New Owner... Overall run down?

[HatchirokuV2.0]

Hey!

On Saturday, August 22nd, I finally got to purchase a 2013 Scion FR-S. It has everything except the 10-Series logos, special ignition silver, and dual climate control. I've been enjoying it so far, but I'd like to start out first by figuring a few things out.

On average, what are recommended fluid change intervals? Any recommended fluids for certain things? Certain kinks that I should be looking for to iron out? Anything else?

Sorry, but I remember when I first became a Miata owner I had to show my rear end to get some answers...I've had three of them now. And I'm now back at the same issue, except with a FR-S!

[Reaper]

the manual transmission is made of glass. E85 and aflex fuel kit is the most power per dollar. Up to 30whp increase. The front pipe is the most restrictive part of the exhaust. Stock brakes do great with good pads and fluid. Stock engine can hold over 400whp. If you track it get an oil cooler. Stock suspension cant be adjusted other than toe unless you buy some parts. The front bumper will eventually sag. Acorns will dent your roof/trunk/hood so dont park under a tree. Deleting the rear seat doesnt save much weight. The OEM battery is heavy. If you lower it on stock wheels 15mm spacers make a big visual differance.

[Ultramaroon]

I read that all without taking a breath.

[aegisdrgn]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

I read that all without taking a breath.

To encourage such a feat, I believe all the punctuation marks should be removed.

[HatchirokuV2.0]

All good.. Now what about fluid intervals? Is it the standard 3mo/5,000 miles and on the trans/diff 30 K/ 1yr? And everything else either once a year or every 6 mo?

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by HatchirokuV2.0

Hey!

On Saturday, August 22nd, I finally got to purchase a 2013 Scion FR-S. ..........
On average, what are recommended fluid change intervals? Any recommended fluids for certain things? ......... Anything else?

Sorry, but I remember when I first became a Miata owner I had to show my rear end to get some answers...I've had three of them now. And I'm now back at the same issue, except with a FR-S!

Congratulations, HatchiokuV2.0 and ..... WELCOME to .... The Forum .....

I too came out of a miata (NC). By now you have found out it drives much like a miata .....

For average driving, I'd suggest you just follow the recommendations in the drivers manual for fluid changes.

I will suggest you read the manual ....... and then in a week or so, read it again ...... ALL of it this time ......

OEM added splash guards (mud guards) will help protect the sides of the car and keep it cleaner.

STOP about 2 feet short of where you think you should stop, when pulling into a parking place with concrete stops.

Always use the highest test gas at the pumps.

IMHO, the FR-S doesn't NEED any mods ...... it does just fine, right out of the box, for average driving.

If you hear "the crickets" (chirping from the high pressure fuel pump), just get used to them.

If you find the shift somewhat notchy from 1st to 2nd, especially when it is cold, just pull the shifter slowly and firmly back ..... it will go away when the transmission warms up.

Enjoy your new machine ......


humfrz

[Ultramaroon]

Oh, ok. Just do what humfrz said. It's a fine machine out of the box. The tranny technically is the weak link but it's just fine. Reaper's running insane boost.

I run stone stock and love it.

[aegisdrgn]

Let me try!

Read your maintenance manual for fluid change intervals but change out your trans and diff fluid for motul 300 75w90 sooner rather than later if the notchy shifting bothers you but in case you think it's just a shitty transmission look around the forum for a thread by Moto Miwa explaining why it's so notchy now go take the plastic cigarette lighter plug from inside your glove compartment and cover the sound tube hole in the passenger footwell you'll thank me later don't worry about the chirping noise that's your high pressure fuel pumping working some say gas with low ethanol content helps reduce the sound if you hear popping from the rear deck check the forums there is a thread showing you how to eliminate it and watch out for condensation in your taillights after a long car wash or rain that means the rubber gasket has failed but it is an easy fix just search for gasket ninja on these forums but if you want to go ghetto some people use gorilla tape over the top of the taillight housing to prevent water from running down that hole as far as fluids go you should check out the UOA Blackstone oil analysis thread to see actual lab tests on various engine oils we use and for how long you can use that oil and there are many cheap and easy bolt-on mods you can do that will increase driving pleasure the most common are master cylinder brace front strut tower brace drop-in engine air filters transmission and differential fluid change heavy weight shift knob short shifter kit rear shifter bushing replacement transmission mount insert and now back to issues you might encounter one of which is warm air coming out of the vents even when your hvac is off don't worry that's normal another thing which should already be applied to your car is the infamous idle dip that only affected the early run of cars if you are curious search for it in this forum and if you've gone ahead and downloaded the full service manual stickied at the top of this forum you'll be set as far as knowing what needs to be done how don't worry about the part saying you need to raise the engine when changing out spark plugs many members have been able to change spark plugs with just small hands or long extensions with universal joints and that reminds me if you are getting knocking under hard acceleration when it's really hot out you might want to replace your direct injector seals while you can do it yourself and there is an abbreviated DIY video by @savagegeese somewhere here and on youtube it's going to be long and hard and that brings me to the last thing I wanted to mention which was disappearing coolant you might want to do search for that as well since the coolant reservoir is right over the header it can get warm enough to evaporate the coolant out of the bottle some members got ingenious and devised breathable plugs to slow down the rate of evaporation I know my 2013 had a month where the coolant somehow dropped from full to below the low mark and the only change was going canyon driving consecutive weekends and starting work across town but after I refilled the bottle the coolant hasn't dropped since.

Breathe in.

