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Old 02-23-2015, 10:31 PM   #1
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Switched DRL Strip(Monogram/GT86 Headlights) With Pictures

Intro: One of the main reasons I purchased my Monogram FR-S was because of the headlights. I loved how aggressive the LED strip looked, almost like angry eyebrows. My only complaint was that they could not be on at the same time as the projectors. Well with this DIY you can change that!

Purpose: To be able to have the DRL LED strip illuminated at the same time as your low beam/high beam projectors.

Overview: Install a switched ground on the DRL wire running into the BCM. The BCM acts as a ground for when the DRL's should come on, so if you install a ground before the BCM you will be able to switch the LED strip on and off.

Supplies Required:
1) A button/switch(12V)
2) As much wire(between 16 and 22 gauge) as you need to have your switch mounted where you would like
3) A diode
4) Grounding ring terminal

Time Required: +/= 45 minutes

Tools Required:
1) Phillips Head Screwdriver
2) Soldering Iron/solder
3) Wire strippers/cutters
4) Whatever tools you need to mount the switch of your choice
5) Wire crimpers

Directions:
1) First step is to remove the panel under the steering wheel which houses the trunk, headlight aiming, interior light dimmer and, in my case, the fog light switch. Do this by removing the trim panel covering the fuses by the driver door, and remove the screw revealed under this panel. There is also a screw under the panel near the center console which will need to be removed as well. Once the 2 screws are removed pull back on the panel and release the clips holding it in place. Disconnect any electrical connections and set panel aside.

2) Locate the BCM now that the panel is removed. It is located near the driver door.(See picture)



3) Locate and remove the BCM connector which houses the DRL wire. The orange wire is the DRL ground wire and is the wire we will be modifying. (See picture)





4) Remove some insulation and electrical tape to gain more access to the orange wire as necessary. Cut the wire half way to make soldering easy as possible. Strip away wire insulation as much as you need and expose the bare wire.

5) Prepare the wire you will be connecting to the POWER side of the switch, known as the power wire from here on. Strip some insulation and expose the bare wire.



6) Solder the positive side of the diode, the power wire and the vehicle side of the orange DRL BCM wire together. The diode will not allow ground ground to go into the BCM, protecting from possible codes as well as giving electricity only one path. Also solder the negative side of the diode to the connector side of the BCM DRL wire. (See diagram)





7) Prepare your wire which will connect to the GROUND side of the switch(ground wire). Attatch one side to the grounding ring terminal, and the other side will attatch to the switch. I used crimping terminals to attatch the wires to my button switch. Remove the screw near the steering wheel(See picture in step 2) and connect the grounding ring.

8) Cover your soldering connections with shrink wrap or electrical tape and connect the BCM connector back into the BCM. Connect your wires to the switch. Start your car and give it a test! If all works you should be able to turn your DRL LED's on and off as you wish, even when the projectors are on!

9) Mount your switch however and wherever you want, and reinstall the panel. You're all done!

NOTE) My button had an LED prong, which not all will have and is unneccessary if you do not want. I tapped into the switch wire from the Spyder foglights to power the LED.

Final Result:

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Old 03-07-2015, 07:51 PM   #2
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Garage
@projek_01 was previously selling a relay for this, but the thread seems to have disappeared. I believe his item is now being sold directly through FT86SpeedFactory.com

Missing thread:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44066
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Old 03-21-2015, 05:00 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TB View Post
Intro: One of the main reasons I purchased my Monogram FR-S was because of the headlights. I loved how aggressive the LED strip looked, almost like angry eyebrows. My only complaint was that they could not be on at the same time as the projectors. Well with this DIY you can change that!

Purpose: To be able to have the DRL LED strip illuminated at the same time as your low beam/high beam projectors.

Overview: Install a switched ground on the DRL wire running into the BCM. The BCM acts as a ground for when the DRL's should come on, so if you install a ground before the BCM you will be able to switch the LED strip on and off.

Supplies Required:
1) A button/switch(12V)
2) As much wire(between 16 and 22 gauge) as you need to have your switch mounted where you would like
3) A diode
4) Grounding ring terminal

Time Required: +/= 45 minutes

Tools Required:
1) Phillips Head Screwdriver
2) Soldering Iron/solder
3) Wire strippers/cutters
4) Whatever tools you need to mount the switch of your choice
5) Wire crimpers

Directions:
1) First step is to remove the panel under the steering wheel which houses the trunk, headlight aiming, interior light dimmer and, in my case, the fog light switch. Do this by removing the trim panel covering the fuses by the driver door, and remove the screw revealed under this panel. There is also a screw under the panel near the center console which will need to be removed as well. Once the 2 screws are removed pull back on the panel and release the clips holding it in place. Disconnect any electrical connections and set panel aside.

