Collection of motor failures! Please help compile to help everyone!

[Astroboy]

Originally Posted by sam69

Pic he sent me of an oil gallery half blocked with silicone and it doesn't take much imagination to think what would happen when this stuff starts floating around oil galleries/motor

Will see if he has pics of the oil pick up cause as said before he reckons the motor was just full of it

Did this motor go out aswell?


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[sam69]

No apparently it had only done a bit over 4000 Km when pulled apart for a rebuild so it hadn't but he said it would have sooner or later.

Originally Posted by Astroboy

Did this motor go out aswell?


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[pantdino]

[QUOTE=Luckrider;2376630]Time to revive the thread.

What failed (if you know): The motor hasn't been torn into yet. It sounds like a spun bearing.
Mileage: 38,000
How it failed Driving down the highway doing about 50mph. It started to make a funny clunking noise. It was driven maybe a mile. The motor stalled on the exit ramp. Cranking twice, the motor died on startup and killed the battery. I picked the car back up from Subaru 3 weeks after the incident and when fired up, it made a loud rattling noise that smoothed out to a clatter when the idle came down. It was then shut right off. When on the highway, there was no oil light, no extra heat showing on the coolant guage on the dash
Circumstances when it went out- slow and gradual or just boom See above
Results of warranty claim? Denied. The car was blacklisted at a previous dealer for having a header which forced the dealership the car was brought to to call Subaru. The dealership looking at the car confirmed that if it wasn't for this note, the car would have been repaired already. SoA specified that modifications are not the cause of denial on the warranty. They state the one drop of oil on the outside of the drain pain (on the drain plug) was proof of failure of service. There was no oil spray anywhere under the car.
And of course... modifications to the car, your use of the car Daily Driver/Mountain Road carver/Toy. Modifications include an Openflash Header and Tune.
Last oil change 5,000 miles.The oil level was checked less than 3 days prior to failure when I added washer fluid. Oil showed on the dipstick after the failure. The service department says they added 4 quarts to fill.
List of services performed, IE, recent reflash etc. Nothing Recent. There was probably 3,000 since the last reflash running 93oct.

QUOTE]


"They state the one drop of oil on the outside of the drain pain (on the drain plug) was proof of failure of service. "


So their contention is that a new crush washer was not used and 4 qts of oil dripped out past the old washer? That's ridiculous.

[pantdino]

How many motor failure warranty claims in NON-forced induction cars have been denied under these circumstances?:


1) oil changes done by dealer at <= 7500 miles


2) oil changes done by independent at <=7500 miles


3) oil changes done by owner at <=7500 miles w proof of oil and filter purchase receipts


Seems like the dealers / manufacturers tend to blame the owner under the flimsiest of pretenses and let the owner sue them to get justice.

[pantdino]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Purely anecdotal since I am not going through all the threads to compile data but many (most?) of the stories about these failures start with something long the lines of "I had just been on the highway a couple of minutes when...".
Now, I certainly don't know if everybody takes ramps like I do but I do know that I use them as very short tracks. I can easily be at or above the speed limit by the time I hit the highway on some of the bigger ones. There can be some pretty heavy lateral force involved and although I am not familiar with the oil pump orientation I would have to think that if it was floating or rubbing on the housing this could jamb it temporarily and reduce the volume considerably.


HMMMMM you may be onto something there.

Anyone know where the oil pickup is in the sump? Under lateral load the oil will tend to move to the outside surface of the sump, which could lead to oil starvation if the level is low and the pickup is on the inside.


There were M3s on which it was advised to run the car with an extra quart of oil in the sump if you were doing a track day.

[pantdino]

Originally Posted by RobertPaulson

when was the last time you checked your oil? i check weekly.

Page 283 of the 2013 BRZ Owners Manual says:


Listed below are the general maintenance items that should be performed

at the intervals specified in the “Warranty and Maintenance

Booklet”. It is recommended that any problem you notice should be

brought to the attention of your SUBARU dealer or qualified service

shop for advice.

Battery Check the connections.
(P. 300)

Brake fluid At the correct level? (→P. 298)

Engine coolant At the correct level? (→P. 296)

Engine oil At the correct level? (→P. 293)



Exhaust system No fumes or strange sounds?

Radiator/condenser/hoses Not blocked with foreign matter?


(→P. 298)

Washer fluid At the correct level? (→P. 304)




The Warranty and Maintenance booklet then shows oil maintenance being Replace at 7,500 mi / 7.5 mo. (No entries for Inspect)


So there is nothing in the owners manual about having to check your oil weekly or any other frequency.


A new engine should not burn or otherwise lose oil.

[Astroboy]

[quote=pantdino;2382094]

Originally Posted by Luckrider

Time to revive the thread.

What failed (if you know): The motor hasn't been torn into yet. It sounds like a spun bearing.
Mileage: 38,000
How it failed Driving down the highway doing about 50mph. It started to make a funny clunking noise. It was driven maybe a mile. The motor stalled on the exit ramp. Cranking twice, the motor died on startup and killed the battery. I picked the car back up from Subaru 3 weeks after the incident and when fired up, it made a loud rattling noise that smoothed out to a clatter when the idle came down. It was then shut right off. When on the highway, there was no oil light, no extra heat showing on the coolant guage on the dash
Circumstances when it went out- slow and gradual or just boom See above
Results of warranty claim? Denied. The car was blacklisted at a previous dealer for having a header which forced the dealership the car was brought to to call Subaru. The dealership looking at the car confirmed that if it wasn't for this note, the car would have been repaired already. SoA specified that modifications are not the cause of denial on the warranty. They state the one drop of oil on the outside of the drain pain (on the drain plug) was proof of failure of service. There was no oil spray anywhere under the car.
And of course... modifications to the car, your use of the car Daily Driver/Mountain Road carver/Toy. Modifications include an Openflash Header and Tune.
Last oil change 5,000 miles.The oil level was checked less than 3 days prior to failure when I added washer fluid. Oil showed on the dipstick after the failure. The service department says they added 4 quarts to fill.
List of services performed, IE, recent reflash etc. Nothing Recent. There was probably 3,000 since the last reflash running 93oct.

