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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for!


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Old 08-08-2015, 05:03 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PST View Post
Practically zero. If anything, there's a little bit of lift at higher speeds. Here's a plot showing ride height vs. speed at three separate track days.

Green- Stock Suspension, RE71Rs
Orange- Tarmac 2s, lowered 1" with 3/8" of rake
Blue- Same as orange, but with swaybars. Included for reference.

As you can see, there's definitely a tendency for ride height to increase at higher speeds on the stock suspension. By lowering the car and adding a little bit of rake, that tendency has been reduced.

We will be testing the Velox splitter and diffuser in a few weeks to see how much of a different it makes.
Definitely interested in this.
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Old 08-08-2015, 10:06 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PST View Post
I couldn't resist, I had to calculate that off our data. I took a data dump from a session we ran on stock suspension, and used the spring rates and motion ratios published here:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26661

Looks like we saw 34 lbs of lift at 70 mph, averaged across the car.



I'm nerding out so hard right now.

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lol you should`ve seen my gf`s face when she found me looking at a graph..
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Old 08-08-2015, 10:47 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PST View Post
I couldn't resist, I had to calculate that off our data. I took a data dump from a session we ran on stock suspension, and used the spring rates and motion ratios published here:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26661

Looks like we saw 34 lbs of lift at 70 mph, averaged across the car.



I'm nerding out so hard right now.

Jake
Mmmm~ moar sexy graphs, please.
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Old 08-09-2015, 04:44 PM   #60
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Have you seen our build thread? It's full of graphs!

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90384
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Old 08-09-2015, 05:33 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OkieSnuffBox View Post
To be fair, including downforce into that number means the weight distribution changes with speed. So that gets a bit cumbersome to calculate.

Do you have a rolling road wind tunnel with which to test?
Others have covered it, but the main point is to move away from weight distribution if starting to talk about initial car setup.

For 99% of car owners, alignment is key. My point is about the weight distribution part and how it should be properly considered in the context of aero mods IF one is serious about adjusting weight distribution to maximize performance.

-alex
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Old 08-09-2015, 06:04 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PST View Post
Have you seen our build thread? It's full of graphs!

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90384
And 100% relevant. Thank you very much for sharing.
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Old 08-10-2015, 01:34 PM   #63
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I haven't read this thread, so I don't know if it was mentioned, but I think there are a few options for brake booster delete kits now. I don't have one, but apparently they shed ~20 pounds off the front. So an AC delete, lithium battery, and that are probably going to be your three most effective things for the front. A flywheel might be next after that.
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Old 08-06-2018, 11:06 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mokinbird87 View Post
To be honest it`s not really hindering me (it`s probably my driving skills hindering the car really), but it`s just a vision. I think I`m running out of options for losing weight in the front end so I just wanted to know if others have done something clever. As others mentioned there are easy ways to fix my "problem" but wanted to tackle the weight distribution first and then do other things. I just have a certain concept of how I want the car to feel. If anything, I`ve heard that the 350Z platform is intentionally built with a bit more front bias for that initial front bite (if my geeky memory serves me correct from Best Motoring DVD lol).


Did you ever come up with anymore ideas. I hear everyone say just adjust your corner weights and alignment. But I would rather do that AFTER I have removed as much weight as possible off the front.


Here are what I have done so far:
Remove Front Bumper Beam
AC Delete
Lightweight Pulleys
DI mounts delete
Empty Windshield Bottle
ACE headers
Removed useless shield thing driver side firewall
Coilovers
Lighter wheels/Tires
Lightweight WRX Wilwood brakes


Considerations


-Mishimoto slim Fan kit. Waiting on actual weight numbers of stock setup to see if worth it. May only run with passenger fan as Driver Fan is extra for AC.
-Was looking for aluminum radiator. All of them are larger capacity any weight savings would be added back in with fluid.
- There is Aluminum Oil pan- Again adds in more fluid capacity
- Cusco makes a sway bar 2mm smaller than stock, but its still solid not hollow like the rear.
-Dry carbon hood - but want in stock design and would paint it stock


Not going to do:
Flywheel - Already have driveshaft, pulleys. Heard its not good for all 3, plus don't want drivability issues.
Chase bays brake boost eliminator- Not ready to tear up braking system on street car.
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Old 08-06-2018, 03:48 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperTom View Post
Did you ever come up with anymore ideas. I hear everyone say just adjust your corner weights and alignment. But I would rather do that AFTER I have removed as much weight as possible off the front.


