Time to build a motor, what options have others found?

[protpibe]

Have your issues been diagnosed yet?

Seems like you're swatting a fly with a nuke bomb right now.

[cdrazic93]

Originally Posted by Pure Automotive

That weight is with the transmission in it already, its a finished running car.

I know, I'm taking about those who want to do an LS swap, they think it will be only a few lbs heavier than stock, but are forgetting the transmission that needs to go along with it too.

[Cross]

Originally Posted by protpibe

Have your issues been diagnosed yet?

Seems like you're swatting a fly with a nuke bomb right now.

No further updates besides the dealer agreeing the cams malfunctioning caused the issue and my car is drinking coolant.

[boarder1995]

Originally Posted by Pure Automotive

Really upsets the balance......






This is my full interior, 17x9.5 275/40/17 Drag Radial equipped, Full bodied with lip kits and all FRS with a 6.6Liter LS2 T56 swap in it. Look at that cross weight.

44/56 isn't bad at all. And 2919# total isn't but ~150-200#more than stock. A turbo kit, oil cooler, etc. will quickly add up to that weight, plus it's usually way out front.

[civicdrivr]

Originally Posted by boarder1995

44/56 isn't bad at all. And 2919# total isn't but ~150-200#more than stock. A turbo kit, oil cooler, etc. will quickly add up to that weight, plus it's usually way out front.

But, but, but....FA20...

[C130NAV]

I'm in the same position as you except half of my rod and some of the piston landings are sitting in my oil pan. Now I'm stuck thinking if I should shell out the $18k for WGP to do an LS swap or drop some money into getting a bulletproof FA20 Crawford also has short block options.

[boarder1995]

I've got a fully functional stock, non-FI FA20 motor currently and am even running the cost numbers on various upgrade paths.
FA20 basis:
Turbo, ~$6k, 100+# weight
Supporting mods (clutch, driveshaft, oil cooler, fans, etc) $2k?, +50-100# weight?
Exhaust, $1k (already bought this)
Built motor once stock one is windowed, ~$6k, additional weight?
Max peak power = 700hp?, very peaky, not broad power. But, it's still a boxer FA20 motor!

LSx basis:
LS2 motor, $6k?, +100#?
LSx adapter kit, trans, $8k, +100#?
It's not a FA20 boxer motor, in a BRZ/FRS it's odd sounding, perhaps even kind of boring, but it's got easily 400-700+hp, with a broad power band with gobs of torque all over the place.

[evo4g63]

These OCV issues have me on edge. I wanna see this LSX swap and how it all comes out. I was thinking about that before I went turbo. I bought a used LS2 and had it sitting at the shop for a few months. Decided to sell it off after seeing what plenty of people had done power wise on a stock FA20. Best of luck man.

[Pure Automotive]

I'll be the first guy to tell you that we're still working out bugs on the LS setup. There's a lot of smoke and mirrors out there about other LS swaps that are taking place and no one really tells you about the MASSIVE amount of small issues that ends up nickel and diming you to death. I will not stop until I get this LS swap as close to stock as possible with all functioning gauges, A/C, power steering, ABS, and maybe even eventually traction control. But I own a shop, we have unlimited resources and free labor. For the average guy, this swap is NOT plug and play, and is NOT bolt in and go, no matter what anyone tells you.

[Cross]

Oh believe me, I wont expect it to be but I'm lucky enough to have a few resources to help me go through it as I am the same way. All the gauges and Ac will work as they did from the factory. We will find a way.

What year pcm did you use?

[King Tut]

Originally Posted by Pure Automotive

I'll be the first guy to tell you that we're still working out bugs on the LS setup. There's a lot of smoke and mirrors out there about other LS swaps that are taking place and no one really tells you about the MASSIVE amount of small issues that ends up nickel and diming you to death. I will not stop until I get this LS swap as close to stock as possible with all functioning gauges, A/C, power steering, ABS, and maybe even eventually traction control. But I own a shop, we have unlimited resources and free labor. For the average guy, this swap is NOT plug and play, and is NOT bolt in and go, no matter what anyone tells you.

You mean a 2JZ or LS swap isn't all rainbows and unicorns.

[Pure Automotive]

Originally Posted by King Tut

You mean a 2JZ or LS swap isn't all rainbows and unicorns.

Exactly, despite popular belief lol

[Pure Automotive]

Originally Posted by Cross

Oh believe me, I wont expect it to be but I'm lucky enough to have a few resources to help me go through it as I am the same way. All the gauges and Ac will work as they did from the factory. We will find a way.

What year pcm did you use?

I have an 07 CTS-V ECU

[andrew20195]

Originally Posted by s2d4

Don't have first hand experience but I think Zdan was saying it LS1 was 200lbs more apparently due to being a full iron block.

Should be fun either ways.

He was referring to the LSX Bowtie block (most people just call it LSX), an "aftermarket" block available from GM Performance Parts. A lot of people like it for extreme builds in the GM world, and it's quite a bit cheaper than a billet aluminum block from Dart or something along those lines.