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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for!


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Old 08-09-2015, 09:58 PM   #267
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I drove my car without the brake booster connected to see if that would help brake modulation ... forget it, the pedal becomes so hard it is dangerous to drive.

After a few lap at the track the skin under my feet was bruised.

You can remove the brake booster but might as well remove all 4 brake caliper, rotors, abs system and simply use the handbrake to stop, that might actually be more effective than without the brake booster
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Old 08-10-2015, 07:40 AM   #268
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Old 10-07-2015, 02:54 AM   #269
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Has anyone tried emptying or removing the the washer fluid bottle up front?

My searching indicates that the capacity of that thing is 4 gallons or so, which works out to roughly 8lbs or so of water weight sitting right on the nose of the car.

Am thinking of getting the PTuning reservoir to shave that down a bit...or I suppose I could just empty the thing.
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Old 10-07-2015, 04:57 AM   #270
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I'm a huge fan of weight savings.

I've done a basic amount of weight saving already but am curious what else I can do. There are a few key considerations I need to keep in mind though:

• I need to keep my car daily driveable and girlfriend friendly (so hardcore stripping is out)
• Cost/benefit is important. I'm willing to spend a bit but I'm not willing to waste money.
• My key interest is overall performance so I'm curious how weight reduction compares to FI/power adding. For this I decided to look at power/weight as a metric.

So I went full nerd.

First off, my currrent and possible/planned weight savings:



Second, I expanded on the power to weight charts that @hamzam did. I added a few new cars to the 'competition' list and calculated the power/weight ratio of various combinations of weight reduction. For fun, I also calculated the power/weight of adding FI, keeping cost in mind. Note: everything is crank hp.

Power to weight ratios of the 'competition' (note: added the TRD Griffon - interesting!)



What I found was interesting:

• Significant power/weight improvements from targeted weight reduction are possible without spending ridiculous amounts of money.
• Beyond a certain point major weight reduction gets expensive and the cost/benefit goes south fast. Still, if cost is no object and/or you do go extreme then weight savings CAN be a killer mod - just check out the TRD Griffon stats.
• For a typical street driven FRS/BRZ/GT86 it seems that going FI influences the power/weight ratio more per dollar than extreme weight reduction. Power alone, however, doesn't tell the full story because a lighter car will almost always handle better.
• For a typical street driven FRS/BRZ/GT86 it seems that if cost was no object then you could go pretty far in terms of improving this platform from a power and weight perspective...but even so there will be a certain limit/tipping point somewhere along the line in terms of cost/benefit versus just buying a faster car (I'll let you decide where the tipping point is).

Note: I did try to source accurate info from various sources. I'm pretty sure that my math is technically correct but I'm no stats genius and I'm well aware that I'm missing out certain key factors, including additional installation/tuning costs etc. So please relax and take these with a grain of salt.

If folks want to play around a bit then the raw excel sheet can be downloaded here:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...20savings.xlsx
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Last edited by ultra; 10-07-2015 at 03:13 PM.
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Old 10-07-2015, 02:12 PM   #271
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Look at my build thread, post number two. I don't think the reservoir is 4 gallons.
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Old 10-07-2015, 02:55 PM   #272
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Look at my build thread, post number two. I don't think the reservoir is 4 gallons.
Will do. Do you have an estimate for the capacity? Looks like nice weight to shave off ahead of the front axle.

Edit: your stats (simple ballpark calc) are looking pretty impressive, @Anthony

Anthony's FRS/BRZ
HP 210
LBS 2430.923
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Old 10-07-2015, 05:28 PM   #273
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Will do. Do you have an estimate for the capacity? Looks like nice weight to shave off ahead of the front axle.

Edit: your stats (simple ballpark calc) are looking pretty impressive, @Anthony

Anthony's FRS/BRZ
HP 210
LBS 2430.923
Ratio 11.6
I was on my phone earlier, which is why I told you to just look. But now I'm on a computer and can type easier. Here is the photo of the thing from the link out of post #2 on my thread:



Just looking at that, I'd guess just a bit over a gallon?

