Changing spark plugs

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by AD55

I've been trying to figure this one out. The plug replace interval is listed as 5 years or 60K miles, whichever comes first.

Yep, that's what the manual says.

My 2013 FR-S has about 25,000 miles on it, and it's over 5 years old.

I'm not about to have the plugs changed before 60,000 miles, unless I get a misfire code.

Yes, I'm just an old man that drives my car up to the doctor's office and then on to the pharmacy/grocery store -


humfrz

[Impureclient]

I'm in the "proverbial little old lady" camp myself. I've put about 3500 miles each year so going by miles I'd be changing them in around 2032.
Even with 90% city miles, changing them at about 25k miles seems a bit premature. I'm thinking it'll be somewhere in between like 40k.

[AD55]

That's exactly why I brought this up, as I too identify with that little old lady.

The car sits in the garage most of the winter months either due to ice and snow on the roads or because there's salt all over the roads to get rid of the ice and snow.

I do sometimes start and run it up to operating temperature or maybe just sit in it, run it through the gears, and imitate the sound of a boxer engine.

No doubt about it, I've got to move south before I lose what's left of my mind or are just too old to climb in and out of the BRZ.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by AD55

That's exactly why I brought this up, as I too identify with that little old lady.

No doubt about it, I've got to move south before I lose what's left of my mind or are just too old to climb in and out of the BRZ.

Now is the time to practice the old "exit roll". Getting in isn't too bad, "flopping" out can be embarrassing -


humfrz

[rice_classic]

Originally Posted by humfrz

I'm not about to have the plugs changed before 60,000 miles, unless I get a misfire code.

I chuckled at this. Because if the plugs degraded over 5 years without usage then we could probably expect the rest of the car is simply dissolving in our garages as we speak!

[LerpK]

I am about to tackle this job here in the next couple weeks. I see some people saying that jacking the engine up helps create more room, and others saying it didn't help. Does it help that much or doesn't it? Also, do the engine mounts need to be removed or loosened to jack the engine up, or just the few things already mentioned previously, like intake, alternator hard line, etc.?

[Mr.ac]

Originally Posted by LerpK

I am about to tackle this job here in the next couple weeks. I see some people saying that jacking the engine up helps create more room, and others saying it didn't help. Does it help that much or doesn't it? Also, do the engine mounts need to be removed or loosened to jack the engine up, or just the few things already mentioned previously, like intake, alternator hard line, etc.?

I did the same thing this dude did. Takes time, just be patient. Even with my fat gorilla hands I did it.

[theadmiral976]

Originally Posted by LerpK

I am about to tackle this job here in the next couple weeks. I see some people saying that jacking the engine up helps create more room, and others saying it didn't help. Does it help that much or doesn't it? Also, do the engine mounts need to be removed or loosened to jack the engine up, or just the few things already mentioned previously, like intake, alternator hard line, etc.?

If you choose to raise the engine any appreciable amount, you will have to undo the single bolt from the mount to the frame on each side of the motor.

In my opinion, it is definitely not worth it to lift the engine for a simple plug change. I just did it for the second time and, if I can recall, these are the tools I used: short sockets (10, 12 mm), deep socket (14 mm), very short extension (~1 inch), short extension (2 inches), long-handled fine toothed ratchet (head as narrow as you can find - I like the narrow Craftsman ratchets), magnet on bendable/extendable stick (I use a Husky "penlight/magnet" combo tool I found at Home Depot), and a small mirror of some variety.

You will have the most trouble pulling the #4 plug (driver's rear) as the frame is very tight and you have to disassemble your tools to get the deepwell 14 mm socket out. Strong fingers will help you. Or you can use a set of long-handled pliers to grip the extension while blocking the socket from leaving the plug hole.

You will be in great pain while removing the #2 plug (driver's front) as the HPFP assembly above it is sharp and hate-filled. It will cut you. You will bleed all over your fuel lines. You will contemplate selling your car.

In terms of access, you will need to remove two things, the injector ECU on the passenger side and the HPFP heat shield on the driver's side. For the ECU, don't unplug it, you'll regret it. Just twist the ECU towards the floor and stuff it next to the battery. This will limit the amount of tension you put on the harness. For the heat shield, it's two 12 mm bolts - use a magnet to control the rear bolt as it is way down on the block and easy to drop. It is very heavy and very sharp and will damage harnesses and paint. Carefully maneuver it back towards the firewall under the left chassis brace and then pull it up on the front side to clear the fuel lines. Then carefully extract it towards the front at a 45 degree angle.

Good luck and God speed. If only Subaru had cut a couple access holes in the frame to allow direct access via the wheel wells....

[evan_calgary]

Just finished this today. Thanks for the write up.

Based on what Toyota charges to get it done I thought it was not a hard nor long job. 3 hours including a trip to get tools and some messing around.

I wouldn't both jacking up the engine.

Definitely remove the torsion bar, the plastic clamp for the hoses and the whatever than heavy black metal cover is on the driver's side.

If there is anything I can recommend, don't click in your ratchets. The few times I did I wasted more time getting them off than anything else.

It is tight in there but the people that built this car made it just work.

[LerpK]

I completed this with a buddy and it honestly wasn't as bad as I was expecting. It's a pretty easy, straight forward job. It is just time consuming with the limited amount of space to work in.

I didn't need any special tools either, just used a 3/8ths ratchet, a 6'' extension with the shorter "spark plug" extension attached to that, deepwell socket, small flathead screwdriver to help disconnect the socket from extension, magnet with rotating head to grab the plugs, and most importantly some rags stuffed down the sides to catch falling things (vital).

[B-R-Z]

I'm at 171k on my daily/mostly highway driven 2013 BRZ and while the car seems to run fine, it's something I am going to do in the spring. Is everyone for the most part following what this guy did? Definitely not planning on jacking up the motor.

[Mr.ac]

Originally Posted by B-R-Z

I'm at 171k on my daily/mostly highway driven 2013 BRZ and while the car seems to run fine, it's something I am going to do in the spring. Is everyone for the most part following what this guy did? Definitely not planning on jacking up the motor.

That's the way I did it. Takes time but it's doable

[YamahaR86]

Originally Posted by B-R-Z

I'm at 171k on my daily/mostly highway driven 2013 BRZ and while the car seems to run fine, it's something I am going to do in the spring. Is everyone for the most part following what this guy did? Definitely not planning on jacking up the motor.

I'm at 50k miles and planning on doing mine this way at 60k. I have a size medium-large hand so hopefully that plays to my advantage.

[toast]

My biggest tip is what someone said above, don't push your sockets all the way on your extension. You will spend more time separating them than anything else.

Also, use a length of fuel line to thread them in - slide the line over the plug, feed it in the hole and then spin the line and the plug will find its way into the threads. Only time you need the socket is to tighten it down.