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Mechanical Maintenance (Oil, Fluids, Break-In, Servicing) Everything related to the mechanical maintenance of the FR-S and BRZ |
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01-19-2017, 06:05 AM | #29 | |
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Gotta filter through that noise...
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Finally found a youtube vid that shows what I'm experiencing. [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4UmyCoG7Lms"]Clutch bleed slave cylinder WRX STi manual long version - YouTube[/ame] Anyone else have the same experience, or does your clutch come back up by itself? I don't know what the helper spring is, or where it is, but this is my actual process: 1) Crack bleeder valve 2) Friend will push clutch all the way down 3) Close bleeder valve 4) Clutch stays stuck to floor 5) Slowly use hand to pull clutch back up 6) Repeat |
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01-19-2017, 12:58 PM | #30 |
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Just have to get in there with a flashlight and look at where the clutch pedal arm pivots. You'll see it.
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01-19-2017, 03:35 PM | #31 | |
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I have my spring removed and my pedal comes back up so I can't help you there. I have never bled my clutch with the spring still attached. EDIT: thinking about it again, I am not sure if cracking the bleeder valve first then pumping or reversing that order really matters as long as there isn't any suction from the pedal. but I have been doing my method for the brakes and clutch my whole life and never have tried your way so I am not sure.
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02-07-2017, 05:05 PM | #32 |
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If you are having to bleed your clutch (or brakes) at 35K, you have a leak in your hydraulic system.
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02-07-2017, 07:10 PM | #33 |
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if you see the fluid getting into a dark brown hue, it is always a good idea to bleed it regardless of the mileage.
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The Following User Says Thank You to ryoma For This Useful Post: | continuecrushing (02-07-2017) |
02-07-2017, 07:50 PM | #34 |
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The Following User Says Thank You to continuecrushing For This Useful Post: | tCsonfrs (03-01-2017) |
03-01-2017, 04:13 PM | #35 |
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04-28-2017, 11:18 AM | #36 |
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Question: if air gets in the clutch hydraulic system, bleeding thorugh the bleeder screw wouldn't actually get rid of the air since the clutch line and master cylinder are mounted above the slave cylinder, and thus bubbles would float up there and never be released by the slave cylinder bleeder screw, right? Perhaps unbolting the slave and hanging it higher than the master cylinder while bleeding would solve this issue?
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04-28-2017, 12:07 PM | #37 | |
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04-28-2017, 01:43 PM | #38 |
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Just put this on the other thread.
Every once in a while I will find a slave that will not bleed all the air out using the pedal method. I will then use a vacuum bleeder and then back to the pedal method. I am guessing that compressing the bubble in in the slave makes it smaller and it stays put. With the vacuum it expands the bubble and it then moves. No idea if this is what is really happening but it works (especially on new slaves). Hope this might help if you are having trouble. |
08-28-2017, 04:11 AM | #39 |
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What worked for me
Speed Bleeder Clutch Installation
Use only non-expired and unopened break fluid and dispose of hydraulic fluid responsibly. Break fluid is highly corrosive, clean the area well with water and towels. Please let me know of any errors or changes necessary for this post. Good luck Source Credits http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15363 Last edited by Savvy Tofu; 08-30-2017 at 08:27 PM. |
08-28-2017, 05:12 PM | #40 |
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So the reservoir for the clutch is separate from the brakes? Does anyone have a photo showing both? My Lotus uses the same one and makes it easy to bleed everything with a pressure bleeder kit. Easier than a vacuum kit to me. Fill the container with fresh fluid, attach to reservoir, pump to about 10 psi or so and then crack each nipple and catch contents until it runs clear. Close and move to the next one. No chance of air getting into system and only takes 1 person.
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08-28-2017, 08:21 PM | #41 | |
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08-29-2017, 12:38 AM | #42 | |
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