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Subaru BRZ General Forum All discussions about the Subaru BRZ coupe


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Old 01-11-2016, 05:24 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Ultramaroon View Post
Detailed approach:
You need a fresh start because the leftovers are toast. You can have it trailered to a shop for another oil change. Ask to have the remainder saved in a clean container. Send it off for a used oil analysis to have it checked for contamination. Explain the situation so the analyst knows what to look for.
Or you can use your Subaru roadside assistance to have the car towed home, order a sampling kit from Blackstone (free) and do all that yourself. Catch the oil in the sample bottle as it drains, not from the contaminated drain pan you use (which is where a shop would likely dip for your sample). Be sure to indicate on your oil sample report that you took the sample cold, so they know to adjust for condensation. If you can't wait for the sample kit to arrive before getting the car back on the road, you can catch the sample in some other CLEAN, dry plastic or glass container that you can seal, then transfer it to the sample bottle once it arrives. I would email or call Blackstone for suggestions on what to use.

Put the oil sample double bottle in a padded envelope and send it via any method OTHER than USPS, because they suck hippo balls and will quarantine your sample for a month while they try to pull their heads out of their rectums to figure out that the container is not hazardous material. I usually send mine UPS Ground, but you may want to expedite yours to get your results faster.

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If you take it to a real shop to have the oil changed they can test the oil pressure.
You can do that yourself also. You can pick up a manual oil pressure test kit from Harbor Freight for $25 (or $20 with their 20% off coupon). It has a six foot hose on it so you can read the pressure while sitting in the car and can turn it off quickly if you have no pressure. You can either pull the oil pressure switch and put the manual fitting in its place, or there's a plug in the oil gallery on top of the engine next to the A/C compressor you can tap into if you want to be able to see both the manual gauge and the warning on your dash if you suspect the switch to be bad.

Probably easier to let a shop do all this, but it's not entirely necessary.

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Originally Posted by chaoskaze View Post
Mind if I ask a thing? Am I suppose to check oil when the engine is cold or when it's hot?
The manual says to check it at operating temp five minutes after shutdown. You wait five minutes to allow oil to drain back into the oil pan. HOWEVER, if your oil pressure light is on like the OP, you don't want to start it up to see how much is in it. In that instance just check it cold.

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"Keep in mind that the oil may have become diluted"
WTF? If my oil is "diluted" to the point where it reflects quantity on the dip stick I have bigger issues to deal with!
Which is one reason I send an oil sample off at every oil change. If you're burning the same volume of oil as the water going into it from a cracked head, you may not realize there's a problem. Modern oil doesn't turn milky the way it did 30 years ago when you get coolant in it.

My Cherokee had one of Chrysler's defective heads that cracked, and my Gladiator has an engine-driven mechanical fuel pump that will fill the crankcase with gasoline if the diaphragm inside ruptures. I'm used to just sending off samples as a standard part of the maintenance process.

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Regardless, 1qt/600mi would piss me off royally in a brand new car.
I suspect that's not included in there for the new cars. That's in there for when someone has been dogging the shit out of it for a few years and has started to burn oil, and they start wondering how much is too much. I'm at 49K now and still don't see any drop between changes.
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Old 01-11-2016, 05:48 PM   #30
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2015 - 16k miles - oil light came on..

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Originally Posted by Luftwaffel View Post


Still seems stupid and CYA on Subaru's part.

Wait, so new engine is suppose to burn more oil? >.>

Mine barely burns any when new... Now it's burning more... Totaled with Bad seal I guess.

I should have believe the Internet & red line all the line for that maximum seal during break-in. 😛


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Old 01-11-2016, 05:52 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by justatroll View Post
Understood. However didnt your Bullshit alarm go off when you read that?
If your engine is using 1.1 quarts for every 600 miles.....


Your engine is fucking broken.



In an 84 Suburban with 250,000 miles I would STILL be concerned that there is something wrong.


My BRZ has absolutely ZERO discernible oil consumption.
So I would consider 1 quart in 5000 miles to be excessive.
Oh, yeah. BS for sure but on my one HPDE session 2 summers ago I went through 8oz. Normally it doesn't use any but I like to crank the wheel hard over from time to time. A little bit doesn't surprise me and I was probably a bit generous with my estimate, Just like Subie probably was with theirs.
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Old 01-11-2016, 06:01 PM   #32
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Its a good way to not have to warranty engines that burn oil hahahaha!
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This thread got de-railed quick now it's just about Penis guitars
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Old 01-11-2016, 06:30 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by extrashaky View Post
Or you can use your Subaru roadside assistance to have the car towed home, order a sampling kit from Blackstone (free) and do all that yourself. Catch the oil in the sample bottle as it drains, not from the contaminated drain pan you use (which is where a shop would likely dip for your sample). Be sure to indicate on your oil sample report that you took the sample cold, so they know to adjust for condensation. If you can't wait for the sample kit to arrive before getting the car back on the road, you can catch the sample in some other CLEAN, dry plastic or glass container that you can seal, then transfer it to the sample bottle once it arrives. I would email or call Blackstone for suggestions on what to use.

Put the oil sample double bottle in a padded envelope and send it via any method OTHER than USPS, because they suck hippo balls and will quarantine your sample for a month while they try to pull their heads out of their rectums to figure out that the container is not hazardous material. I usually send mine UPS Ground, but you may want to expedite yours to get your results faster.
Hey, good call with the roadside assistance. I linked to Blackstone because you guys all use it. I haven't yet but will soon. Just installed my fumoto valve.

