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09-21-2017, 09:53 PM | #15 | |
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Is it showing now? 1.) agree 2.) well given the 3 wheelsets I have no choice but to use the rotas for track and stick with either a 235 square or staggered set up later on. 3.) i'm not sure I understand that since it seems to me it just means I couldn't step as much on the accelerator as I want to on the exits which in our track are mostly hairpins. With regards to the brakes, that's incorrect. I never used the stock ones and already had it modified before track use so I was not braking as slow as you may have imagined. 4.) Yes I had to somewhat compromise. I'm afraid I added another failure part that could potentially cause oil leak in the future from a broken hose or broken oil cooler radiator or something. But no choice since track temps on the engine oil are too hot. I do agree with the instructor and perhaps I don't need to rush yet on the thicker rear tires until I get more track time and experience. BUT, the front of the car was too soft on track. lateral forces was more than enough to get the car's outer front to rub the tires consistently. I felt bad for the car. Hence, I may be forced to get the coilovers soon. |
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09-21-2017, 11:03 PM | #16 |
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Sounds like you're on the right track with your build. If I were you, I'd get camber adjustment for the front (to stop the front shoulders from wearing so much) and an oil cooler if your oil temps are hot (likely the case in Manila). After that spend your money on seat time (fun time) at the track!
Also one other thing. You'll probably get to the point where PMU HC+800 pads start wearing down quickly at the track. I had that issue and switched to Carbotech XP10 pads and loved them. Might be something to consider if you run into that issue.
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09-22-2017, 09:33 AM | #17 | |
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I did order a mishimoto non thermostatic (since we're a tropical country) oil cooler. I also ordered Whiteline kdt926 gearbox bushing and perrin rear shifter bushings. Any experience with them? Is the NVH tolerable and I hope they don't shorten the lifespan of the power train in real world experience? |
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09-22-2017, 04:09 PM | #18 | |
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I thought from your post you hadn't upgraded the brakes yet, so my bad. My point on the oversteer is that if you are doing it all the time then you are simply getting on the gas too early. That's an experience thing. This car definitely needs more camber up front, so another good addition is a set of camber bolts up front to max out the camber. After that you either need camber plates or coilovers. |
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09-23-2017, 08:47 AM | #19 |
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I'm just going to add that a staggered wheel setup is probably the single most wasteful and idiotic thing that can be done to these cars. You raise the price of your equipment and eliminate your ability to rotate front and back, and what do you get in return? A vehicle that will push (understeer) more in the corners and more rotating mass to get moving. Unless you are going to re-valve your shocks and adjust your spring rates accordingly, that stuff has no business on a race track, or a car designed for a square setup.
Last edited by Yardjass; 09-23-2017 at 05:18 PM. |
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09-23-2017, 09:10 PM | #20 | |
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No experience on the whiteline and perrin bushings you mentioned, but if you search the forum I'm sure someone has reviewed them.
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09-24-2017, 12:34 AM | #21 | |
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Adding camber will improve front grip and improve tire life on track by reducing outer shoulder wear. Stiffening the front will help a bit, but that's not the real problem. This may increase oversteer based on your current driving habits but it's hard to say without being able to see. Project Mu HC800 pads are not track pads, if you are not overheating them yet then there is more time to be gained in the braking zones (unless your local course is slow for a racetrack). The XP12's will stand up to much more abuse, but they will not make you faster, they will only withstand heat better and more predictably. Use up the Project Mu first and as mentioned by @DarkSunrise the XP12 pads are not going to be very street friendly so you may want to consider having a street pad and a track pad. I had XP10's for my third track day and they were great and are supposed to be a bit more mild than the XP12's but I still could not daily drive them. But, it's all about having fun, so do whatever seems fun to you Last edited by strat61caster; 09-24-2017 at 12:45 AM. |
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09-24-2017, 04:27 AM | #22 | |
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The best upgrades you can make (apart from the driver ) are high performance tires (personally I would change also the rims to some better looking) and a set of high quality coilovers. All the other changes (e.g., bushings, bars, bigger bolts etc.) will provide just a refinement of the existing product. And on power upgrades ... stay away from tunes! They manage mainly to make a bit better the torque dip, but they don't understand that the dip was created from the factory on purpose. If you drive the car the way it was intented to be driven, you'll not have any serious issue with the dip. A tune makes sense ONLY if you make considerable changes to your engine. |
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10-09-2017, 10:40 AM | #23 | |
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With regards to app, do you have any recommendations for the 86 that can include the oil temperature reading? I paid for Racechrono but it did not have the oil temperature reading function for the 86 and the guys from racechrono confirmed it isn't available in their app. |
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