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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain. |
View Poll Results: How do you downshift? | |||
Nothing | 16 | 10.39% | |
Rev Match Only | 116 | 75.32% | |
Double clutch | 22 | 14.29% | |
Voters: 154. You may not vote on this poll |
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09-01-2017, 02:09 AM | #113 |
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This thread is as salty as the Dead Sea and I love it
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09-01-2017, 02:14 AM | #114 |
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Old wives tail. Power is just the results of torque at a given RPM.
Torque is a force (usually expressed as a moment of a force in ftlb or Nm due to it's angular nature about a pivot) Power is energy over time taken - usually expressed in HP or Watts. Both are energy over time. Watts is Joules per second, a HP is approximately 750 watts. RPM is a speed. Speed is distance over time - revolutions per minute. Work done = force * distance. Power = Work done / time. Given those facts to any high school graduate studying maths and they will rearrange to show that. Power = Torque * RPM * Constant. The constant only depends on the units you use. However it can be simplified to just: Power ~= Torque * RPM. It's the same thing as: PV=nRT or PV ~= nT For any given torque and rpm I can give you the power. For any given power and rpm I can give you the torque. Ergo torque and power are different expressions of the same thing.
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09-01-2017, 11:21 AM | #115 | |||
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Quote:
There's going to be next to zero slippage when letting out the clutch in neutral, and no noticeable wear from that. Same thing with a properly rev matched upshift or downshift. The slippage from taking off once from a stop is more wear on the clutch than a week (or more) of double clutching shifts. Quote:
Quote:
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09-01-2017, 07:00 PM | #116 | |
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So I explain how I think that it harms the car and explain how transmissions work and the job syncros that makes it unessary for double clutching on a syncro transsimison. I never said once that it would shatter the gear box but your comment made it sound that way. There are lots of parts that you can wear out by doing one thing or another. If you rest your hand on the shifter all the time you can increase wear on your gear fork even says so in your hand book. The more you use and hold the clutch either fully depressed or just resting your foot on it can wear out your clutch and throw out bearing that's why it's recommend sitting in N at a light. Like I have said before it's not nessary. This not a jab it's a fact that's why we have syncros. With it not nessary it's your car drive it how you want to drive it. Be happy in how you drive we all have different driving styles techniques ect. With regards to the spring in my og post I said it could be changed with a spring of a different rate and ultramaroons clutch adjustment for even better clutch feel. Personally I think not having a spring there can promote wear and I've explained how I think that. Maybe your right maybe your wrong I don't know since I am not going to be removing it and keeping out. Note I did take it out to see the feel and travel so in my application I put it back in I might try the Mtec spring or just do ultramaroons adjustment. I don't have any hard data on to the same point neither do you so until I do I will maintain my opinion and I respect you for keeping yours. Remember just cause you don't see or feel it now dosent mean it's still not happing with regards to wear. Example in 3 of my subies my front right strut bushing would always ware faster than the driver side and cause a light clunk when turning. Nothing was moded maybe I make to many right turns or it was just more prone to ware I don't know. |
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09-01-2017, 09:42 PM | #117 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
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09-01-2017, 10:58 PM | #118 | ||
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Maybe I'm not as funny as others o well. Sorry for the poor humor attempt everyone. Please try not to take a fragment from a compleat sentence and take it out of context to make it fit your narrow view though. But the fact is your clutch and throw out bearing will wear is the down side to D.C. The up side with revmatching and D.C saves syncros and can help you get into 1st from a higher speed. Is it nessary no can you do it yes. Do what makes you happy. |
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09-01-2017, 11:42 PM | #119 | |
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Before my engine replacement, my transmission was smooth. I could drop into first easily, and I never got the crunching people talked about here. I thought what people were describing was operator error. Since I got the car back with the new engine, the exact same transmission feels completely different. Now it no longer goes into first very easily, third and fifth are notchy or crunchy on downshifts, and if I really pull hard it will crunch going into sixth. It also feels like the gates are not quite in the same place. For example, downshifting from fifth to fourth used to be a silky smooth motion, but now the shifter will get hung up halfway down. And I now have the sixth gear whine above 70 mph. I took it back in to have it checked. The tech who did the engine swap drove it and said this was normal behavior. I drove with him riding along and pointed out what it was doing, and he still said it was normal. I don't understand what happened. I don't think it's damage from the loss of the engine. It makes me wonder if there's something to the claims people have made about the transmission mount bushings improving shifting, as in perhaps the crunchy transmissions are somehow not aligned properly when the mount is torqued down. |
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09-01-2017, 11:54 PM | #120 | |
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Do you notice more noise sitting in neutral, especially first thing in the morning? Or *shudder* maybe they underfilled it.
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09-02-2017, 01:02 AM | #121 |
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Nope. They didn't drain and refill it. I don't think the transmission even left the vehicle for the engine swap. The fluid in it only had 5,000 miles on it at the time. The tech stuck his finger in it while it was on the lift, and the level was fine.
The tech did suggest I try refilling with Motul to see if it might smooth it out, so I may give it a shot. But it wasn't the fluid that changed. It was doing great with that same fill before the engine swap. Nope. It sounds the same in neutral. The only change in sound is above 70 mph, and of course the crunches (which I feel more than hear). |
The Following User Says Thank You to extrashaky For This Useful Post: | Ultramaroon (09-02-2017) |
09-02-2017, 02:46 PM | #122 |
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Man, I've got nothing. We've been following each other here for years so I know you have your shit together.
I reread your description. Are you absolutely sure the clutch really fully disengages? This is something that I learned to consider after having a discussion with @Stang70Fastback about actually double-clutching versus blipping in neutral for the first gear downshift. I didn't believe him until I tried it, but even with the clutch disengaged, if I wind up the engine on a roll it contributes just enough to get things matched up. So my point is, if the clutch drags even a teeny tiny bit, maybe thats causing the symptoms you're feeling.
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09-02-2017, 03:16 PM | #123 | |
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Quote:
It can be driven like it is now that I've gotten used to the difference. I have 27K miles left on the warranty, and I have already gotten my complaint in, so if it's doing damage it should make itself known before the clock runs out. I'm covered as long as I don't do anything stupid to it. I just thought it was interesting that not only are transmission installs different from car to car, they're different in the same car. |
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09-02-2017, 03:49 PM | #124 |
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Agreed. I've found that this machine doesn't hide much. Delightfully old school feel.
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09-02-2017, 06:15 PM | #125 |
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Paragraph getting too long guys... falling asleep here.
I only double clutch the few times I grind my gears... |
09-02-2017, 08:06 PM | #126 |
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Short attention span on the Fail Boat.
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