Jackson Racing Supercharger Owners Thread

[rns294]

Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17

From my understanding the C30 + HBP makes about the same as C38 with normal pulley but more efficiently.

No, they make the same with the same pulley. C38 just has a higher overhead and can run the RS pulley JR is selling.

Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17

I’m pretty sure the “pipe” in between the MAF and TB is plastic and just connected with rubber and clamps, if so you can tap it with a 1/8 npt.

The pipes are (quoting from JR site) Jackson Racing Mandrel Bent & Powder Coated Aluminum Piping with rubber connection elbows.

[peaches]

Bought a used C38 and installed it myself, currently waiting for it to be tuned. Don't have a power goal so we'll see what I end up with. Not sure if someone else has this combo:

Nameless header back (ceramic coated header, downpipe\overpipe combo w/HFC & Helmholtz, catback)
DW 300 pump
ID 1,200cc injectors
FlexFuel
C38 + HBP

The wait is killing me...

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by rns294

No, they make the same with the same pulley. C38 just has a higher overhead and can run the RS pulley JR is selling.

Yeah that's true, but generally recommended to be able to utilize the greater overhead of the C38 you need a built block, although the C30s max out on HBP at 7350rpm higher and you risk overspinning, the C38 can handle higher RPM. so one advantage if you wanted to keep same power but rev out a lot higher with the HBP.

Originally Posted by rns294

The pipes are (quoting from JR site) Jackson Racing Mandrel Bent & Powder Coated Aluminum Piping with rubber connection elbows.

Even better, aluminum pipe really easy to 1/8 npt tap for meth. Either way as long as its not entirely rubber like he originally thought he will be fine.

[HaXx]

Originally Posted by peaches

Bought a used C38 and installed it myself, currently waiting for it to be tuned. Don't have a power goal so we'll see what I end up with.

The wait is killing me...

Welcome to the boost gang. How did your install go?

[peaches]

Originally Posted by HaXx

Welcome to the boost gang. How did your install go?

Smooth, no issues aside from having to work in a storage unit with limited space. Used a funnel and a paper towel to create a seal on the oil reservoir and just blew on it to prime the line prior to startup, clearances are tight but nothing is rubbing. I did end up with the air filter touching the frame, so I had to trim the coupler a bit to gain clearance.

I also removed the Perrin oil cooler I had and replaced it with the JR radiator\cooler combo, things are very tight with the Nameless header but it works. Drove it to the tuner on the base tune, kept it under 3k RPMs under light load and it drove normally so I guess everything went ok.

Question: after I let it idle and checked for leaks, I noticed the SC get pretty hot, is that normal? I've had turbo cars before, this is my first SC.

[mistople]

Originally Posted by peaches

Smooth, no issues aside from having to work in a storage unit with limited space. Used a funnel and a paper towel to create a seal on the oil reservoir and just blew on it to prime the line prior to startup, clearances are tight but nothing is rubbing. I did end up with the air filter touching the frame, so I had to trim the coupler a bit to gain clearance.

I also removed the Perrin oil cooler I had and replaced it with the JR radiator\cooler combo, things are very tight with the Nameless header but it works. Drove it to the tuner on the base tune, kept it under 3k RPMs under light load and it drove normally so I guess everything went ok.

Question: after I let it idle and checked for leaks, I noticed the SC get pretty hot, is that normal? I've had turbo cars before, this is my first SC.

I just drove my C30 kit for the first time today. The SC was reasonably hot after a 20 min highway drive. Nothing crazy though.

[kowalski]

Originally Posted by peaches

Smooth, no issues aside from having to work in a storage unit with limited space. Used a funnel and a paper towel to create a seal on the oil reservoir and just blew on it to prime the line prior to startup, clearances are tight but nothing is rubbing. I did end up with the air filter touching the frame, so I had to trim the coupler a bit to gain clearance.

I also removed the Perrin oil cooler I had and replaced it with the JR radiator\cooler combo, things are very tight with the Nameless header but it works. Drove it to the tuner on the base tune, kept it under 3k RPMs under light load and it drove normally so I guess everything went ok.

Question: after I let it idle and checked for leaks, I noticed the SC get pretty hot, is that normal? I've had turbo cars before, this is my first SC.

Mine is quite hot since the very first day. All engine bay gets hotter. For me ceramic coating the headers made a great difference in lowering engine bay temps. Althugh it is still quite hot. I do not have the jrsc dual cooler. Though. I was planning on installing it some day. On that note, I am curious. What are your coolant temps in stop and go traffic with the dual cooler? compared to stock in same conditions? Do you have any info on this? I would be much interested in thx and enjoy your sc.

Enviado desde mi SM-A730F mediante Tapatalk

[peaches]

Originally Posted by kowalski

Mine is quite hot since the very first day. All engine bay gets hotter. For me ceramic coating the headers made a great difference in lowering engine bay temps. Althugh it is still quite hot. I do not have the jrsc dual cooler. Though. I was planning on installing it some day. On that note, I am curious. What are your coolant temps in stop and go traffic with the dual cooler? compared to stock in same conditions? Do you have any info on this? I would be much interested in thx and enjoy your sc.

