Has any FRS/BRZ fallen to LS V8 engine swap?

[SomeoneWhoIsntMe]

Originally Posted by mid_life_crisis

Without a view of the gauges, all I saw was a bouncy, noisy car.

[mid_life_crisis]

Originally Posted by SomeoneWhoIsntMe

.

There is nothing about that video that gives any sensation of an improvement in any capacity. Without knowing that it was a V8 swap, it was just another loud car.

Originally Posted by AtlasMick

The view you do get of the gauges shows them not working.

The angle was such that I didn't really pay attention. Thank you (sincerely) for pointing that out.

[ftc~brz]

Originally Posted by mid_life_crisis

There is nothing about that video that gives any sensation of an improvement in any capacity. Without knowing that it was a V8 swap, it was just another loud car.

The angle was such that I didn't really pay attention. Thank you (sincerely) for pointing that out.

should I be surprised the forum lacks members capable of google searching?

The car belongs to Brady @ Pure Automotive Performance in Maryland.

http://instagram.com/p/snaF2PjIuz/?modal=true



0 fucks given about what trolls think

[PowderfaceTr.]

shows what a great car this is when you have all tose maerican muscle fanboys buying subru. Sure to win the girls when thy notice your sporty car is more sporty only with the hood up. how is that a practical place to mount it? id rather see it behind the driver

[Suprastar]

Originally Posted by Accurate Race Shop

Right now everyone is using new engines for the swap in time once these cars get a little older they will start using a rebuilt one and the price will drop dramatically.

Sent from my Q10

That's one of the better aspects of the LSx V8s, they don't wear to the point of needing rebuilt, and there's no need to waste money on stroking even the 6.2L, though it is easy if you have mega $$. To date I've owned a half dozen of these engines, all well over 100,000 miles, and all still had the crosshatch, from honing, easily visible in all of every cylinder. Sure, most need valveseals, but that's part of installing the set of new Z06 or Comp 26918 springs for whatever cam you like.
Do the seals, the thing's ready for another 100,000 miles.
The iron-block truck versions are plentiful and therefore cheap, only 65 # heavier than aluminum-block, and 4.8L versions are going for $300, 5.3L are around $500, and 6.0L starts at $800.
'07-up have better heads and beefier rods, but most are 58x rather than 24x (crank reluctor) But don't use pre-'01. In fact, every one of mine have been '01s. The early 4.8s are good to 7500 RPM with appropriate valvetrain upgrades. All are safe past 6500 RPM. Try to get #799 or #243 heads if getting a later 5.3, and the later 6.0L heads may have the rectangular-port (intake) heads that flow better but reduce off-idle torque. That's the way to go for cost-effective NA power.
Combining LSx power with 4-cylinder gearing is a fail, plan on a T56, or a T5-WC from an '88-'92 Camaro V8 if NA 4.8L, ( TBI was 0.63:1 fifth, TPI was o.73:1, but 0.59:1 and HD 0.80:1 both exist) and for differential gearing, if your Toy / Sub diff doesn't offer a ratio around 3.5:1, then plan on an aluminum Ford 8.8" from a mid-'00s Shelby Mustang Cobra. You'll never break that. Ratios range from 2.47:1 well into the 5s. And more different types of traction diffs than anyone could want.
Any pure-stock LSx can happily pull a 1500 RPM cruise at 65 MPH in these cars, and the T56 offers a 0.5:1 sixth to help. You can combine that with either a 2.66:1 or 2.97:1 first, try for a combined first gear in the 9.00:1 - 10.00:1 range, for rear tires around 26" overall. If you're closer to 25", then calculate accordingly. Bigger cams will need more RPM at cruise, even after a good dyno-tune.
That's part of why I like the '01-'06, they use the #0411 PCM that was figured out long ago, so tuning is cheap and easy, but it can do anything and everything you really need.

[mkivalex]

Originally Posted by Suprastar

That's one of the better aspects of the LSx V8s, they don't wear to the point of needing rebuilt, and there's no need to waste money on stroking even the 6.2L, though it is easy if you have mega $$. To date I've owned a half dozen of these engines, all well over 100,000 miles, and all still had the crosshatch, from honing, easily visible in all of every cylinder. Sure, most need valveseals, but that's part of installing the set of new Z06 or Comp 26918 springs for whatever cam you like.
Do the seals, the thing's ready for another 100,000 miles.
The iron-block truck versions are plentiful and therefore cheap, only 65 # heavier than aluminum-block, and 4.8L versions are going for $300, 5.3L are around $500, and 6.0L starts at $800.
'07-up have better heads and beefier rods, but most are 58x rather than 24x (crank reluctor) But don't use pre-'01. In fact, every one of mine have been '01s. The early 4.8s are good to 7500 RPM with appropriate valvetrain upgrades. All are safe past 6500 RPM. Try to get #799 or #243 heads if getting a later 5.3, and the later 6.0L heads may have the rectangular-port (intake) heads that flow better but reduce off-idle torque. That's the way to go for cost-effective NA power.
Combining LSx power with 4-cylinder gearing is a fail, plan on a T56, or a T5-WC from an '88-'92 Camaro V8 if NA 4.8L, ( TBI was 0.63:1 fifth, TPI was o.73:1, but 0.59:1 and HD 0.80:1 both exist) and for differential gearing, if your Toy / Sub diff doesn't offer a ratio around 3.5:1, then plan on an aluminum Ford 8.8" from a mid-'00s Shelby Mustang Cobra. You'll never break that. Ratios range from 2.47:1 well into the 5s. And more different types of traction diffs than anyone could want.
Any pure-stock LSx can happily pull a 1500 RPM cruise at 65 MPH in these cars, and the T56 offers a 0.5:1 sixth to help. You can combine that with either a 2.66:1 or 2.97:1 first, try for a combined first gear in the 9.00:1 - 10.00:1 range, for rear tires around 26" overall. If you're closer to 25", then calculate accordingly. Bigger cams will need more RPM at cruise, even after a good dyno-tune.
That's part of why I like the '01-'06, they use the #0411 PCM that was figured out long ago, so tuning is cheap and easy, but it can do anything and everything you really need.

Great post!

[SON1C]

Sub

[Jesse@JDLAutodesign]

Another victim...

[Deadpool_25]

Originally Posted by Jesse@JDLAutodesign

Another victim...

Saw this yesterday when I stopped by to pick up my header. That car is sexy from the top or bottom. I know what I'm doing if I ever blow up my FA20. Lol. Nice to meet you, Jesse.

[BRZR1]

Looks like an octupus is hiding in your engine bay!

[shu5892001]

Wouldn't the header melt all the plastic stuff beside it?

[inertia]

@Jesse@JDLAutodesign any more info on that build?

[Fernan Andrade]

@AZFA20 Did you upgrade your heads and cam? I am trying to decide which heads, cam, and intake to go for.

[AZFA20]

Originally Posted by Fernan Andrade

@AZFA20 Did you upgrade your heads and cam? I am trying to decide which heads, cam, and intake to go for.

I have TrickFlow heads, FAST 102mm intake manifold, TrickFlow cam, and a lot of other go fast goodies all on the shelf waiting to go in soon.

Really it all depends on your budget and goals as far as recommendations go.