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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.


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Old 05-12-2014, 02:31 AM   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpit View Post
Was driving into town today and the BRZ just died. Tried to restart it several times but it after a second it would just shut off but didn't throw a code. Besides this problem it was towed to the dealer with the electric supercharger still attached among other modifications - should prove interesting.
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Good luck ! Mines screwed up too. Dies after wot pull. Worked great for the first two days
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Mine did the same thing a long time ago because I didn't tighten everything properly.


10 days now and no resolution? Have you tried "tightening everything properly" as recommended by the Phantom's #1 salesman?
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Old 05-12-2014, 03:00 AM   #128
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Thanks Freddy for your insightful and thoughtful comments. Car is still not running and I have run out of ideas. I've removed the ESC and put most everything back to stock. I'm sure it has nothing to do with the ESC. It seems to be a fuel delivery problem but the fuel pump seems to be OK and I don't have the tools to delve deeper into the matter. Probably will have to take it back to the dealer.
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Old 05-12-2014, 03:49 AM   #129
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Thanks Freddy for your insightful and thoughtful comments. Car is still not running and I have run out of ideas. I've removed the ESC and put most everything back to stock. I'm sure it has nothing to do with the ESC. It seems to be a fuel delivery problem but the fuel pump seems to be OK and I don't have the tools to delve deeper into the matter. Probably will have to take it back to the dealer.
Did you put the stock battery back at the stock location with the stock terminal connectors, basically returning wiring to completely stock?

I asked this a few days back, then @Sojhinn asked a couple of days ago as well, you never replied to either.
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Old 05-12-2014, 07:26 AM   #130
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Originally Posted by jpit View Post
Thanks Freddy for your insightful and thoughtful comments. Car is still not running and I have run out of ideas. I've removed the ESC and put most everything back to stock. I'm sure it has nothing to do with the ESC. It seems to be a fuel delivery problem but the fuel pump seems to be OK and I don't have the tools to delve deeper into the matter. Probably will have to take it back to the dealer.

If your in a clean enviroment open air box remove filter spray a bit of engine start or petrol in atomiser spray bottle into intake while someone cranks car if it kicks and fires it is probably fuel problem if its still dead it likely ignition spark.

Re check the easy stuff batt volts under cranking load, fuses then just bite the bullet and take it to another dealer now its back to stock.

Hopefully privacy laws will stop them sharing info :-):-)
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Old 05-12-2014, 09:50 AM   #131
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i already feel op's frustration.. i hope it's simple problem
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Old 05-12-2014, 10:55 AM   #132
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Everything is back to stock including the battery location.
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Old 05-12-2014, 11:12 AM   #133
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Sorry but you need to try the old basic troubleshooting steps:
1 - Does it have spark?
Pull a plug wire (coil pack) and stick a spare spark plug in it.
Lay the plug on a metal surface so it touches (grounds).
Crank the engine and have someone watch for spark.

2 - Does it have Fuel
Either try the starting fluid trick ( a tiny spray) and see if it kicks.
If it does not, dont keep spraying
Or you can connect what is known as a "noid light" to one of the injector connectors and see if if blinks when cranking ( I think these cars use the DI injectors to start - you need to know which injector to check). You can usually borrow one at a FLAPS.

You never answered my questions about your log above.
It could be something as simple as the clutch engagement switch (if stick) or neutral/park lockout (if auto).

Please tell us exactly what is happening now.
Cranks & sputters, but no run?
No crank? Crank but no sputter, etc?
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Old 05-12-2014, 11:15 AM   #134
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Cranks and sputters. Doesn't run for more than two seconds.
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Old 05-12-2014, 01:02 PM   #135
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Cranks and sputters. Doesn't run for more than two seconds.
In that case, you can see if it keeps running by feeding it some starting fluid slowly.

If it does keep running, then you have found your problem: Fuel supply.
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Old 05-12-2014, 01:21 PM   #136
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Big Problem

Chances are slim but try blowing out your filter. I doubt it's clogged but worth a shot.
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Old 05-12-2014, 03:17 PM   #137
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What stugray suggested are great starting points. Fuel, ignition and oxygen is the basic needs of an engine, I think it's at least worth a try before taking it back to the dealer.

Hope out all works out for you.
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Old 05-12-2014, 05:14 PM   #138
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What stugray suggested are great starting points. Fuel, ignition and oxygen is the basic needs of an engine, I think it's at least worth a try before taking it back to the dealer.

Hope out all works out for you.
agreed, If it runs for up to 2 seconds you are getting spark(unless the ecu is cutting it). I would have to lean tward fuel(or ecu control of fuel). did you ever run e85? try the starting fluid or take it to a new dealer and cross your fingers.
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Old 05-12-2014, 07:00 PM   #139
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Also, from that freezeframe data it looks like it was taken at the very end of an attempt to start the car, the battery voltage reads ~5 volts and only ~8 when the starter relay goes off. It almost looks like a bunk battery, pretty sure you are looking for 10+ volts even while cranking

The battery current is also weird, -7 amps? I would think the starter would draw a lot more than that

Have you tried a brand new battery?
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Old 05-12-2014, 07:21 PM   #140
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Also, from that freezeframe data it looks like it was taken at the very end of an attempt to start the car, the battery voltage reads ~5 volts and only ~8 when the starter relay goes off. It almost looks like a bunk battery, pretty sure you are looking for 10+ volts even while cranking

The battery current is also weird, -7 amps? I would think the starter would draw a lot more than that

Have you tried a brand new battery?

But it shouldn't crank over and start at all right?
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