06-04-2018, 10:22 PM | #3333 | |
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Same argument I hear about wings and splitters (not going fast enough to matter) and even interior removal (its free, everyone should be allowed) They have other classes for that. It's allowed. Just not in STX.
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06-04-2018, 10:40 PM | #3334 | |
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06-04-2018, 10:46 PM | #3335 |
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3.2 BODYWORK
A. Accessories, gauges, indicators, lights - - - - >and other appearance, comfort and convenience modifications which have no effect on performance and/ or handling and do not materially reduce the weight of the car are per- mitted.<----------- This does not allow driver’s seat substitutions, or the removal of “tow hooks” or “tie-down loops.” Delayed shutdown devices such as the “Turbo Timer,” which perform no function while the car is in motion, are permitted. This does permit the installation of an additional mirror (e.g., Wink), but does not allow the removal of the original mirror. Does this section not cover what I want. Appearance and convenience dosent reduce the weight or effect performance or handling? Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk |
06-04-2018, 11:12 PM | #3336 | |
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Hood vents are a key part to the design of this kit: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=115909 And who's to say it doesn't offer a benefit without other visual modifications? National level autox is definitely fast enough to benefit from aero modifications. If there's any perception that it becomes a 'must have' mod that decreases streetability it doesn't fit the 'spirit of the class' imo. There is also the fact which you have mentioned that it's there to lower engine bay temperatures which is absolutely a performance enhancement for anyone running autox in hot weather as these engines do pull timing when heat soaked. Just go ahead and run it locally, unless you're beating everyone by a significant margin and there's some sour grapes nobody will care. No point in trying to prove to a bunch of internet nobodies it's legal - it isn't. Worst case scenario someone gets mad, you apologize, show up next event in prepared class/SM or with a mismatched stock hood and beat them anyway. |
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06-05-2018, 07:51 AM | #3337 |
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You misunderstand, I'm not trying to prove anything to anyone. I am just trying to understand the rules mo better your explanation does that for me perfectly, thank you.
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06-05-2018, 08:54 AM | #3338 |
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Also remember the goal is a single set of rules for everyone, not for each car.
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The Following User Says Thank You to cjd For This Useful Post: | strat61caster (06-05-2018) |
06-05-2018, 08:58 AM | #3339 |
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strat61caster makes a really good point too. If you are only running locally, like I am, a couple things that aren't strictly within the rules will probably not bother anyone, especially if you aren't winning by excessive margins. I started by askoing others in my class if what I had done bothered them, and nobody cared.
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06-05-2018, 10:08 AM | #3340 | |
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The Following User Says Thank You to strat61caster For This Useful Post: | jbailey8748 (06-05-2018) |
06-07-2018, 07:49 AM | #3341 |
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I've been searching through this thread and can't find anything for what pressures people are using for rivals. I've been using 31/28 lately and the car feels too vague. I'm thinking about trying something like 35/31 but I don't have much opportunity to test before Bristol in July. Any recommendations for good pressures to try?
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06-07-2018, 08:37 AM | #3342 | |
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Asphalt I run even lower, usually start at 26. I may be way off base...
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06-09-2018, 08:13 PM | #3344 |
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28 square is what I run with HoosierStones, I ran Rivals for the first time 2psi higher in hoping for better steering response. Did it work? Not sure, need to toy with it more.
On another note I was initially running -3.0 front camber then quickly realized that’s NOT enough. I cranked it up to -3.5 and it was noticeably better but I think I’m still a little short of the amount of front camber I really need. I’m hoping to test out close to -4.0 front camber next weekend. From the feedback I’ve been given from multi sources it seems the Rivals are more camber sensitive, they need more than the RE71’s... |
06-10-2018, 04:54 PM | #3345 |
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Introducing myself. I ran STX for 5-6 years in my 2002 WRX (I had started what became the definitive STX setup thread over on NASIOC). Won a few STX titles (locally only) before I quit autocross for ~5 years. I was burned by the STX rule changes in the past (specifically the 265 tire allowance for RWD that dethroned the 2.0L WRX from its title as "the car to have" for STX, and later the inclusion of the newer 2.5L WRX models into STX. So I'm wary of rule changes burning me again.
With that said, I'm building the BRZ for me. I have an end vision in mind, and that will be in SM class, where I'll probably lose every event but at least the car will be fun. Along the way, though, I would like to build the car to be reasonably competitive in STX, and maybe I'll stick around in the class if I like the way the car drives. Once I got my BRZ I got back into autocross (casually) and ran CS with literally no setup other than RE71Rs (not even an alignment lol). Finally decided to move the BRZ to STX. Looking for some general setup advice. Will be running RS4s in 255/40, unless you can convince me otherwise. Know it's not the faster tire, but didn't like the wear on my RE71Rs, and with this being a semi-daily driver, wanted better wear. Also will be likely doing a few track days this summer or next, and I know the RS4s will survive that better. 1. I will have FA500 coilovers w/ custom rates to start with, with SPC control arms in the rear. Saw some recent conversation on this but wanted to check: If I lower ~1" to 1.5" in the rear, can I achieve 0 toe with the OEM toe arms? My end goal for camber in the rear will be -2 to -2.5 degrees. I know that lowering the car adds camber, but if I dial it out with the LCA I believe it will add toe out correct? I'm only familiar with mcpherson strut suspensions so any help here is appreciated. So maybe running more camber will be beneficial for getting 0 toe in the rear with the OE arms? 2. Fronts I will run the FA camber plates with an OEM crash bolt in the top hole. Hoping for -3 camber but would love more (around -3.5?). Any thoughts as to if this is possible? Maybe I should consider a different (eccentric) camber bolt? I seem to recall running 2 camber bolts up front in my WRX without camber plates, but I couldn't remember if you could run camber plates + 2 camber bolts or not. 3. Could you elaborate more on what you found here regarding the axle issues? Really sorry for the long post. Brevity is not in my skillset. The main goal of this post is to avoid multiple trips to the alignment shop - trying to get it right the first time (don't want to find out I need more parts or need to change ride height at the shop). |
06-10-2018, 09:21 PM | #3346 | |
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People run -4+ camber and I still don’t understand why. It’s all not simply about ideal camber wear. Just IMO Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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