Swapped speaker and amp, door speakers full range

[daskaman]

Hi guys,

I ended up swapping all speakers, hu and did a mini Alpine amp (alpine ktp-445u). Door speakers are Infinity 6032CF (component)

The doors currently sound way to bright. There is a 0db and +2db switch and both ways including directing the tweeter or even blocking it, sounds way too bright and cant keep up with the rest of dash speakers (Alpine SPR-10TW tweeters and JL CZ-350x 4'')

These might be some basic questions because i'm new to this. The amp I have doesn't have a crossover for high frequencies, only low. I feel like the doors had way better punch with the original speakers in place. Is this a combination of doing preamp low on amp and adjusting base from hu?

My question is how to make this speaker only do bass as a factory set up?
Is it beneficial? Can I just cut the tweeter out to kill its high frequency?

Any ideas?

[Leonardo]

If you have upgraded your HU: You could hook the amp to the sub woofer output. Usually on the head unit you can adjust the crossover frequency. I would turn it up to the highest low pass frequency and test that first. Then I would turn the stereo up to the loudest you would listen to, then gradually turn the gain on the amp up till the speakers "match" with the ones powered by the HU.




I have six 4" speakers, four 6" speakers, and one 10"speaker. Sony CD, Power acoustic amp, lanzar 6.75 door "woofers", and a 10" fosgate. Been messing with my crossovers and gains a bunch lately...

[daskaman]

Originally Posted by Leonardo

If you have upgraded your HU: You could hook the amp to the sub woofer output. Usually on the head unit you can adjust the crossover frequency. I would turn it up to the highest low pass frequency and test that first. Then I would turn the stereo up to the loudest you would listen to, then gradually turn the gain on the amp up till the speakers "match" with the ones powered by the HU.

I will try this once I have it back together in a few days. I feel like not setting a HPF at all gives nice deep notes, but high volume there is a horrible "blat" sound so i immediately turn it down. Turn up hpf too high and it sounds like an old radio. Then comes the whole issue of crossover adjusted perfect for windows up quality sound. But windows down loud beats is too strong, or polar opposite where low volume too hollow all around

Trying to get a hang of audio balance since you can never do one without another, and now i don't know if i'm reaching my limit of needing a small sub.... yet. I know I can get the sound I want, but the fine tuning of crossover on hu, to crossover to amp and gain adjustment i find to be very time consuming and a lot of trial and error.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Is there an option in your HU to reduce speaker gains? Not sure if that will reduce the gains for the dash speakers as well though.

Also, I remember reading that you should just use one or the other (HU or amp) cross overs. Maybe disable the HU's cross overs and just utilize the amp's.

[Chimera]

Originally Posted by daskaman

Hi guys,
...
Any ideas?

Comments:

I ended up swapping all speakers, hu and did a mini Alpine amp (alpine ktp-445u). [is this being run bridged powering the doors? If it is you are pushing 90W, min ohm load of 4ohm recommended]


Door speakers are Infinity 6032CF (component)
[these are coax speakers, 93db sensitivity, max RMS rating is 60W, 2ohm, if you are running these off the ktp-445u bridged, you are overpowering them potentially and possibly also overdrawing the ktp, run this unabridged at 45W@2ohm, and get 2 extra channels, we'll talk about that later for better results]

The doors currently sound way to bright. There is a 0db and +2db switch and both ways including directing the tweeter or even blocking it, sounds way too bright and cant keep up with the rest of dash speakers (Alpine SPR-10TW tweeters and JL CZ-350x 4'')
[how do you have these wired? on factory harnesses?]

These might be some basic questions because i'm new to this. The amp I have doesn't have a crossover for high frequencies, only low. I feel like the doors had way better punch with the original speakers in place. Is this a combination of doing preamp low on amp and adjusting base from hu?

[no]

My question is how to make this speaker only do bass as a factory set up?
Is it beneficial? Can I just cut the tweeter out to kill its high frequency?

[This could be accomplished with a coil, which is effectively a first order lpf, but you would do better with a proper crossover network]




[Your issue I think comes from running multiple full range drivers off the front channel(s), which the HU has crossover and level controls for but assumes that this will be one "speaker" logically from its point of view. with as many tweeters as you have in the mix try dropping the eq on the Hu from @3k by 2db & @5k-20k by 4db straight, or as close to that as you can and give it a listen]

[Chimera]

Originally Posted by Leonardo

I have SIX 4" speakers, FOUR 6" speakers, and one 10"speaker. Sony CD, Power acoustic amp, lanzar 6.75 door "woofers", and a 10" fosgate. Been messing with my crossovers and gains a bunch lately...

where did you put them all? I want to see pictures.

[daskaman]

Originally Posted by Chimera

Comments:

Thanks for the feedback
I followed post 1 here:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42239

To make this exact set up in post 19, wire for wire:
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...t=42239&page=2

Amp is set for a 4 ohm speaker from its dip switches.

Dash speakers are factory harness and sound absolutely delicious

I'd be more helpful with information but I'm slowly learning

[daskaman]

sorry, I meant amp is set for 2 ohm*

[Chimera]

Originally Posted by daskaman

Thanks for the feedback
I followed post 1 here:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42239

To make this exact set up in post 19, wire for wire:
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...t=42239&page=2

Amp is set for a 4 ohm speaker from its dip switches.