Here are what I have done so far:
Remove Front Bumper Beam
AC Delete
Lightweight Pulleys
DI mounts delete
Empty Windshield Bottle
ACE headers
Removed useless shield thing driver side firewall
Coilovers
Lighter wheels/Tires
Lightweight WRX Wilwood brakes


Considerations


-Mishimoto slim Fan kit. Waiting on actual weight numbers of stock setup to see if worth it. May only run with passenger fan as Driver Fan is extra for AC.
-Was looking for aluminum radiator. All of them are larger capacity any weight savings would be added back in with fluid.
- There is Aluminum Oil pan- Again adds in more fluid capacity
- Cusco makes a sway bar 2mm smaller than stock, but its still solid not hollow like the rear.
-Dry carbon hood - but want in stock design and would paint it stock


Not going to do:
Flywheel - Already have driveshaft, pulleys. Heard its not good for all 3, plus don't want drivability issues.
Chase bays brake boost eliminator- Not ready to tear up braking system on street car.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Penske/Donahue

Dip the body in acid.
Otherwise, do you still have a stereo in the car?

You don't really *need* fender liners, right?

Take off some of the underbody plastic bit clips. You don't need all of them.

Do the headlights need to have bulbs? Do they even need to be there?

Seats? Airbags? Does water + water wetter weigh less than coolant in equivalent volumes? Ooh! Run less oil.

Cut 1/4" off the hood. All the way around.

Know what weights less than a lightweight sway bar? No sway bar at all. Take the mounts out while you're there.

What about your diet? Beer guts are forward-bi-assed.

Yanking out the rear seats will still pull some weight off the nose. Anything between the wheels will have a measurable weight on the front wheels.

Then strip the wiring harnesses/looms of any items that are simply no longer in the car.

Just start taking off parts one at a time until it either won't start, or develops some really bad handling traits. When it does, put that last thing you removed back on, but only use half the screws.

Not all of the above is serious. But, it could be.
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Old 08-06-2018, 04:21 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrqlessWonder View Post
Otherwise, do you still have a stereo in the car?

You don't really *need* fender liners, right?

Take off some of the underbody plastic bit clips. You don't need all of them.

Do the headlights need to have bulbs? Do they even need to be there?

Seats? Airbags? Does water + water wetter weigh less than coolant in equivalent volumes? Ooh! Run less oil.

Cut 1/4" off the hood. All the way around.

Know what weights less than a lightweight sway bar? No sway bar at all. Take the mounts out while you're there.

What about your diet? Beer guts are forward-bi-assed.

Yanking out the rear seats will still pull some weight off the nose. Anything between the wheels will have a measurable weight on the front wheels.

Then strip the wiring harnesses/looms of any items that are simply no longer in the car.

Just start taking off parts one at a time until it either won't start, or develops some really bad handling traits. When it does, put that last thing you removed back on, but only use half the screws.

Not all of the above is serious. But, it could be.


Haha good stuff not looking to strip the car like Anthony but I like your outside the box creativeness. Just looking for replacement parts that are lighter than stock. Car will be stockish to the naked eye.


Carbon Fiber seats are coming in this week, Removed door speakers but kept small dash ones and rear ones. Already did a rear seat delete. Ive done all the common weight loss mods. Really its phase II things that may be lighter but overlooked parts like Front LCA's


Considering if I go with a aftermarket steering wheel removing the rest of the airbags. Ive been 10+ years in my C5 with no airbags, all my cars have had aftermarket steering wheels.


I Did consider Headunit is 4 lbs if there was a way to run an aux wire directly to the stock 2lb amp off my phone. Since I just use apps like Pandora and radio.com 99% of the time anyway.


