follow ft86club on our blog, twitter or facebook.
FT86CLUB
Ft86Club
Delicious Tuning
Register Garage Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Go Back   Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB > Technical Topics > Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing

Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing.


User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 07-20-2015, 12:59 PM   #1
dstrout
Member
 
dstrout's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Drives: 2013 BRZ
Location: Annapolis, MD
Posts: 82
Thanks: 18
Thanked 13 Times in 6 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Brake duct backing plates - which ones?

So I managed to get my brakes good and mushy this past weekend. It seems four 20-min track sessions in 95 deg will do that, even with RBF-600 and XP8's. So, brake ducts and an oil cooler are next on the list.

I am going to go with the APR inlets because I like my DRLs. The question is, whose backing plates? There are plates from APR, Project Mu, Touge Factory, Dremel, and probably others.

Does anybody have a recommendation for one over the other? I lean to TF, mostly because they are metal, but I am open to education and the voice of experience.

TIA!
dstrout is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2015, 02:54 PM   #2
crazyfrenchbiker
Hot Lava 6MT
 
crazyfrenchbiker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: Hot Lava FR-S
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 398
Thanks: 19
Thanked 78 Times in 60 Posts
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
I absolutely love the APR backing plates. Light, incredibly solid and handle heat great.
crazyfrenchbiker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2015, 02:59 PM   #3
Andreas83
Senior Member
 
Andreas83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Drives: 2013 Subaru BRZ
Location: Norway
Posts: 111
Thanks: 29
Thanked 85 Times in 46 Posts
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
TF for sure.
They lead the air to the center of the disc so it can pass out trough the cooling veins.
__________________
English is my 2. language. Typos might occur.

2013 BRZ, kraftwerks supercharged.
Skunk2 Ultra radiator with oilcooler
KW v3 - enkei 17x9 with PSS
Andreas83 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Andreas83 For This Useful Post:
wparsons (07-21-2015)
Old 07-21-2015, 10:42 AM   #4
wparsons
Senior Member
 
wparsons's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: 2013 Asphalt FR-S Manual
Location: Whitby, ON, Canada
Posts: 6,716
Thanks: 7,875
Thanked 3,351 Times in 2,134 Posts
Mentioned: 99 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Garage
^^ What he said. The others just blow air on the back of the disc, not into the center so it spreads through the vanes.
__________________
Light travels faster than sound, so people may appear to be bright until you hear them speak...
flickr
wparsons is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2015, 12:55 PM   #5
CSG Mike
 
CSG Mike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: S2000 CR
Location: Orange County
Posts: 14,522
Thanks: 8,911
Thanked 14,166 Times in 6,828 Posts
Mentioned: 966 Post(s)
Tagged: 14 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by dstrout View Post
So I managed to get my brakes good and mushy this past weekend. It seems four 20-min track sessions in 95 deg will do that, even with RBF-600 and XP8's. So, brake ducts and an oil cooler are next on the list.

I am going to go with the APR inlets because I like my DRLs. The question is, whose backing plates? There are plates from APR, Project Mu, Touge Factory, Dremel, and probably others.

Does anybody have a recommendation for one over the other? I lean to TF, mostly because they are metal, but I am open to education and the voice of experience.

TIA!
The easier solution is to upgrade your fluid to Torque RT700.
CSG Mike is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to CSG Mike For This Useful Post:
wparsons (07-21-2015)
Old 07-21-2015, 01:35 PM   #6
JDM4E
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Drives: Honda Accord Euro
Location: Europe
Posts: 204
Thanks: 251
Thanked 54 Times in 38 Posts
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
I have the same question. Which ones? Why has TF's that "missing" piece? It seems that a lot of air must "escape" because of that.

I liked the project Mju because they keep the brake shield, but it seems the air is routed to the edge of the disc which seems wrong too.
JDM4E is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2015, 02:47 PM   #7
Sleepless
Senior Member
 
Sleepless's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Drives: 2014 BRZ
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 639
Thanks: 299
Thanked 392 Times in 229 Posts
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Definitely try RT700 fluid first and possibly XP12s. I had those and the TF brake cooling setup and it was very good. Now have it with the StopTech kit and still on XP12s.
__________________
Sleepless is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Sleepless For This Useful Post:
CSG Mike (07-21-2015)
Old 07-21-2015, 03:32 PM   #8
dstrout
Member
 
dstrout's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Drives: 2013 BRZ
Location: Annapolis, MD
Posts: 82
Thanks: 18
Thanked 13 Times in 6 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Boo! In looking up the XP12s, I just found this on the web:

Quote:
READ THIS!

Carbotech brakes require their own, uncontaminated transfer layer made by Carbotech pads. If this is not done, you will not experience the full potential of the ceramic-kevlar compound.