Dash speakers are factory harness and sound absolutely delicious

I'd be more helpful with information but I'm slowly learning

can you take a photo of what you have the amp wires as, in post 19 it looks to me like he's got it unabridged. if you switched the dip switch to 2ch, then the amps trying to duplicate the signal into the other 2 channels.. but if they are not hooked up this shouldn't hurt anything.


did you try adjusting the EQ?

[daskaman]

Originally Posted by Chimera

did you try adjusting the EQ?

Finally had time to play with the car in storage. I was able to to do no crossover on HU and only 60Hz from the amp. Set for speaker level. Can't notice a difference between 2 and 4 channel. Much clearer but still sounds too bright from doors. How bad of an idea is it to try to rip out the built in tweeter?

Here are some messy pictures, sorry tries cleaning it up and just took off my bracket to take the photos.

[Chimera]

Originally Posted by daskaman

Finally had time to play with the car in storage. I was able to to do no crossover on HU and only 60Hz from the amp. Set for speaker level. Can't notice a difference between 2 and 4 channel. Much clearer but still sounds too bright from doors. How bad of an idea is it to try to rip out the built in tweeter?

Here are some messy pictures, sorry tries cleaning it up and just took off my bracket to take the photos.

Looks to me like you do not have it bridged, which means there's 2 free channels of power on that amp. I think you want dip switch #6 down for speaker level input. All of the switches look to be in the up position in the photo. Where did you end up setting the gain? when I was using one of these I actually set it to the lowest possible position on the dial when using SKPR.
as far as cutting the tweeter out, you possibly could, with some coax speakers the wire runs along the back of speaker.. but if it was me.. I would pull them and sell them on craigs list and just get a 6.5 or 6.75 woofer. I have made this suggestion in other threads before, but the Dayton audio woofers you can find on parts express are quiet good and quite affordable. also, if you get a 4ohm woofer you can bridge the ktp-445u and upgrade from 45W/door to 90W/door, which will get you a bit of a bump in midbass presence and thump.


Find someone with an 90s era Miata and convince them they want your infinity speakers.. that's what I did with my first set of infinity 6.5 coax speakers.

[daskaman]

Originally Posted by Chimera

Looks to me like you do not have it bridged, which means there's 2 free channels of power on that amp. I think you want dip switch #6 down for speaker level input. All of the switches look to be in the up position in the photo. Where did you end up setting the gain? when I was using one of these I actually set it to the lowest possible position on the dial when using SKPR.
as far as cutting the tweeter out, you possibly could, with some coax speakers the wire runs along the back of speaker.. but if it was me.. I would pull them and sell them on craigs list and just get a 6.5 or 6.75 woofer. I have made this suggestion in other threads before, but the Dayton audio woofers you can find on parts express are quiet good and quite affordable. also, if you get a 4ohm woofer you can bridge the ktp-445u and upgrade from 45W/door to 90W/door, which will get you a bit of a bump in midbass presence and thump.


Find someone with an 90s era Miata and convince them they want your infinity speakers.. that's what I did with my first set of infinity 6.5 coax speakers.

First one is actually down, just photographs terribly. I will double check with speaker vs RCA switch position. Gain is what I would say about 35%-ish of its adjustment.

Looking at this one, but Im pretty sure is too deep and would need a spacer to clear
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...4-ohm--295-198

I know actually desoldering or cutting out the tweeter is not the most ideal solution but thats what level of disappointment I was at since it was all new material for me.

Thank you for the support though!

[Chimera]

Originally Posted by daskaman

First one is actually down, just photographs terribly. I will double check with speaker vs RCA switch position. Gain is what I would say about 35%-ish of its adjustment.

Looking at this one, but Im pretty sure is too deep and would need a spacer to clear
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...4-ohm--295-198

I know actually desoldering or cutting out the tweeter is not the most ideal solution but thats what level of disappointment I was at since it was all new material for me.

Thank you for the support though!

I think @B-R-Z has the RS180 in his car,
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...4-ohm--295-374


I think to fit these you'd need to stop by a stereo shop and have them cut you out some adapter rings. In my experience they charge $20-$40 bucks for this. There's also this guys site, but idk if he's still active, I assume so though as his site's still up
http://carstereoadapters.com/

[LimitedSlip]

First, here is a link to download the manual for the Alpine amp:

http://support.alpine-usa.com/produc...45U.pdfhttp://

I think there may be a misunderstanding about how the filters work on this unit.

A "High Pass Filter" (HPF) is designed to allow all frequencies ABOVE a certain cutoff (or crossover) point to PASS THROUGH the filter.
Conversely, all frequencies BELOW the cutoff point are BLOCKED from passing through.

This amp appears to have two modes of operation:

1. Full range - The HPF is disabled and ALL frequencies (bass and treble) are amplified and passed through.

2. High Pass - Only the frequencies above the cutoff point (treble) are amplified and passed through. The frequencies below the cutoff point (bass) are BLOCKED.

If the goal is to send only the bass frequencies to the door speakers then the Alpine amplifier must have the HPF DISABLED. But, this doesn't achieve the entire goal because while the bass frequencies are now being sent to the speakers, so are the high frequencies.

If this amp is to be used for bass only, there needs to be some kind of crossover or "Low Pass Filter" ahead of it to block the high frequencies. Or, maybe this amp isn't the best choice for this application. An amp with a built in LPF or complete crossover might be a better choice.

As for disabling the tweeter, this is kind of a bad band-aid on the problem and not an actual solution. Even with the tweeter disabled, the bass speaker is still trying to produce all the frequencies being sent to it even though it's not very good at producing the higher frequencies. Best to only send the bass frequencies to a bass speaker if you want the cleanest reproduction.