Quote:
Originally Posted by extrashaky View Post
You can do that yourself also. You can pick up a manual oil pressure test kit from Harbor Freight for $25 (or $20 with their 20% off coupon). It has a six foot hose on it so you can read the pressure while sitting in the car and can turn it off quickly if you have no pressure. You can either pull the oil pressure switch and put the manual fitting in its place, or there's a plug in the oil gallery on top of the engine next to the A/C compressor you can tap into if you want to be able to see both the manual gauge and the warning on your dash if you suspect the switch to be bad.

Probably easier to let a shop do all this, but it's not entirely necessary.
OP doesn't strike me as the DIY type, at least not yet. Let us be gentle with the young grasshopper.


Oh, and I'll restate my agreement with you guys that the published acceptable usage does smack of BS in a 21st century engine but, meh, like Strat said, #subielyfeyo.
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Old 01-13-2016, 03:41 AM   #34
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In the light of the day?....

OP look what i came across online O.o
@Ultramaroon @Tcoat @extrashaky @Luftwaffel @WGMGR @soulreapersteve @Ashikabi @justatroll @Nickosport @strat61caster @go_a_way1 @jawn @Stang70Fastback @Braces


Subaru Settles Oil Burning Class Action Lawsuit


http://topclassactions.com/lawsuit-s...ction-lawsuit/

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Old 01-13-2016, 04:00 AM   #35
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I don't think it includes us.

http://www.usatoday.com/story/money/...suit/12859865/

"The suit seeks to represent buyers of 2011-14 Foresters, the 2013 Legacy and 2013 Outback, all with 2.5-liter "Boxer" engines; and the 2012-13 Impreza and 2013 Crosstrek, with 2-liter "Boxer" engines."

Meh. Just check your oil. Once upon a time the conventional wisdom was to check your oil every time you pulled into a gas station. People actually carried extra cans and a spout in the trunk, and they remembered to punch the air hole in the other side so it would flow without excessive glugging.
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Old 01-13-2016, 04:30 AM   #36
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That class action is for the FB series engine, not FA.
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ineedyourdiddly
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Old 01-13-2016, 11:40 AM   #37
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That class action is for the FB series engine, not FA.
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Old 01-13-2016, 11:49 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by extrashaky View Post
. People actually carried extra cans and a spout in the trunk, and they remembered to punch the air hole in the other side so it would flow without excessive glugging.
Which was an absolute bitch when you didn't need a full quart. It was not uncommon to just let it keep getting lower until you needed more than a quart so you wouldn't have the hassle of an open can. Mind you the engines that were around when oil was in cans were far more tolerant of low oil then engines today. They also burned and blew more oil out though so sometimes the wait for a quart wasn't long.
I was amazed and overjoyed the first time I saw oil in a resealable plastic container!
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Old 01-13-2016, 12:32 PM   #39
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Which was an absolute bitch when you didn't need a full quart.
We carried "oil saver" snap-on can tops and made sure the cans were wedged upright in the trunk next to the mandatory tool box containing extra belts, a cap and rotor and points.

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I was amazed and overjoyed the first time I saw oil in a resealable plastic container!
But when they first came out, they were in round bottles with the spout in the middle, so that you needed a funnel, and they glugged worse than a can without a hole punched in it. It's taken for granted now, but we were overjoyed when we got those rectangular bottles with the spout on one side so that they pour smoothly. It irritates me now when I see someone try to pour one of those from the wrong side of the bottle. I want to scream, "DON'T YOU KNOW WHAT WE WENT THROUGH TO GET THAT FOR YOU!!!!"
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Old 01-13-2016, 12:44 PM   #40
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We carried "oil saver" snap-on can tops and made sure the cans were wedged upright in the trunk next to the mandatory tool box containing extra belts, a cap and rotor and points.



But when they first came out, they were in round bottles with the spout in the middle, so that you needed a funnel, and they glugged worse than a can without a hole punched in it. It's taken for granted now, but we were overjoyed when we got those rectangular bottles with the spout on one side so that they pour smoothly. It irritates me now when I see someone try to pour one of those from the wrong side of the bottle. I want to scream, "DON'T YOU KNOW WHAT WE WENT THROUGH TO GET THAT FOR YOU!!!!"
So which side is the right side to poor from?
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Old 01-13-2016, 12:46 PM   #41
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We carried "oil saver" snap-on can tops and made sure the cans were wedged upright in the trunk next to the mandatory tool box containing extra belts, a cap and rotor and points.



But when they first came out, they were in round bottles with the spout in the middle, so that you needed a funnel, and they glugged worse than a can without a hole punched in it. It's taken for granted now, but we were overjoyed when we got those rectangular bottles with the spout on one side so that they pour smoothly. It irritates me now when I see someone try to pour one of those from the wrong side of the bottle. I want to scream, "DON'T YOU KNOW WHAT WE WENT THROUGH TO GET THAT FOR YOU!!!!"
With you 100% on all points including carrying the spare parts. The lids rarely worked well for me though since the cans were almost invariably bent, warped or just off size somehow.
Whenever somebody goes on about old cars and they make the sweeping statement "they don't make them like they used too" my response is always "thank god, no they don't".
On the flip side there was nothing like doing a complete valve job in your laneway, in about 3 hours using nothing but 2 screwdrivers, 3 wrenches and a couple of sockets. Try that today.
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Old 01-13-2016, 12:47 PM   #42
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So which side is the right side to poor from?
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