You will need to do one of the following:

Resurface your old rotors
Completely remove the old transfer layer with a steel wire brush/flapper disc on a drill/grinder
New rotors
I completely failed to do that. I just put them on running against the stock rotors (with 20K miles on the stock pads). I did run them for about 2 weeks on the street, where I get plenty of 70-to-20 decelerations. Could not being on fresh rotors be part of the problem I ran into?

And more broadly, does that hold any time you switch compounds? I put my stock pads back on last night, and noticed the brakes felt very weak for the first few miles. They felt almost like there was grease on the rotors. By the end of todays commute they were back to feeling like "normal" brakes.
dstrout is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2015, 07:28 PM   #9
Mad_Mike
Senior Member
 
Mad_Mike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Drives: 2013 Scion FRS firestorm
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 307
Thanks: 31
Thanked 98 Times in 64 Posts
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by dstrout View Post
Boo! In looking up the XP12s, I just found this on the web:



I completely failed to do that. I just put them on running against the stock rotors (with 20K miles on the stock pads). I did run them for about 2 weeks on the street, where I get plenty of 70-to-20 decelerations. Could not being on fresh rotors be part of the problem I ran into?

And more broadly, does that hold any time you switch compounds? I put my stock pads back on last night, and noticed the brakes felt very weak for the first few miles. They felt almost like there was grease on the rotors. By the end of todays commute they were back to feeling like "normal" brakes.
I went from 30k miles on stock pads and rotors to xp10s with no issue.
__________________
Mad_Mike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2015, 01:23 AM   #10
Sleepless
Senior Member
 
Sleepless's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Drives: 2014 BRZ
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 639
Thanks: 299
Thanked 392 Times in 229 Posts
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad_Mike View Post
I went from 30k miles on stock pads and rotors to xp10s with no issue.
Yeah, I've not had any issues with switching between street/stock pads and Carbotech tack pads.
__________________
Sleepless is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2015, 09:26 PM   #11
lamawithonel
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Drives: 2014 Subaru BRZ Ltd.
Location: Mid-Atlantic
Posts: 53
Thanks: 131
Thanked 36 Times in 20 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by dstrout View Post
Boo! In looking up the XP12s, I just found this on the web:



I completely failed to do that. I just put them on running against the stock rotors (with 20K miles on the stock pads). I did run them for about 2 weeks on the street, where I get plenty of 70-to-20 decelerations. Could not being on fresh rotors be part of the problem I ran into?

And more broadly, does that hold any time you switch compounds? I put my stock pads back on last night, and noticed the brakes felt very weak for the first few miles. They felt almost like there was grease on the rotors. By the end of todays commute they were back to feeling like "normal" brakes.
You need to bed them in.

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-procedures/
__________________
*question everything*learn something*answer nothing*
lamawithonel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2015, 12:27 PM   #12
OkieSnuffBox
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Drives: '23 BRZ Limited
Location: OKC, OK
Posts: 1,982
Thanks: 658
Thanked 1,228 Times in 701 Posts
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
With Carbotechs, don't just do a few 70-20 stops. KEEP DOING it until the pedal gets soft and the brakes stink, then try not to use them getting home/pits/whatever, until they cool off.

BAM! Carbotechs are bedded.
OkieSnuffBox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2015, 02:07 PM   #13
dstrout
Member
 
dstrout's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Drives: 2013 BRZ
Location: Annapolis, MD
Posts: 82
Thanks: 18
Thanked 13 Times in 6 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by OkieSnuffBox View Post
With Carbotechs, don't just do a few 70-20 stops. KEEP DOING it until the pedal gets soft and the brakes stink, then try not to use them getting home/pits/whatever, until they cool off.

BAM! Carbotechs are bedded.
Heh - tough to do on a DD. But understood.
dstrout is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2015, 05:20 PM   #14
OkieSnuffBox
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Drives: '23 BRZ Limited
Location: OKC, OK
Posts: 1,982
Thanks: 658
Thanked 1,228 Times in 701 Posts
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by dstrout View Post
Heh - tough to do on a DD. But understood.
Just go find an old industrial park after hours, or a low traffic piece of road somewhere.
OkieSnuffBox is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FS: APR Brake Duct Hose and Backing Kit BRZ / FR-S $275 kanundrum Brakes, Suspension, Chassis 4 04-24-2015 11:24 AM
FS: Cusco Front & Rear Strut Bars / APR CF Brake Backing Plates & Hoses zeal86 Brakes, Suspension, Chassis 5 02-16-2015 02:34 PM
Brake backing plates with cooling pipe Lunatic Brakes, Suspension, Chassis 0 12-29-2014 04:52 PM
Project Mu - Brake Pads, Rotors and Brake Cooling Duct - FREE SHIPPING! eauto Brakes, Suspension, Chassis 255 10-15-2014 01:45 PM
APR Brake Ducts and Backing Plates digital_assassin Brakes, Suspension, Chassis 21 03-20-2014 03:50 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:39 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Garage vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.