camber plates and rough roads question.

[churchx]

Ultramaroon: my goals were similar. I tried camberbolts + camberplates .. it mostly worked ok, with exception of some road uneventies resulting in very loud metallic "hit" sounds, that i was too uncomfortable to drive with daily. Whiteline's Com-C eccentric topmounts should have been answer, but they failed to make one non binding if used on twins, thus ours were de-listed as being compatible. So i was between choice of max -2.2 camber with cambolts, or enough camber but unacceptable NVH result with camberplates on local crappy roads, or i too at one point considered slotting struts. Only recently i found out on my own via googling those PF bushings, somehow never saw them mentioned here before (Maybe because PF to be UK based, and most of their bushings offering is covered by better known Whiteline's/SPC alternatives? But in this case Whiteline has only stiffer rear bushing alternative for front LCA, not eccentric one (eccentric is front one, for extra caster). Maybe because they initially considered using Com-Cs?).

That did it for me, -3 front with stock suspension at stock height while keeping rubber top mounts. Now i don't have to steer around or drop speed at places where i had to suffer NVH problems but just daily drive normally, and also wear & grip on track should be much better.
As max with lowering springs with just cambolts (in both holes though) was reported as -2.5 (vs -2.2 to -2.3 stock height), i expect a bit more if both cambolts, this bushing + lowering too.

[finch1750]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

I have been following the suspension discussions since I started here. My goal is to get that magical -3 degrees plus a little wiggle room out of my bone stock suspension using the least invasive technique possible.

I got -2.5 from bolts only. I have slotted struts now and feel I could get -3 with OEM tophats. Wont know until next year when i get another track aligntment though

[cjd]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

I have been following the suspension discussions since I started here. My goal is to get that magical -3 degrees plus a little wiggle room out of my bone stock suspension using the least invasive technique possible.

Go look at the SSC thread. 17x8+40 and full crash bolt on Koni's and some folks see over 3° of negative camber. Also on Eibach springs, so a bit lower than stock. The real limiting factor is going to be how floppy the tires are, and whether there is risk of them hitting the lower spring perch.

There's no question for me - camber plates are the only option, because I don't want to try to fight with camber bolts at home. I may also prefer the extra road feel sometimes... though there are times I wish it were a little more comfy.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by cjd

The real limiting factor is going to be how floppy the tires are, and whether there is risk of them hitting the lower spring perch.

Stock wheels + stiff sidewalls = win for me.

Long term I see maybe playing with tire compounds but I'm taking my time getting to know the machine as it ages... um, breaks in.