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03-12-2019, 11:53 PM | #29 | |
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Your first post about the place that tested and checked the battery you said it was at 12.6v which is actually on the low side for a charged battery. It should be about 13.3 at full charge. |
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03-12-2019, 11:55 PM | #30 | |
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Is the battery presently in your car, large enough (CCA - Cold Cranking Amps) to adequately run your car? Maybe someone put a cheapo, under rated one, in your car? Personally, I spent too damn many years with old, weak batteries and jumper cables on the front seat, to put up with a flaky battery. Batteries are "one strike and you are out" with me anymore. Maybe it's because my days of push starting a car are over (hell, I can hardly get out of one these days). humfrz |
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The Following User Says Thank You to humfrz For This Useful Post: | Ultramaroon (03-13-2019) |
03-13-2019, 12:06 AM | #31 | |
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Thats why I was surprised when the guy told me to save my money as my battery was still ok. Thought he would be glad to sell me a battery. The battery I have in the vehicle atm is the one recommended on this website : https://www.batteriesplus.com.au/toyota-fittment-guide/ Exide Extreme X55D23DMF 650 CCA which should be plenty considering the stock battery is 440 CCA ? |
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03-13-2019, 12:07 AM | #32 | |
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Hmm maybe.. the place that did the 2nd test yesterday when I was about to buy a new battery showed a 12.8V rating |
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03-13-2019, 12:15 AM | #33 |
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It would kill me too. I agree that it's likely something minor.
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03-13-2019, 12:16 AM | #34 |
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Well, hmmm... IF the battery is of the proper size and is healthy, as ol @NoHaveMSG pointed out, maybe it's time to check the alternator.
A quick & dirty test is shown here: https://www.aa1car.com/library/battery_runs_down.htm humfrz |
03-13-2019, 12:17 AM | #35 | |
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03-13-2019, 12:19 AM | #36 |
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I guess I should elaborate a little more and I am a bit too lazy to search it right now. Most 12v batteries are in the 12.6-13.3v range when fully charged. If the car had been running for any amount of time when checked the voltage should be up around 13. Though if he had load tested it before it could have pulled off the residual charge, though 12.6 is on the low end of that.
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03-13-2019, 12:20 AM | #37 | |
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humfrz |
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03-13-2019, 12:22 AM | #38 |
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13.8-14.2-ish
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03-13-2019, 12:22 AM | #39 |
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03-13-2019, 12:24 AM | #40 |
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I dunno, man. Grrrr....
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03-13-2019, 12:27 AM | #41 | |
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"Battery Voltage and State of Charge: 12.66v . . . . . . . . . . 100% 12.45v . . . . . . . . . . 75% 12.24v . . . . . . . . . . 50% 12.06v . . . . . . . . . . 25% 11.89v . . . . . . . . . . 0% (NOTE: these readings are at 80 degrees F. Battery voltage readings will drop with temperature roughly 0.01 volts for every 10 degrees F.) (At 30 degrees F. a fully charged battery will measure about 12.588 volts, and at zero degrees F it will measure about 12.516 volts.) CHECK BATTERY CHARGING VOLTAGE After charging the battery or jump starting the car, connect the voltmeter to the battery the same as before and not the charging voltage. A charging system that is operating normally should produce about 13.8 to 14.3 or more volts at idle. If the charging voltage is less than 13.0 volts, the alternator is not putting out enough voltage and current to keep the battery charged." End of quote. (I scraped that off the Internet, so it must be true - ) humfrz |
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03-13-2019, 01:50 AM | #42 |
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Anyone know if I can buy a new battery to give it a shot, and the problem still persists, if I swap back the current battery and leave the newly bought battery aside for when the current one actually dies. Will it maintain its charge if it is stored away or will it slowly trickle away after having been used for a short period of time even though it is not connected to anything ?
I figure the battery is worth a shot and even if it isnt the battery Ill have a spare for the future ? But only if it will maintain its charge for future use |
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