There is a post about people not having the front sway bar. Some debate if its dangerous or not. I do have coilovers which maybe enough to compensate for stiffness especially on a car that is almost 400lbs lighter. Will pass on that and just go a lighter since I will be doing HPDE in this
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Old 08-06-2018, 09:32 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperTom View Post
Did you ever come up with anymore ideas. I hear everyone say just adjust your corner weights and alignment. But I would rather do that AFTER I have removed as much weight as possible off the front.


Here are what I have done so far:
Remove Front Bumper Beam
AC Delete
Lightweight Pulleys
DI mounts delete
Empty Windshield Bottle
ACE headers
Removed useless shield thing driver side firewall
Coilovers
Lighter wheels/Tires
Lightweight WRX Wilwood brakes


Considerations


-Mishimoto slim Fan kit. Waiting on actual weight numbers of stock setup to see if worth it. May only run with passenger fan as Driver Fan is extra for AC.
-Was looking for aluminum radiator. All of them are larger capacity any weight savings would be added back in with fluid.
- There is Aluminum Oil pan- Again adds in more fluid capacity
- Cusco makes a sway bar 2mm smaller than stock, but its still solid not hollow like the rear.
-Dry carbon hood - but want in stock design and would paint it stock


Not going to do:
Flywheel - Already have driveshaft, pulleys. Heard its not good for all 3, plus don't want drivability issues.
Chase bays brake boost eliminator- Not ready to tear up braking system on street car.
If you are going to not do pulleys or flywheel, keep the stock pulleys. The flywheel has a bigger impact by far. Also the people that say it is not good always come up with WRX and forced induction data, they can't find any n/a data because it doesn't exist.

When it comes to the brakes, what size wheels can fit over them?I'd love to get lighter brakes but being forced to buy heavier wheels and tires will just offset any actual weight loss.
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Old 08-06-2018, 10:06 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by why? View Post
If you are going to not do pulleys or flywheel, keep the stock pulleys. The flywheel has a bigger impact by far. Also the people that say it is not good always come up with WRX and forced induction data, they can't find any n/a data because it doesn't exist.

When it comes to the brakes, what size wheels can fit over them?I'd love to get lighter brakes but being forced to buy heavier wheels and tires will just offset any actual weight loss.
You missed my top post maybe. I already have pulleys and CF driveshaft. Much easier than replacing a flywheel. I would consider when I have to replace clutch which could be a long time.

I already have the light Wilwood WRX brakes that shaved 30lbs off the front using my scales. I have 17x8 konig hypergrams at 16.5lbs and stock size Hankooks evo 12's at 19lbs for about 5.5lbs total savings per corner. The wilwoods can fit inside 16's but I'm happy with my setup.

Ive done a lot already I'm just looking for whats next, especially off the front. A lot of the originators of the forum did things in the beginning but it looks like many are banned. They hold the secret key to unlocking more weight reduction knowledge. The reason why I'm bumping older posts to see if anyone is still active.
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Old 08-06-2018, 10:34 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperTom View Post
You missed my top post maybe. I already have pulleys and CF driveshaft. Much easier than replacing a flywheel. I would consider when I have to replace clutch which could be a long time.

I already have the light Wilwood WRX brakes that shaved 30lbs off the front using my scales. I have 17x8 konig hypergrams at 16.5lbs and stock size Hankooks evo 12's at 19lbs for about 5.5lbs total savings per corner. The wilwoods can fit inside 16's but I'm happy with my setup.

Ive done a lot already I'm just looking for whats next, especially off the front. A lot of the originators of the forum did things in the beginning but it looks like many are banned. They hold the secret key to unlocking more weight reduction knowledge. The reason why I'm bumping older posts to see if anyone is still active.

Tom, after reading your posts I think you've done just about everything. If you want to go any further you're going to have to get hard core





Don't know if you've sen this build but good and there are many others mentioned in the first post.



http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71806



Did you get the firewall insulation? It's worth about 6lbs and free. It adds a bit of engine noise but nothing extreme.

Last edited by new2subaru; 08-06-2018 at 10:53 PM.
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Old 08-07-2018, 05:14 AM   #70
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No airbags and no crash beam... on a road car.

Good luck and make sure you increase the limits on your life insurance.
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