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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous


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Old 05-02-2019, 11:17 PM   #1135
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Okay well I ordered the V2(spec) kit. UEL, Recirculated with the GT2860rs. I got the Delicious/EcuTek flash and go tune. JDl bumper bar. JDl oil cooler, Velox air/oil separator, and a vent boost gauge.. Do i need the low profile Fans or just the shroud? What else am I missing?

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Old 05-10-2019, 10:32 PM   #1136
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250-300whp fuel/boost dependent


If Iím wanting 400whp would I need a bigger turbo?


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Old 05-10-2019, 10:35 PM   #1137
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Anyone have a good review of the no-cut intercooler offered by JDL? I am looking for any opinions on performance, fitment, regrets, or installation problems.


I had no issues on the install with mine. I switched to a bigger intercooler because I want more power in the future.


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Old 05-10-2019, 11:43 PM   #1138
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If Iím wanting 400whp would I need a bigger turbo?
No, you can make 400whp with a GT2860RS, e85 and about 14psi.
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Old 05-11-2019, 04:00 AM   #1139
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No, you can make 400whp with a GT2860RS, e85 and about 14psi.
I'm going to have to get another shop to check out my car. My current tuner only has me making 300whp at 14psi on e85. I have a low compression built motor but with a 10psi wastegate spring and boost controller, I should be able to run close to 20 psi and make over 400whp on e85.
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Old 05-11-2019, 08:19 AM   #1140
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I'm going to have to get another shop to check out my car. My current tuner only has me making 300whp at 14psi on e85. I have a low compression built motor but with a 10psi wastegate spring and boost controller, I should be able to run close to 20 psi and make over 400whp on e85.
I forgot about your built low compression engine. That makes sense that your only making 300whp at 14psi on ethanol. Your turbo will be well out of its efficiency range at 20psi and you probably won't meet your goal without a bigger turbo.
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Old 05-12-2019, 08:37 PM   #1141
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I'm going to have to get another shop to check out my car. My current tuner only has me making 300whp at 14psi on e85. I have a low compression built motor but with a 10psi wastegate spring and boost controller, I should be able to run close to 20 psi and make over 400whp on e85.

Is it safe to run E85 with the 2860r on low boost 7psi, on the stock engine?
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Old 05-13-2019, 02:29 AM   #1142
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I had no issues on the install with mine. I switched to a bigger intercooler because I want more power in the future.


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Do you know what the power limitations are for the non-cut intercooler? Did you see instant hp/tq increases when you made the change?
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Old 05-13-2019, 01:14 PM   #1143
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Is it safe to run E85 with the 2860r on low boost 7psi, on the stock engine?
as safe as you can be. Biggest things that make these motor go pop is bad tune, and improper install. As with any modification and with adding more power/boost the best you can do is limit your risk. You will never 100% get rid of it.
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Old 05-13-2019, 02:18 PM   #1144
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So I ordered the EcuTek/Delicious Flash and Go E-tune software w/Bluetooth, cable and license already. . My tuner/installer recommended doing E85 because it runs much cooler/safer. Thinking I just order the flex fuel add on to the tune and run with stock injectors and stock fuel pump if I want to keep it low boost on stock engine.
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Old 05-13-2019, 02:23 PM   #1145
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So I ordered the EcuTek/Delicious Flash and Go E-tune software w/Bluetooth, cable and license already. . My tuner/installer recommended doing E85 because it runs much cooler/safer. Thinking I just order the flex fuel add on to the tune and run with stock injectors and stock fuel pump if I want to keep it low boost on stock engine.
I recommend ID 1050x injectors and FBM Walbro 485 fuel pump kit. Having fueling overhead is never a bad thing. The stock injectors and pump will likely be maxed out or close to it when you run full E85. Running boost + E85 through stock injectors and pump at full duty cycle will shorten their lifespan at best, and could create tuning headaches in the future.
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Old 05-22-2019, 07:29 PM   #1146
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Does anyone have any tips for the install? I'll be doing it in a few weeks and one of the parts I'm most apprehensive about is the oil pan removal/replacement. My plan is to use a heat gun and fishing wire to cut through the sealant, a pry bar if necessary, and then a razor blade or a scouring pad to clean the mating surface. Any tips specifically on technique for applying the new sealant? I'm worried about having enough to make a seal but also not overdoing it. I also read that you shouldn't tighten the bolts all the way until the sealant has hardened/cured/whatever.
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Old 05-22-2019, 08:36 PM   #1147
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Does anyone have any tips for the install? I'll be doing it in a few weeks and one of the parts I'm most apprehensive about is the oil pan removal/replacement. My plan is to use a heat gun and fishing wire to cut through the sealant, a pry bar if necessary, and then a razor blade or a scouring pad to clean the mating surface. Any tips specifically on technique for applying the new sealant? I'm worried about having enough to make a seal but also not overdoing it. I also read that you shouldn't tighten the bolts all the way until the sealant has hardened/cured/whatever.
I used a pry bar and went around the oil pan as much as I could. Once it starts to come off, you just need to pull down hard with your hands ( not the pry bar). I sat under the car getting oil dripped on my glasses for about 25 minutes using a razor blade to scrape off old sealant on the engine upper oil pan mating surface ( using a new oil pan tapped with a weld on bung). Apply the sealant to your oil pan using a very small bead in the middle of the flat surface, spreading evenly with a gloved finger. Your goal is to not have it squeezing out of either side when you tighten it down.

I don't know anything about not tightening it down until it's cured, that seems like nonsense to me. You want it to cure when it's in its fixed position. Just don't get it hot or add oil until it has cured.
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Old 05-22-2019, 08:52 PM   #1148
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Thanks. Maybe the instruction I saw wasn't to wait until it was completely cured, but to give it a few minutes before tightening. The way I understood it was that immediately tightening the pan all the way would cause the sealant to smush out instead of being where it needs to be to make the seal.

I was also considering installing an oil baffle while I have the pan off, as a means of future-proofing. Any opinion on this?
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