*I'm slow* Looks like @humfrz got to some of the things I mentioned before I finished typing.

[Packofcrows]

Originally Posted by aegisdrgn

Let me try!

Read your maintenance manual for fluid change intervals but change out your trans and diff fluid for motul 300 75w90 sooner rather than later if the notchy shifting bothers you but in case you think it's just a shitty transmission look around the forum for a thread by Moto Miwa explaining why it's so notchy now go take the plastic cigarette lighter plug from inside your glove compartment and cover the sound tube hole in the passenger footwell you'll thank me later don't worry about the chirping noise that's your high pressure fuel pumping working some say gas with low ethanol content helps reduce the sound if you hear popping from the rear deck check the forums there is a thread showing you how to eliminate it and watch out for condensation in your taillights after a long car wash or rain that means the rubber gasket has failed but it is an easy fix just search for gasket ninja on these forums but if you want to go ghetto some people use gorilla tape over the top of the taillight housing to prevent water from running down that hole as far as fluids go you should check out the UOA Blackstone oil analysis thread to see actual lab tests on various engine oils we use and for how long you can use that oil and there are many cheap and easy bolt-on mods you can do that will increase driving pleasure the most common are master cylinder brace front strut tower brace drop-in engine air filters transmission and differential fluid change heavy weight shift knob short shifter kit rear shifter bushing replacement transmission mount insert and now back to issues you might encounter one of which is warm air coming out of the vents even when your hvac is off don't worry that's normal another thing which should already be applied to your car is the infamous idle dip that only affected the early run of cars if you are curious search for it in this forum and if you've gone ahead and downloaded the full service manual stickied at the top of this forum you'll be set as far as knowing what needs to be done how don't worry about the part saying you need to raise the engine when changing out spark plugs many members have been able to change spark plugs with just small hands or long extensions with universal joints and that reminds me if you are getting knocking under hard acceleration when it's really hot out you might want to replace your direct injector seals while you can do it yourself and there is an abbreviated DIY video by @savagegeese somewhere here and on youtube it's going to be long and hard and that brings me to the last thing I wanted to mention which was disappearing coolant you might want to do search for that as well since the coolant reservoir is right over the header it can get warm enough to evaporate the coolant out of the bottle some members got ingenious and devised breathable plugs to slow down the rate of evaporation I know my 2013 had a month where the coolant somehow dropped from full to below the low mark and the only change was going canyon driving consecutive weekends and starting work across town but after I refilled the bottle the coolant hasn't dropped since.

Breathe in.

*I'm slow* Looks like @humfrz got to some of the things I mentioned before I finished typing.

Tried reading this stoned. Man I ended up quoting, "Up in Smoke," and Mark Twain

LSS for this thread: FIRST, RTFM.



Second, remember the manufacturer recommended intervals are only a suggestion. If it says do X thing every 5k, I might do it at 3.5k or 4k. Perhaps 6k! Depends on how I drive, how the oil looks and what it feels like. Also, depends on quality of lubricants or parts. If you add the cheapest oil there is that probably has live crickets and sand, then expect your oil to need to be changed every two blocks. If you use high end and can afford some crazy stuff, then it might need to be changed every 7k!

On average, what are recommended fluid change intervals? Any recommended fluids for certain things? Certain kinks that I should be looking for to iron out? Anything else?

My fluid intervals avg around 4-5k for past two changes.
Fluid recommendations like brands? Toyota brand or Royal Purple. It is a waste for RP, but I like it!

Kinks... well mine had clutch squeaks/engagement issues, ECU not working right, car revving by itself and with two or three visits to a dealer, they were cured.

Things I look for now are cosmetic. For example, I clean paint asap after poop or other stuff gets on it. I park it miles away so random strangers dont place grocery bags on it or lean against water based pos paint.

Uhm...I vacuum it twice a week because interior gets a bit dusty quick..... Nothing else I can think besides change transmission oil asap and engine. Hit like 1.5k miles and do it after buying. Runs smoother on shifts.

[Ultramaroon]

Haha.... I couldn't get through it without breathing. Almost passed out. Good info, though.

10/10 would try reading again.

[Aztec]

Originally Posted by Reaper

the manual transmission is made of glass. E85 and aflex fuel kit is the most power per dollar. Up to 30whp increase. The front pipe is the most restrictive part of the exhaust. Stock brakes do great with good pads and fluid. Stock engine can hold over 400whp. If you track it get an oil cooler. Stock suspension cant be adjusted other than toe unless you buy some parts. The front bumper will eventually sag. Acorns will dent your roof/trunk/hood so dont park under a tree. Deleting the rear seat doesnt save much weight. The OEM battery is heavy. If you lower it on stock wheels 15mm spacers make a big visual differance.

Can we literally make a thread with information like this LOL. Just braindump everything we can think of and someone will learn something

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Aztec

Can we literally make a thread with information like this LOL. Just braindump everything we can think of and someone will learn something

It has been tried. Degenerated into a massive shit show and was eventually just closed (may even have been deleted). As soon as one person made a point 5 others said it was wrong which resulted in 10 saying it was right. So, we just get to do it all over again with every new guy.

[aegisdrgn]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

It has been tried. Degenerated into a massive shit show and was eventually just closed (may even have been deleted). As soon as one person made a point 5 others said it was wrong which resulted in 10 saying it was right. So, we just get to do it all over again with every new guy.

The Internet will Internet.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by aegisdrgn

The Internet will Internet.

Yep! We prove that here every single day.