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10-01-2013, 10:28 PM | #15 |
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Toe arms are not needed. We're also running both our shop cars without toe arms on zero toe ( technically we like a little though ) and -3 camber.
I'd be leery of a place selling you something just to sell you something... |
10-01-2013, 11:19 PM | #16 |
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The factory toe eccentric bushings have almost a degree of toe adjustment built in. 0.85 degrees. Thats a massive range. When I did my corner balance and alignment we tested the range. I am dropped 10mm in rear with - 1.5 camber. NO toe arms needed.
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10-01-2013, 11:24 PM | #17 |
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It took two of us less than 3 hours to change the springs. That's while messing around and doing a bunch of other stuff. They can easily be done within 2 hours.
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10-01-2013, 11:40 PM | #18 |
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I spent a whole day to change lowering springs on my old car cuz all bolts were rust ans I didnt hav air compressor. WD40 and a super long wrench were wat i used.
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10-01-2013, 11:49 PM | #19 | |
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Quote:
In the rear your toe will change but typically wont change more than +/-. 15 degrees worst case. But since you are doing LCAs its going to be more out of wack than standard drop.
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10-02-2013, 12:04 AM | #20 |
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Don't need toe arms. Give us a call we'll set ya straight.
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10-02-2013, 12:58 AM | #21 |
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You don't need any power tools, air compressors, or spring compressors. You only need a few wrenches and an Allen key set. These are also brand new cars so you shouldn't have to worry about rust or corrosion.
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01-06-2014, 10:01 PM | #22 | |
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Went in for an alignment today and the right rear couldn't pull in enough toe due to LCA camber affect on toe. Shop is best in Albuquerque, and they put me on their best Hunter in ground rack. I was in the bay as the tech had to bring my camber out to -2.4° just to get toe to 0.24° per side. Recommended max rear toe is 0.20° If you lower two or more inches and want to stay within factory specs, you'll need rear toe arms if you do LCA's. As you lower, you gain negative camber and positive toe in the rear. As you add positive camber with rear LCA' s, you gain positive toe. Upper control arms and bushings, like whiteline, don't affect toe, so even though I've said bad things about them in the past, unless your willing to also buy rear toe arms, you might consider UCA bushings. |
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01-07-2014, 08:06 AM | #23 |
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Toe will be affected by drop and final camber settings, they're not independent.
If you run adjustable upper control arms instead of lower control arms toe won't be affected by adjusting camber. They're not as easy to adjust, but will cause less headaches.
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01-07-2014, 08:55 AM | #24 |
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I'm dropped over 2" on Stance Super Sport Coilovers and Stance LCAs.
The lowest I could get my camber was -1.8 with 0 toe. I want to run -1.5 at most but that would cause toe out seeing how my stock links are already maxed. I'm getting SPL toe links to solve the issue. If you plan on running more camber, stock toe links should be fine. With these cars, as you increase camber, you get toe IN on the rear. You just pull the toe out. As you go lower, camber increases which means toe in increases. So, if you aren't trying to go super low and vastly alter your camber, your stock toe links should work fine. If you're making BIG alterations to height and camber, you'll want links/bushings for toe adjustment. I dropped over 2" in ride height and before alignment, was running close to -3 camber in the rear. I'm cutting that in half so I need some extra adjustment.
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01-07-2014, 10:51 AM | #25 |
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Depends on your experience when your car is at the alignment rack I guess. I am lowered around 1.4", camber is -2 in the rear, and was able to achieve 0 toe.
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01-07-2014, 01:00 PM | #26 | |
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Quote:
I'm posting this because until this thread, all other threads I read said no need for Toe Arms if only dropping 2" or less, which is incorrect if you don't want lots of rear camber like myself and LCA's are used to reduce it. Anything over -1.5 rear camber is more than I want. Factory spec rear camber is -1.2. |
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