2) Locate the BCM now that the panel is removed. It is located near the driver door.(See picture)



3) Locate and remove the BCM connector which houses the DRL wire. The orange wire is the DRL ground wire and is the wire we will be modifying. (See picture)





4) Remove some insulation and electrical tape to gain more access to the orange wire as necessary. Cut the wire half way to make soldering easy as possible. Strip away wire insulation as much as you need and expose the bare wire.

5) Prepare the wire you will be connecting to the POWER side of the switch, known as the power wire from here on. Strip some insulation and expose the bare wire.



6) Solder the positive side of the diode, the power wire and the vehicle side of the orange DRL BCM wire together. The diode will not allow ground ground to go into the BCM, protecting from possible codes as well as giving electricity only one path. Also solder the negative side of the diode to the connector side of the BCM DRL wire. (See diagram)





7) Prepare your wire which will connect to the GROUND side of the switch(ground wire). Attatch one side to the grounding ring terminal, and the other side will attatch to the switch. I used crimping terminals to attatch the wires to my button switch. Remove the screw near the steering wheel(See picture in step 2) and connect the grounding ring.

8) Cover your soldering connections with shrink wrap or electrical tape and connect the BCM connector back into the BCM. Connect your wires to the switch. Start your car and give it a test! If all works you should be able to turn your DRL LED's on and off as you wish, even when the projectors are on!

9) Mount your switch however and wherever you want, and reinstall the panel. You're all done!

NOTE) My button had an LED prong, which not all will have and is unneccessary if you do not want. I tapped into the switch wire from the Spyder foglights to power the LED.

Final Result:

What type of diode did you use? Ive searched but there are many different types (3 amp, 3A barrel, 3 amp barrel, etc)? The only place I can think of to buy would be radioshack but can you be specific on what type?
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Old 03-21-2015, 08:19 PM   #4
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Great write up, but seems like a lot of work for a switch you are always going to have it on anyway. I just went with diode relay between the two wires.

Out of curiosity what does finished switch (panel) look like?
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Old 03-21-2015, 08:22 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by FiRStsc10n View Post
Great write up, but seems like a lot of work for a switch you are always going to have it on anyway. I just went with diode relay between the two wires.

Out of curiosity what does finished switch (panel) look like?
Can you explain how you made your DRL work? And parts used? I am wanting to do the same thing with my momogram
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Old 03-23-2015, 01:50 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leoh007 View Post
What type of diode did you use? Ive searched but there are many different types (3 amp, 3A barrel, 3 amp barrel, etc)? The only place I can think of to buy would be radioshack but can you be specific on what type?
I used a 3Amp diode!
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Old 03-23-2015, 02:23 PM   #7
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Did you just tap into the existing 12v switch that you had for your fogs? reason I ask is because my car came with the dealer added LED fogs, and it is currently working with the same 12v switch that you mentioned
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Old 03-23-2015, 02:24 PM   #8
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I used a 3Amp diode!
.
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Old 04-05-2015, 03:01 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FiRStsc10n View Post
Great write up, but seems like a lot of work for a switch you are always going to have it on anyway. I just went with diode relay between the two wires.

Out of curiosity what does finished switch (panel) look like?
Did you just added the diode between the drl wire? I'm just confused where he is adding the ground or even his explanation for the ground... Is it so he can have access to switch the drl on and off?
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Old 04-05-2015, 03:07 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by leoh007 View Post
What type of diode did you use? Ive searched but there are many different types (3 amp, 3A barrel, 3 amp barrel, etc)? The only place I can think of to buy would be radioshack but can you be specific on what type?
Did you have to quote the entire post?
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Old 04-05-2015, 01:20 PM   #11
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Did you have to quote the entire post?
Did you really just take time out of your day to respond to this post? Need to find something else to fill your day bud.
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Old 04-05-2015, 09:14 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paiser View Post
Did you just added the diode between the drl wire? I'm just confused where he is adding the ground or even his explanation for the ground... Is it so he can have access to switch the drl on and off?
Just a diode between 2 wires. This keeps it on at reduced brightness when headlights turned on. No switch.
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