Where'd you get 210hp from? I've never dynoed my car, but I always assume it's probably at around 170whp.
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Old 10-07-2015, 06:33 PM   #274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony View Post
I was on my phone earlier, which is why I told you to just look. But now I'm on a computer and can type easier. Here is the photo of the thing from the link out of post #2 on my thread:



Just looking at that, I'd guess just a bit over a gallon?

Where'd you get 210hp from? I've never dynoed my car, but I always assume it's probably at around 170whp.
he's probably estimating at the crank, because the exhaust mods you've added have to have a positive effect, and all his other estimates were at the crank as well.
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Old 10-08-2015, 04:26 AM   #275
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Originally Posted by Anthony View Post
I was on my phone earlier, which is why I told you to just look. But now I'm on a computer and can type easier. Here is the photo of the thing from the link out of post #2 on my thread:



Just looking at that, I'd guess just a bit over a gallon?

Where'd you get 210hp from? I've never dynoed my car, but I always assume it's probably at around 170whp.
Since everything's in crank hp I gave you 210hp at the crank based on your super sick exhaust. If there's better data I'd stick it in.

If we go with one gallon of fluid in the washer reservoir that seems to work out to 8.14 lbs of fluid or so.
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Old 10-08-2015, 03:46 PM   #276
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Yeah, I figured that was crank hp. I guess I was mostly curious about how in-depth you went on the calculation.

Next time I come across it, I'll measure the volume. I just saw it a few weeks ago too. Dang it.
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Old 10-08-2015, 06:51 PM   #277
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3 pound battery....damn! Need to have
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Old 11-12-2015, 02:49 PM   #278
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heres one nobody seems to have thought of. what about ditching those cast iron hub carriers for aluminum ones. it would have to be custom since noone seems to make them but i was thinking of hopping on solid works tonight and sarting to design a set. aluminum should be more than strong enough for that job. my cobalt has aluminum hub carriers in the front and they have never been an issue despite years of racing and some very harsh potholes.

my thinking is that switching those big hunks of cast iron to aluminum would save a substantial amount of weight. if somone could weigh a set of hub cariers front and back would be great. i could calculate the weight saving from going to aluminum based on that
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Old 11-12-2015, 03:09 PM   #279
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Quote:
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heres one nobody seems to have thought of. what about ditching those cast iron hub carriers for aluminum ones. it would have to be custom since noone seems to make them but i was thinking of hopping on solid works tonight and sarting to design a set. aluminum should be more than strong enough for that job. my cobalt has aluminum hub carriers in the front and they have never been an issue despite years of racing and some very harsh potholes.

my thinking is that switching those big hunks of cast iron to aluminum would save a substantial amount of weight. if somone could weigh a set of hub cariers front and back would be great. i could calculate the weight saving from going to aluminum based on that
I guess it will come at some point. You can even include the ride height lowering in the hub to maintain stock geometry.

That's some expensive parts anyway. Like 2k for all four corners.

edit : the Lotus version :


https://www.eliseparts.com/products/...-s2-rear-pair/
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Old 11-12-2015, 03:59 PM   #280
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heres one nobody seems to have thought of. what about ditching those cast iron hub carriers for aluminum ones. it would have to be custom since noone seems to make them but i was thinking of hopping on solid works tonight and sarting to design a set. aluminum should be more than strong enough for that job. my cobalt has aluminum hub carriers in the front and they have never been an issue despite years of racing and some very harsh potholes.

my thinking is that switching those big hunks of cast iron to aluminum would save a substantial amount of weight. if somone could weigh a set of hub cariers front and back would be great. i could calculate the weight saving from going to aluminum based on that
Definitely lots of opportunities for weight loss for a no-expense spared type of build with all the stamp steel bits around the car, control arms would be another opportunity, both front and rear.

The NSX control arms still blow my mind looking at them:






Keeping my fingers crossed for Titanium 3D printing to come together and be available to a 'pro-sumer' in 5-10 years, potentially a big win on the uprights in terms of weight savings, however at that point you may be able to buy a used 86 for the amount of money someone would charge for a pre-engineered solution.
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