Dealership is charging me $1725 to replace my OEM clutch for BR-Z

[White64Goat]

2001 SC1 Saturn, 284,000 miles, original clutch.................and still going...............

[S2kphile]

Try harder next time...That is all.

[a.beck]

OP if you're not trolling, you should seriously consider automatic gearboxes in future. The horror...

[venom8776]

Originally Posted by JohnS_Rosamond

Well according to the EXEDY part number stamped on the abused clutch it came out of an Impreza (something around 2004 or so).

Exedy 30100AA870

So, I vote Troll.

Hey JohnS_Rosamond, the OEM clutch is actually an EXEDY one. I saw it come out of my BR-Z as the mechanic was removing it from my BR-Z.

[venom8776]

Originally Posted by cwik

My mom learned to drive (not just stick, but *drive*) on my dad's manual '76 vette when it was new, and my BRZ is the first stick car my girlfriend ever drove. Aside from tricky blindspots, I think the BRZ is a wonderful car to learn manual on; it's light and easy to get going, the clutch is not heavy, it's a small car, giving you very little to worry about other than understanding how the shifter and clutch. I felt that even more so on my brother's S2K (it felt unstallable :P).

Every modern day car should be able to hold up to a few people learning to drive with 3 pedals on it without puking out. You shouldn't have to learn on a beater.

I learned how to drive stick on a Nissan Sentra 04 and a Ford Escort 92 a while ago. This clutch just was different to me (compared to the 350Z and Civic Si that I have driven before, which are a cinch). The third gear when I bought the car was slipping every single time I was shifting up.

[SVTSHC]

Originally Posted by venom8776

I learned how to drive stick on a Nissan Sentra 04 and a Ford Escort 92 a while ago. This clutch just was different to me (compared to the 350Z and Civic Si that I have driven before, which are a cinch). The third gear when I bought the car was slipping every single time I was shifting up.

I get that and all, but honestly dude you need to pay more attention when your shifting otherwise you're going to nuke this clutch too. If your slipping that often on every upshift you seriously have got to start releasing faster. I'm not saying dump it but find the point where it feels uncomfortable and dial it back from there till you get it right. If that doesn't work then adjust your grab point so it's lower; I personally hate a mid to high grab point so on my SVT I set my clutch to start grabbing damn near an inch off the floor .

[AZP Installs]

Just as an FYI, clutch job parts and labor shouldn't run more than $1000. We have fixed pricing for Subaru clutchs (haven't done any on the FRS/BRZ yet but don't expect it to be more, if anything LESS).

Our prices are listed on our website at http://azpinstalls.com/index.php?opt...=93&Itemid=126

-Mike Paisan


11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts.
Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.
Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs
"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

[AZP Installs]

The clutch should be covered under the 3/36k anyway though.

-Mike Paisan


11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts.
Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.
Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs
"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

[Yruyur]

Once the dealership determined there was no bluing on my flywheel they replaced the clutch and flywheel under warranty for my 4th gear grind issue. They did let new know that if they found bluing from abuse then it would nit be covered and quoted me about the same.

Sent from my flux capacitor using Taptalk

[ScionRacer]

Originally Posted by venom8776

I learned how to drive stick on a Nissan Sentra 04 and a Ford Escort 92 a while ago. This clutch just was different to me (compared to the 350Z and Civic Si that I have driven before, which are a cinch). The third gear when I bought the car was slipping every single time I was shifting up.

Are you resting your foot on the pedal in between shifts? if you had a car before that had a very low grab,then you might be one of those who use the free play like a dead pedal for your foot.I had a friend with a 90's plymouth laser who burnt a new clutch in 6 months that same way.I could smell clutch burning all the time while driving behind him.If you have a habit of doing that,definitely stop.

[himbo]

If there were issues with the clutch, the dealership shouldn't have charged a dime. Mikey from AZP is right, Subie will cover your first clutch under 36k or 3yrs.

If the clutch was defective, I can see it going bad quickly- otherwise, I have no idea what a person has to do to have a clutch go bad this quickly...

[jmaryt]

Originally Posted by Mitch

The planetary gearset in an automatic doesn't really slip. The place where you would get slip is the torque converter which uses the viscosity of the fluid in the converter to transfer power while allowing differences in speed between the input and output halves (no direct mechanical linkage) much the way slipping the clutch would allow you to do. The thing is, it can also lock the torque converter when slip isn't needed. Modern automatics do a great job of doing this early and seamlessly, which is why you see autos these days with just as good if not better fuel economy than their manual equivalents.

i don't doubt what you say,however,there is still a certain amount of slippage
in the gear train too! has to be, as it is immersed in an oil bath. yes! indeed there has been wonderful advances in torque converter technology,allowing the
"slush" to beat the stick in gas mileage, (highway) still i'll bet the stick will beat an auto in (real world) gas mileage "in town",with a driver that knows when to shift,because it is "'direct drive"and slippage is kept to an absolute minimum.

[20valvewynn83]

Originally Posted by DelayedBRZ

Since you've only had the car since August, why are you paying to have the OEM clutch replaced? Seems if anything went wrong the warranty should take care of parts failure at this point?

A clutch is a wear item and factory warranty doesn't cover a clutch. If you dont know how to drive a manual trans you will burn it up quick.

[Justin.b]

Originally Posted by AZP Installs

Just as an FYI, clutch job parts and labor shouldn't run more than $1000. We have fixed pricing for Subaru clutchs (haven't done any on the FRS/BRZ yet but don't expect it to be more, if anything LESS).

Our prices are listed on our website at http://azpinstalls.com/index.php?opt...=93&Itemid=126

-Mike Paisan


11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts.
Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.
Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs
"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

I'm assuming the extra charge is for the flywheel unless your department usually replaces that with a normal clutch service.

-Justin