Roll bar for FRS/BRZ

[D K]

^^^^^^

That!

Scary

[celica73]

Originally Posted by JRP

And if you look at pic #5, the bar on the drivers side coming up from the trunk area is not even fully welded to the main hoop. It's straight cut and should be notched for a more complete weld. I don't think this bar would pass for anything but a "show bar".

While I'm less enthusiastic about this bar than I was initially, I will defend it here. I'm pretty sure that is a heavy shadow you see, not a funky cut end. Pic 19 appears to show the backside and it's fully welded. They also used proper tubing notches elsewhere, so they clearly have the tools for the job.

[maj75]

Originally Posted by JRP

And if you look at pic #5, the bar on the drivers side coming up from the trunk area is not even fully welded to the main hoop. It's straight cut and should be notched for a more complete weld. I don't think this bar would pass for anything but a "show bar".

You really should be careful in the statements you make. You happen to be 100% wrong. All joints are properly notched and welded. What you see in pic 5 is a shadow. Take a minute to look at every visible weld, they are all done properly.

[maj75]

I'm selling my bar for $750 which includes the cut side plastic panels. They are $120each from Scion. That way you can keep your side panels.

[JRP]

Originally Posted by maj75

You really should be careful in the statements you make. You happen to be 100% wrong. All joints are properly notched and welded. What you see in pic 5 is a shadow. Take a minute to look at every visible weld, they are all done properly.

After careful examination of pic 5 and 19, I stand corrected. I retract my statement.

[Element Tuning]

A true bolt in roll bar is tough in the FRS/BRZ because the sheet metal is so thin and there aren't many places for backing plates. I have some serious concerns with how the front of the OPs roll hoop is mounted since its on top of the gas tank sheet metal (appears that way) and its so thin.

The Autopower mounts on that frame rail that's behind the seats. The problem was that it's double wall sheet metal so no way to install a backing plate. I drilled and tapped it to secure the hoop to the frame rail but I was so concerned I wouldn't even consider mounting my harnesses to the bar so I ran my factory 3 point. In a serious crash there is so much force required to hold the driver in you just can't take any chances.

So with the Autopower the rollover protection is decent since the main hoop sits on the strongest part. For this season I welded a plate to this frame rail to the top, front, and floor (think "Z" shape) plus welded a backing nut. Now I feel decently comfortable the hoop is secure for harnesses and roll over protection.

I will feel much better when we have a custom front section added.

[maj75]

I wish people would stop posting incorrect information based on their assumptions...

The hoops for the main bar actually mount outside of the fuel tank area, to the floor area. There are backing plates for the mounts.

[Element Tuning]

Then do a better job posting correct information. All the sheet metal is thin above the gas tank across the entire floor was my point.

[suaveflooder]

Originally Posted by maj75

I wish people would stop posting incorrect information based on their assumptions...

The hoops for the main bar actually mount outside of the fuel tank area, to the floor area. There are backing plates for the mounts.

I was thinking the same thing! Why when ANY new product is produced people have to come in and try and rip it apart. Good grief! If you don't like how it looks/functions/protects, I have GREAT NEWS!! DON'T BUY IT!

[AZP Installs]

Originally Posted by suaveflooder

I was thinking the same thing! Why when ANY new product is produced people have to come in and try and rip it apart. Good grief! If you don't like how it looks/functions/protects, I have GREAT NEWS!! DON'T BUY IT!

Because this is a safety thing. I know most of the folks who are posting in here and ripping into this bar. They are all very passionate about racing, tracking and otherwise driving on track. If someone kills themselves using this or any other piece of safety equipment on track, it is a reflection on our hobby/sport and for some folks their livelihood! That makes it harder to enjoy our hobby due to higher insurance premiums, etc.

-Mike Paisan


Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.
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"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

[Element Tuning]

I would say people are far from ripping it apart, just showing some concerns. Unless you have stripped your chassis, examined the flooring, measured sheet metal strength, and have installed your own roll bar as I have, I suggest hearing me out above all others.

Even to secure my harness for the anti-submarine belts a backing plate wasn't nearly enough. A backing plate attached to tin foil doesn't help! I welded a plate/strap from the outer rail to the inner to ensure it wouldn't pull through the floor.

Anyways just take mounting points of your bar and your harness very seriously in this car. Unless you've gone into the Armco Barrier at 140 mph like I have you have no idea the strength required to hold a 200 lbs man safely in his harness.

[Lonewolf]

Aside from any potential weak points it is still good to see things like this being developed...because with time and demand will come better products...

[maj75]

Originally Posted by Element Tuning

Unless you've gone into the Armco Barrier at 140 mph like I have you have no idea the strength required to hold a 200 lbs man safely in his harness.

That would be outside the realm of possibility for most people tracking their FRS at your basic HPDE. Any FRS that can SEE 140 on track should have a full cage, race seats, 6 pt harness and a HANS device.

I've tracked my stock FRS at Sebring and don't see north of 115 mph. Now actually hitting a wall with an actual impact force of 115 mph would be almost impossible unless your throttle stuck, you didn't turn the car off and drove straight into the wall outside turn 1. Any other scenario, braking, turning, wall less than perpendicular, gets you way less than a 115 mph impact.

Agreed that mounting a harness with only a bolt through the floor is a bad idea. However a bolt in rollbar is not a roll cage. If that's what you need, go for it and the more bars and braces the merrier. A bolt in rollbar with 12 bolts and backing plates will more than do the job of supporting your 2 shoulder harness mounting points. The backing plates are marginally important with respect to keeping the roof from crushing down. I've seen pictures of the Harddog rollbars in roll overs that performed well. IMHO they. are far less substantial that this one and a Miata is lacking its own roof support. (No criticism of the HD bars, I installed two of them in my Miata)

I'm taking the rollbar out next week as I don't track this car any more. I'll try to get pictures of the mounting when it is out.

[Element Tuning]

The back seat is so worthless is there a reason you're removing it? Seems like at least one side benefit would be chassis stiffness. Then again maybe just too much weight for a street car without a ton of grip or stiff suspension.

When my FRS was NA I don't think I hit more than about 112 mph on the back straight at Road Atlanta which is like a mile long. LOL!