QUOTE]


"They state the one drop of oil on the outside of the drain pain (on the drain plug) was proof of failure of service. "


So their contention is that a new crush washer was not used and 4 qts of oil dripped out past the old washer? That's ridiculous.

Wow did it really drip out 4 full quarts!?

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[Astroboy]

Why are most of these failures are in the 30k millage area. I'm starting to worry for I am at 31k and boosted

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[Luckrider]

Originally Posted by pantdino

So their contention is that a new crush washer was not used and 4 qts of oil dripped out past the old washer? That's ridiculous.

It certainly did not drop 4 quarts of oil. There was not a single drop anywhere but the drain plug. I would say the new crush ring is accurate, but I did the change myself and know a crush ring was on there.

Originally Posted by pantdino

How many motor failure warranty claims in NON-forced induction cars have been denied under these circumstances?:


1) oil changes done by dealer at <= 7500 miles


2) oil changes done by independent at <=7500 miles


3) oil changes done by owner at <=7500 miles w proof of oil and filter purchase receipts


Seems like the dealers / manufacturers tend to blame the owner under the flimsiest of pretenses and let the owner sue them to get justice.

This pretty much seems to be it. I did all of my oil changes and it is frustrating that they won't even touch the car beyond now agreeing to tear the whole block down just to what I will guess is eventually deny the warranty and give it to me in parts.

Originally Posted by pantdino

Anyone know where the oil pickup is in the sump? Under lateral load the oil will tend to move to the outside surface of the sump, which could lead to oil starvation if the level is low and the pickup is on the inside.


There were M3s on which it was advised to run the car with an extra quart of oil in the sump if you were doing a track day.

There was a mention earlier about cars losing it under light power after getting on the highway and someone suspected that tight onramps were causing oiling issues. I was driving a couple of days after that theory was posted and realized it started making noise right after getting on the highway with a 270° onramp.

Originally Posted by pantdino

Page 283 of the 2013 BRZ Owners Manual says:


Listed below are the general maintenance items that should be performed

at the intervals specified in the “Warranty and Maintenance

Booklet”. It is recommended that any problem you notice should be

brought to the attention of your SUBARU dealer or qualified service

shop for advice.

Battery Check the connections.
(P. 300)

Brake fluid At the correct level? (→P. 298)

Engine coolant At the correct level? (→P. 296)

Engine oil At the correct level? (→P. 293)



Exhaust system No fumes or strange sounds?

Radiator/condenser/hoses Not blocked with foreign matter?


(→P. 298)

Washer fluid At the correct level? (→P. 304)




The Warranty and Maintenance booklet then shows oil maintenance being Replace at 7,500 mi / 7.5 mo. (No entries for Inspect)


So there is nothing in the owners manual about having to check your oil weekly or any other frequency.


A new engine should not burn or otherwise lose oil.

On top of that, it says they recommend taking it to the dealer. They legally cannot require you to unless they pay for the parts and labor.

[quote=Astroboy;2382136]

Originally Posted by pantdino

Wow did it really drip out 4 full quarts!?

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No, it didn't drip out 4 quarts. The car registers 4 quarts as empty on the dipstick and the stick had oil when we pulled it (between the motor letting go and it being dragged to the dealer). The tech claims he put 4 quarts in to full, but that makes me think it was overfilled at the dealership if that is the truth. It is possible since a normal oil change would take 6 quarts for me and put the level on the middle of the stick.

[Braces]

Originally Posted by pantdino

Page 283 of the 2013 BRZ Owners Manual says:




A new engine should not burn or otherwise lose oil.[/B]

Not exactly true. I've owned new german vehicles in the past that seemed to use oil during the initial break in period. I always thought it was odd, but the dealership assured me that it was normal. Something about the rings needing time to seat or bed. Sure enough ... after the 1st couple of months .... it stopped using oil. Not sure about japanese motors though.

[brzbrad]

Spun rod bearing
26k
Highway driving, low RPM. Heard a slight knocking noise when at ~3k rpm, babied it to try get to a shop, motor stalled a short while later.
Not covered under warranty because of mods.
Mods: Full exhaust, intake, lightened pulleys, tune.
DD, some spirited driving, one track day.
Last oil change at 25k, kept up with all necessary maintenance.

Been waiting for the shop to finish the rebuild for almost 3 months now...

[Lantana frs]

From my experience I would avoid aftermarket pulleys and raising the rev limit. Also, not driving like an asshole will probably help. Race and replace.

[brzbrad]

Originally Posted by Lantana frs

From my experience I would avoid aftermarket pulleys and raising the rev limit. Also, not driving like an asshole will probably help. Race and replace.

I've had a couple people say that about pulleys to me now (of course after this happened...) and driving like an asshole?

[humfrz]

[QUOTE=brzbrad;2806629]I've had a couple people say that about pulleys to me now (of course after this happened...) and driving like an asshole? [QUOTE]

Of course, don't all of us up here in the PNW drive like that ..... ??




humfrz