Enviado desde mi SM-A730F mediante Tapatalk

I don't have any data form stock, but I'm sure there's some out there. I can take some logs after I get the car back. The size difference is significant though

[CSG Mike]

@kowalski the swings will be slower, but because you're still thermostat and fan regulated, in stop and go traffic, you will see the same *range* of temperatures.

[kowalski]

thx! I actually have no problem with stock radiator when driving hard, except when really pushing uphill in curvy roads at high rpms (where all the fun is) for say an extended amount of time. Then the oil heats above 120 celsius and I have to let it cool a little. Coolant though stays in the 90 - 94 celsius while moving. However, in stop and go traffic, or even at 60km/h coolant temps reach 101 celsius quite quickly. Fans kick in, but as soon as they vanish, it gets there again. I guess with the dual radiator you can benefit for more abuse on the higher rpms. But I am not so sure if after pushing hard the coolant will be highly affected by having the oil temps next to it in the radiator. This is one of my concerns as, although it is not my daily, more often than not I am stuck in traffic.

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

@kowalski the swings will be slower, but because you're still thermostat and fan regulated, in stop and go traffic, you will see the same *range* of temperatures.

Enviado desde mi SM-A730F mediante Tapatalk

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by kowalski

thx! I actually have no problem with stock radiator when driving hard, except when really pushing uphill in curvy roads at high rpms (where all the fun is) for say an extended amount of time. Then the oil heats above 120 celsius and I have to let it cool a little. Coolant though stays in the 90 - 94 celsius while moving. However, in stop and go traffic, or even at 60km/h coolant temps reach 101 celsius quite quickly. Fans kick in, but as soon as they vanish, it gets there again. I guess with the dual radiator you can benefit for more abuse on the higher rpms. But I am not so sure if after pushing hard the coolant will be highly affected by having the oil temps next to it in the radiator. This is one of my concerns as, although it is not my daily, more often than not I am stuck in traffic.

Enviado desde mi SM-A730F mediante Tapatalk

101C peak is totally fine, as long as it's not still rising.

Many modern cars are made to cruise at 105C for efficiency!

120C oil is on the higher side, but still acceptable.

Something like the Trackspec hood louvers, or a Varis (not Verus) hood would do wonders for your temps.

[Joesurf79]

So I am starting to run in TT4 with NASA, and will need more power to get to my 12.0:1 pounds / HP ratio (per NASA's average calculator methodology). The car weighs for arguments sake 2700 lbs on the nose with me, coolshirt cooler, and a 1/4 tank of e85 as it sits now NA.


Questions :
What does the JRSC kit weigh roughly? <-- FOUND ANSWER, roughly 55 lbs?


For my target of 12:1 pound per HP, I need roughly 235 hp peak WHP. Should the C30 with the standard pulley get me there on e85?


Understanding that it's inherently risky boosting a motor with static 12.5:1 compression - with a good tune, are the FA20s surviving at the "lower" whp levels like I'm targeting? This one may be directed more @CSG_Mike, but any track beaten JRSC cars please chime in More referring to lifting rings / heat related issues, and not so much starving the bearings due to g-load on hoosiers :haha:

[mistople]

Originally Posted by Joesurf79

So I am starting to run in TT4 with NASA, and will need more power to get to my 12.0:1 pounds / HP ratio (per NASA's average calculator methodology). The car weighs for arguments sake 2700 lbs on the nose with me, coolshirt cooler, and a 1/4 tank of e85 as it sits now NA.


Questions :
What does the JRSC kit weigh roughly? <-- FOUND ANSWER, roughly 55 lbs?


For my target of 12:1 pound per HP, I need roughly 235 hp peak WHP. Should the C30 with the standard pulley get me there on e85?


Understanding that it's inherently risky boosting a motor with static 12.5:1 compression - with a good tune, are the FA20s surviving at the "lower" whp levels like I'm targeting? This one may be directed more @CSG_Mike, but any track beaten JRSC cars please chime in More referring to lifting rings / heat related issues, and not so much starving the bearings due to g-load on hoosiers :haha:

Is it really 55 lbs? I can't imagine it weighs that much after just installing it.

You would be well over 235whp with E85. Depending on the car and dyno, probably more in the low to mid 300s. C30s on 92 show a 280whp dynojet reading here at Drift Office.

[new2subaru]

Originally Posted by Joesurf79

So I am starting to run in TT4 with NASA, and will need more power to get to my 12.0:1 pounds / HP ratio (per NASA's average calculator methodology). The car weighs for arguments sake 2700 lbs on the nose with me, coolshirt cooler, and a 1/4 tank of e85 as it sits now NA.


Questions :
What does the JRSC kit weigh roughly? <-- FOUND ANSWER, roughly 55 lbs?


For my target of 12:1 pound per HP, I need roughly 235 hp peak WHP. Should the C30 with the standard pulley get me there on e85?


Understanding that it's inherently risky boosting a motor with static 12.5:1 compression - with a good tune, are the FA20s surviving at the "lower" whp levels like I'm targeting? This one may be directed more @CSG_Mike, but any track beaten JRSC cars please chime in More referring to lifting rings / heat related issues, and not so much starving the bearings due to g-load on hoosiers :haha:

You can reach your goal easily by striping weight, adding a header/tune or both.