-2019, 06:29 AM   #4981
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put a check valve in series with the pcv valve, just to be sure
or replace it with a wrx pcv valve you find the subaru code here in the forum

also depending on cam timing used, and overlap, maximum boost could change on a supercharger, also with warmer temperature it drops, but dont know
do you have logs on a 3rd gear pull with full gas logging vvt exhaust and intake?
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Old 06-09-2019, 09:42 AM   #4982
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put a check valve in series with the pcv valve, just to be sure
or replace it with a wrx pcv valve you find the subaru code here in the forum

also depending on cam timing used, and overlap, maximum boost could change on a supercharger, also with warmer temperature it drops, but dont know
do you have logs on a 3rd gear pull with full gas logging vvt exhaust and intake?
I'm in south FL, it's been in the mid 90s lately with 60% or more humidity. The tuner has the car, he has been working on the fluxfuel tune so I haven't driven it yet. He said he was going to adjust the exhaust valve timing to see if it helps.
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Old 06-13-2019, 09:20 AM   #4983
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Someone surely wants more boost on the cheap!

$90 Jackson Racing C30 High Boost Pulley
$30 Jackson Racing V2 hard pipe


Both parts are 100% brand new!
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Old 06-16-2019, 01:58 PM   #4984
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I'm coming up on the 2 year mark for changing the rotrex fluid on my JRSC. What's everyone's preferred method for changing the fluid in the system?
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