How do I run my heater lines?

[ILLSMOQ]

Originally Posted by spitsnaugle

The AN fitting route is very solid/proper, and way easier than pulling a dash. I'm now back tracking and going that route instead of my fix. Thanks for the suggestion ILLSMOQ

Once you have the AN/hardline adapter in place, have fun finding hose ends to attach to them that will fit behind the intake lol.

I ended up using these and but still had to bend them to fit right. Routed the hose down the trans tunnel a little way then comes back to the front.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-613280/overview/

[spitsnaugle]

Originally Posted by ILLSMOQ

Once you have the AN/hardline adapter in place, have fun finding hose ends to attach to them that will fit behind the intake lol.

I ended up using these and but still had to bend them to fit right. Routed the hose down the trans tunnel a little way then comes back to the front.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-613280/overview/

I plan to cap mine for now (planning for use in future) Im running an electric water pump and havent planned for heat.

Was thinking this super tight 90* would work Vibrant Performance # 21990

[spitsnaugle]

Originally Posted by spitsnaugle

I plan to cap mine for now (planning for use in future) Im running an electric water pump and havent planned for heat.

Was thinking this super tight 90* would work Vibrant Performance # 21990

Edit: after dropping the car onto the engine again for a test fit, the AN fittings or hose any hose there wont work, not enough room with my FAST intake.

So I have some spare 5/8 to 10an fittings and caps now.

[ILLSMOQ]

I have a fast 102 on mine

[ILLSMOQ]

Hardline fittings on as far as they will go.

Tried this and it didn’t work


Got the larger fittings, heated them up and bent them to fit. Also had to tweak the heater core tubes a bit after the fittings were on to have good clearance all around.


Ugly but they work and the heater works great. Painted them black afterwards.

[spitsnaugle]

Originally Posted by ILLSMOQ

Ugly but they work and the heater works great. Painted them black afterwards.

Your FAST102 must have a different layout at the rear than my older FAST92, I'm directly in contact with the intake at 1"

[gtpvette]

Dam that's tight. Here's a pic of the evaporator if you hadn't seen it already. Reworking the lines to a different location shouldn't be too bad if you decide to go that way.

[Clash0901]

Just to update everyone, I pulled the engine and trans back out yesterday. I decided removing the 4 bolts that hold them in and taking 10 minutes to pull the engine is much easier than pulling the dash. I will be crimping the 5/8" aluminum hoses for a bead and just using normal heater lines after all.

Will update with pics once i'm done

[Clash0901]

Originally Posted by Clash0901

Just to update everyone, I pulled the engine and trans back out yesterday. I decided removing the 4 bolts that hold them in and taking 10 minutes to pull the engine is much easier than pulling the dash. I will be crimping the 5/8" aluminum hoses for a bead and just using normal heater lines after all.

Will update with pics once i'm done

Well this was a dud. I put a bead on the pipes with a home made tool, picked out some really nice and tight hoses, put the engine in and the hoses are pinched and rubbing on the head of the car.

SOOO! I have one final idea before i'm forced to remove the heater core. I am going to try to braze/solder this copper 90* fitting to the pipes and if I can successfully do that, I will have the room I need.

[venturaII]

Originally Posted by Clash0901

SOOO! I have one final idea before i'm forced to remove the heater core. I am going to try to braze/solder this copper 90* fitting to the pipes and if I can successfully do that, I will have the room I need.

Look into the prep work needed to make copper/aluminum soldered joints; you'll need the right tinning flux and solder to do it, and still be able to trust the joint.

[Clash0901]

Originally Posted by venturaII

Look into the prep work needed to make copper/aluminum soldered joints; you'll need the right tinning flux and solder to do it, and still be able to trust the joint.

I have the uniweld uni 4300 kit on order. And I have watched a few youtube videos, it doesn't seem too hard, I just have to make sure I prep it right and also that the pipe is a snug fit the the copper 90*.

Pray for me lmao

EDIT: If brazing/solder doesn't work, I may actually just JB weld these copper 90* fittings onto the pipes. Why? Because I know for a fact it will work without issues. Let's just say i've done sketchier things with more crucial engine components and JB weld. But I hope it doesn't come to that.

[venturaII]

Originally Posted by Clash0901

I have the uniweld uni 4300 kit on order. And I have watched a few youtube videos, it doesn't seem too hard, I just have to make sure I prep it right and also that the pipe is a snug fit the the copper 90*.

Pray for me lmao

EDIT: If brazing/solder doesn't work, I may actually just JB weld these copper 90* fittings onto the pipes. Why? Because I know for a fact it will work without issues. Let's just say i've done sketchier things with more crucial engine components and JB weld. But I hope it doesn't come to that.

LOL - JBWeld is some pretty damn impressive stuff. I patched a cracked outside water jacket in a cast iron head, fully expecting it to fail almost immediately, and it was still in place when I sold the car 4+ years later..like most things, it's about the prep work.

[Clash0901]

Originally Posted by venturaII

LOL - JBWeld is some pretty damn impressive stuff. I patched a cracked outside water jacket in a cast iron head, fully expecting it to fail almost immediately, and it was still in place when I sold the car 4+ years later..like most things, it's about the prep work.

Yea I had a hole in a water pump housing (on the block, not removable/replaceable) and I jb welded it, held up for a year and 15k miles, then we sold the car. Prep work is key, absolutely. Especially with porous aluminum.

[Clash0901]

So apparently the 2 pipes coming off of the firewall are some weird size because they are larger than 5/8". My 5/8" copper 90* fittings wouldn't fit, not even close. So I am sanding the pipe outer diameter and the copper fitting inner diameter to get a snug fit. I tapered the 90* fitting. I don't recommend anybody doing this, it's annoying difficult and most likely I will be posting back here with my failures.

If this does fail, the heater core is coming out